Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build

Thanks for the response Kraze. Looks like they should work. I'm trying to tuck them as tight as I can into the rack to decrease the chances of them getting snagged on something. I think i'm going to run mounting brackets on the inside edge of the rack tubing which should suck them into the sides almost flush. May stick off the sides an inch at most. There is only 1.5" of space between the side tubes on the rack so hopefully I can suck them in enough to wedge the lights between them.
 
Output pics of the Blitzpro lights here: (not mine)

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/121991-4runnin-tahoes-build-thread-6.html#post1473657

And Yes, I mounted mine without the bracket. I just welded tabs on the roof rack that the light's screws pass through. Only pic I have:

PICT1877_zpsd3ee407c.jpg~original
 
Output pics of the Blitzpro lights here: (not mine)

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/121991-4runnin-tahoes-build-thread-6.html#post1473657

And Yes, I mounted mine without the bracket. I just welded tabs on the roof rack that the light's screws pass through. Only pic I have:

PICT1877_zpsd3ee407c.jpg~original

Thanks Bandit.

Thats exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully it won't be too bad having one hooked to my reverse lights. Ordered up 4 of them today. One for the tire carrier hooked to my back up light circuit and 3 on the roof rack. One on each side and one in the back center for when you need some perimeter lighting. :thumb:
 
Haven't updated this thread in a while.

I finally got the new diffs installed and the 4.88's are feeling awesome. The power seems to be mostly back now. Still don't know how my mileage will be affected but I'm not hoping for much if any improvement...

I'm heading to Hollister Sunday just to test everything out and put the trutrac in the front to work and purposefully try to get stuck to see how it works out.

If anyone is up to go, I will be out there with Drew on Sunday morning about 9-9:30am.
 
I think the beadlocks are working well. :clap2:



Ran them at 8lbs today at hollister and they hooked great.
 
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Went out to Hollister again for a little Ham radio fest with some of the 120 guys. Had my buddy along taking pictures and my brother came too. Good times for sure and only minor fender damage from coming down on the drivers side front corner of the bumper and it deflecting in to the fender molding.





























Here was the view on the way up to the top.



And one of his edited shots. Hopefully he does a few more of them.

 
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Ah that sucks... yup twice as far as me. I'm at around 80 miles or so. Lame. Well, you guys and Robert need to plan something that will work for the three of you so we can do some snow wheeling and camping! Let me know!
 
For sure Rob. I know we keep talking about it. Just timing is always off with being able to get out of town.

I will need to see if I can jam out there for a couple days sometime soon.
 
Ah that sucks... yup twice as far as me. I'm at around 80 miles or so. Lame. Well, you guys and Robert need to plan something that will work for the three of you so we can do some snow wheeling and camping! Let me know!

For sure Rob. I know we keep talking about it. Just timing is always off with being able to get out of town.

I will need to see if I can jam out there for a couple days sometime soon.
Ive never been to the snow before! I want to go so bad!!!!!!
 
So I am in a bit of a pickle... While up in tahoe wheelin with Drew, I had the unfortunate pleasure of somehow pulling the upper mounting stud out of the top cap of my right side rear shock on the Rubicon... Upon inspection, it pulled out and the shock somehow smacked the Schrader valve snapping off the head which intern lost all nitrogen pressure. When I looked at the mounting hole, it somehow became knotched out creating a pocket for the stud to fall in to and get caught. I have noticed, that when fully articulated, the stud had a ton of lateral force on it which in turn probably wallowed out the hole and created the pocket out of the need for more movement.







I came to the realization that for my particular setup, the stud top design may not be the most optimal installation method...

Now my questions is: What are my options for a better more reliable setup? :confused:

My first thought was to swap out the stud top caps for bearing type with a through bolt mounting. Only concern there is that I would lose an inch of uptravel (but I guess I would gain an inch of down travel so I wouldn't really lose anything, except that I already have limited uptravel before the bump stops hit).

Second was outboarding the shocks, but I have a feeling that with how much my axle swings when articulated, I wouldn't have enough room between the tire and frame to mount them without serious clearance issues.

Third was to consider a rear mounted shock setup like 4wheel underground's. Which in turn would double as a coilover mount if I ever decide to take the next step and pull the springs completely. One less step down the road.

4Link_119b.JPG~original


4Link_120b.JPG~original


Rear_Coilover_Mounts_002b.JPG~original


Rear Coilover Mounting

But then I started looking at the rear of the axle and have a feeling that the panhard, e brake cables, Brake lines, etc, all would be a huge headache to make work because everything is so tight. And because I don't think that would leave room to run my proposed swing down gas can holder/skid for the spare tire area.

Fourth and maybe the most cost efficient and practical option, replace the top cap like for like, weld a 1/4" thick washer over the wallowed out hole, and remount the shocks as they were before and install limit straps and cross my fingers that the studs won't be a problem again. Using something like this

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FIXIT.html

fixitweld.jpg~original


So that brings me to the open forum section of this dilema. What would be the best option at this point???
 
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