cv axel
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ovrrdrive
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You don't need a 54mm socket as the rotor doesn't need to come off. The CV is held into the hub with a clip and a bolt in the end. Once you remove both of those and the 8 or so nuts that bolt it to the diff it will come out. If you can't get clearance enough to slide out you may want to unbolt the lower ball joint. Simply unbolting it and re-bolting it should be able to be done without an alignment but it would still be a good idea to at least have it checked after the job.
You can knock the studs out of the diff and either grind down the flange or replace with grade 8 bolts to make the job easier next time. Then you wouldn't have to worry about the lower ball joint to get clearance.
When I did mine I was also doing a lift and had the spindles apart so I don't know exactly what to expect doing it with everything intact. I do know that the Autozone $69 remanufactured CV's have a no questions asked lifetime warranty though. I used that when installing mine as I screwed up one of the boots. They handed me another no problems.
Your biggest challenge is going to be removing the cone washers to get the hub off. You need to remove the hubs to get at the snap ring and washer unless you just happen to have the correct tools laying around and more talent than I have. I just used a ton of PB Blaster and heat first then a socket and extension and tapping on the end of the bolt about 20 times to get them out. Here's a few pics showing the nut in the end of the CV and the steps I used to get the hub off...
Good luck with it... It really isn't that bad of a job. It helps to have the FSM printed out beside you though.
You can knock the studs out of the diff and either grind down the flange or replace with grade 8 bolts to make the job easier next time. Then you wouldn't have to worry about the lower ball joint to get clearance.
When I did mine I was also doing a lift and had the spindles apart so I don't know exactly what to expect doing it with everything intact. I do know that the Autozone $69 remanufactured CV's have a no questions asked lifetime warranty though. I used that when installing mine as I screwed up one of the boots. They handed me another no problems.
Your biggest challenge is going to be removing the cone washers to get the hub off. You need to remove the hubs to get at the snap ring and washer unless you just happen to have the correct tools laying around and more talent than I have. I just used a ton of PB Blaster and heat first then a socket and extension and tapping on the end of the bolt about 20 times to get them out. Here's a few pics showing the nut in the end of the CV and the steps I used to get the hub off...
Good luck with it... It really isn't that bad of a job. It helps to have the FSM printed out beside you though.
4R_in_Uzb
New member
Thanks, ovrrdrive!!
It helps a lot!
The cone washers were not a problem at all, don't know why... I don't have hubs, only flanges so I used two bolts to screw them into the flange to push it away.
So what I need to do is just take off the clip and the bolt at the end, huhh?
Thanks, that makes it a lot easier.
It helps a lot!
The cone washers were not a problem at all, don't know why... I don't have hubs, only flanges so I used two bolts to screw them into the flange to push it away.
So what I need to do is just take off the clip and the bolt at the end, huhh?
Thanks, that makes it a lot easier.
ovrrdrive
New member
The bolt and the clip are the only things that hold the CV to the hub. Take those and the 8 nuts off the other end and you can start trying to wiggle the CV out.
Seems liek I remember guys saying they have better luck getting it out by jacking under the lower control arm a little. The CV will compress some in the middle but can be a pain in the ass to get compressed far enough to actually get it out.
If worse comes to worse, remove the 4 bolts holing the lower ball joint and swing out the spindle assembly to gain room.
I guess you havd the ADD system on your truck that eliminates the hubs. While that makes a job like this easier you should consider doing the manual hub conversion to save wear on the Cv's and gas mileage.
Seems liek I remember guys saying they have better luck getting it out by jacking under the lower control arm a little. The CV will compress some in the middle but can be a pain in the ass to get compressed far enough to actually get it out.
If worse comes to worse, remove the 4 bolts holing the lower ball joint and swing out the spindle assembly to gain room.
I guess you havd the ADD system on your truck that eliminates the hubs. While that makes a job like this easier you should consider doing the manual hub conversion to save wear on the Cv's and gas mileage.
4R_in_Uzb
New member
ooo... more problems...
guys, and ovrrdrive especially, thanks for your advice and pictures..
there things are right now, the CV's came off but I saw a frightenning picture there.. first thing I noticed was that I lost three of the six metal balls, of course the rubber boots were damaged, tha driva shaft then disconnected from the outer joint and also disconnected from the inborad join tulip.
the tripod joint was all frozen up, the bearings (thos funny rounded ones) didn not spin and were all dirty and slightly rusted on the inside.
I cleaned them and they spin now.
I still haven't unscerwed the six or eight bolts of the inborad joint tulip. Acxios to see what is happening there.
That's only driver's side, the other side seems to be in a slightly better condition.
Any recommendations you can give me?
guys, and ovrrdrive especially, thanks for your advice and pictures..
there things are right now, the CV's came off but I saw a frightenning picture there.. first thing I noticed was that I lost three of the six metal balls, of course the rubber boots were damaged, tha driva shaft then disconnected from the outer joint and also disconnected from the inborad join tulip.
the tripod joint was all frozen up, the bearings (thos funny rounded ones) didn not spin and were all dirty and slightly rusted on the inside.
I cleaned them and they spin now.
I still haven't unscerwed the six or eight bolts of the inborad joint tulip. Acxios to see what is happening there.
That's only driver's side, the other side seems to be in a slightly better condition.
Any recommendations you can give me?
