Custom Gobi Stealth Rack

C

CombatWombat

New member
I've searched the forum for this but haven't had any luck so far. I'm looking to get a custom Gobi Stealth rack for my 2014 TE. I'd like to install a 40" single row LED bar (not sure if i want a curved one or a straight one). I want the "rise" on the front to be as low as possible....if possible I'd like it to be level with the rails on the other sides.

Has anyone seen this done before? Anyone have any pics?

DesertDawg, if you're reading, how do you like your curved bar?

Thanks!
 
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Gobi will make it the way you want. Just let them know which bar you're using and how you want it and you should be good to go.
 
I have a custom Gobi made to put a 40" LED bar.

I ordered through Trail Duty

Make sure you specify what you want and they will make it happen.

Also, Gobi did not charge me for this "custom" work.
 
CombatWombat said:
I've searched the forum for this but haven't had any luck so far. I'm looking to get a custom Gobi Stealth rack for my 2014 TE. I'd like to install a 40" single row LED bar (not sure if i want a curved one or a straight one). I want the "rise" on the front to be as low as possible....if possible I'd like it to be level with the rails on the other sides.

Has anyone seen this done before? Anyone have any pics?

DesertDawg, if you're reading, how do you like your curved bar?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I really like the curved light bar a lot; IMHO, looks a lot better than the completely straight light bars as it's more integrated (especially since it follows the curved lines of the windsheild and Gobi wind deflector), but also gives a lot more peripheral coverage too.
 
Desert Dawg said:
It is a Night Stalker 40-inch Curved CREE 240W Light bar with combination dual row LEDs. I purchased mine through Desert Rat Offroad.
Click to expand...

Desert Dawg -

You've done an awesome job modding your 4Runner.

How would you rate the quality of the light? Desert Rat offers this bar at 479.00 whereas Rigid's cheapest option sells for 949.00 -- a huge price difference b/w the two.
 
TK-421 said:
Desert Dawg -

You've done an awesome job modding your 4Runner.

How would you rate the quality of the light? Desert Rat offers this bar at 479.00 whereas Rigid's cheapest option sells for 949.00 -- a huge price difference b/w the two.
Click to expand...

Thanks TK!

So far, the quality seems to be very good. The biggest difference I found is that I think the Rigid housings are built better but that is not to say the Night Stalker is not well built. But the light bar really puts out the lumens and has worked flawlessy; I have used it a lot for off-roading even during the day to make sure people see me coming around bends and over hills. And at night, it really makes a huge difference. For the price difference, I thought it was worth a try and so far I am pretty happy.



With just the Rigid D2s:



With the Night Stalker LED Light Bar:





 
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Desert Dawg -

Thanks.

I'm a firm believer that you get what you pay for, but you said it best -- "for the price difference, I thought it was worth a try..."

I'm not trying to skimp, nor do I want to break the bank w/ this mod, but the price difference is significant and build quality on the "Nightstalker" seems adequate for my needs.

It seems like you found a solid alternative to Rigid, I'm going to give it a try.
 
[MENTION=107769]Desert Dawg[/MENTION], How do you get it to swing between the Gobi and TRD logos? Is that one of them there meeragee things with the light angles? :confused: :behindsofa:
 
3wbdriver said:
[MENTION=107769]Desert Dawg[/MENTION], How do you get it to swing between the Gobi and TRD logos? Is that one of them there meeragee things with the light angles? :confused: :behindsofa:
Click to expand...

Yeah, the desert heat really play tricks with your mind...lol. I actually drive a Suzuki Samurai but at certain angles and temperature it looks like a 4Runner.
 
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Desert Dawg said:
Yeah, the desert heat really play tricks with your mind...lol. I actually drive a Suzuki Samurai but at certain angles and temperature it looks like a 4Runner.
Click to expand...

I do think that this is a very slcik and intergrated setup. Yet, I would have some concerns. IE having to stay at a hotel durig a multi day trip or the such and someone unscrewing your lightbar. From what I can tell you are using regular screww and nuts to mount. If so are there antitheft type nuts and screws that need an adapter to remove?

Also with the rack and light bar, how protected is it. IE driving through a hevily forested area and a branch swinging into it. Normally with my previous rack lights, though HID or Halogen, they where nestled into the rack a,little and prtected by a bar.

Wiring, did you run the wiring through the outside channel and pillar or go through the roof with a , heck dont know wha it is called yet for th lack ofhe prper term a through the roof adapter.

I alos hate typing long replies on Ipad mini excuse the bambled mess I made,
 
Doc_Fry said:
I do think that this is a very slcik and intergrated setup. Yet, I would have some concerns. IE having to stay at a hotel durig a multi day trip or the such and someone unscrewing your lightbar. From what I can tell you are using regular screww and nuts to mount. If so are there antitheft type nuts and screws that need an adapter to remove?

Also with the rack and light bar, how protected is it. IE driving through a hevily forested area and a branch swinging into it. Normally with my previous rack lights, though HID or Halogen, they where nestled into the rack a,little and prtected by a bar.

Wiring, did you run the wiring through the outside channel and pillar or go through the roof with a , heck dont know wha it is called yet for th lack ofhe prper term a through the roof adapter.

I alos hate typing long replies on Ipad mini excuse the bambled mess I made,
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have to replace the regular srews and nuts with the antitheft style but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I will think about ordering them after I get stuff stolen...lol.

The light bar sits below the top of the rack a bit, but totally in front of it. I have gone through juniper and such with no issue but doubt it would take a direct hit from a thick tree branch. For most of my off-roading, that really hasn't been an issue though.

I ran the power and ground wiring through the weather stripping on both sides of the windsheild along the A-pillars. I also used dsconnects at the top and bottom so if I ever have to replace the windsheild it's an easy fix.
 
[QUOTE
I ran the power and ground wiring through the weather stripping on both sides of the windsheild along the A-pillars. I also used dsconnects at the top and bottom so if I ever have to replace the windsheild it's an easy fix.[/QUOTE]

From your pics you cant even tell you pulled up the weather strip, was it a friction fit or did you use foam tape to reinstall? Also did you fish the wire from above or from the engine bay? Great idea for the disconnects
 
2chains said:
From your pics you cant even tell you pulled up the weather strip, was it a friction fit or did you use foam tape to reinstall? Also did you fish the wire from above or from the engine bay? Great idea for the disconnects
Click to expand...

I pulled the weather stripping up at the roof channel to pull the wire from the windsheild and make the disconnect that then got covered in wire loom. I used 3M double sided automotive tape to reseal the weather stripping back to the roof (much like how the factory attached the end of the roof weather stripping). The wire along the windsheild was pressed into and under the windsheild weather stripping so did not have to pull it out. Once under the hood, I made another disconnect.

Check out the photos that [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] posted (Post #239) in my build thread that best show how he did his and is the way I did mine:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/168993-desert-dawg-build-what-switch-16.html

Here you can see the discoonect:



 
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