CV Axle flange bolts and nuts

THOR_runner

New member
86 4runner dlx auto 22re. Attempted to change a busted cv axle this weekend and I couldn't get the inner flange past the bolts on the diff flange. Can I pound the 6 bolts out of the diff flange (the right way with the nut still on with a brass punch) and the reuse them when I put the new axle on? If not, how do I get enough room to remove the axle? I'm sure there are some bolts on or around the hub that when removed make this job easier, but I'd prefer pounding out the bolts from the diff flange.

Thanks in advance
THORrunner
 
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You've got a couple options. Some guys like to pop the upper ball joint so they can shove the spindle out enough to clear those studs. Others like to pound them out, and that's my preference too. I like that better because once they're out I replace them with bolts which makes replacing the CV on the trail so much easier.
 
PO must have changed them from studs to bolts because they're bolts. I can still pop them out though, right?

Factory ones are technically bolts (have a bolt head) but are splined so they are like studs and aren't removed. I knocked all of mine out and then simply ground off the splines to work more like bolts. Didn't feel like finding and paying for that many grade 8's. Having them removable is really nice.....made changing side oil seal or cv boots, much easier and faster.
 
I guess I'll find out if they're splined when I remove them tomorrow. If they are splined when I remove them can I put them back in without grinding down the splines. It's not a trail rig (yet) so I don't need a quick and easy trail method of removal.
 
I ground down the splines also(Thanks for the tip Hyde). I left a little on so they hold snugly but can still be pushed out by hand.
 

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IME steering stops make a nasty groaning screech, not a rattling clunk like that. If you want to be sure, smear some AP grease on them and see if your noise goes away.
 

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