HELP Im out of ideas and about to lose it. The problem: I replaced both cv axles on my 99 4RR SR5 with ones from o'reillys, because both boots were gone, and I'm 90% sure they were the original axles. i did this by removing the 4 bolts from the lower control arm and the steering knuckle to get access and room to get the old ones out. after putting everything back together the popping and clicking is worse then before but only when driving strait and haven't heard it pop once when turning. also now there is a new sound when i go over bumps like something is loose or something is hitting the undercarriage. the new sound; however, is random at high speeds, but is easy to duplicate going over things like speed bumps, pot holes, and what not at slow speed. i can not duplicate the sound however by shaking or bouncing the car by hand. before everyones starts in on me about it be the suspension fully extending or locking out, its not that. this sound started after replacing the cv axles and I'm not doing anything to fully extend the or lock out the suspension. it kinda sounds like maybe the cv axles are pulling out and being pushed back in, but i checked and everything is tight. I have read everything I could find but nothing is helping, so i'm asking y'all is there anything that would cause this sound I'm not apposed to the idea i got two bad cv axles but would like to cover all my bases before I pull them out again. any help is greatly appreciated.
CV Axle Replacement and clunk pop sound
- Thread starter wayfinch
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Atomic6
New member
Did you remove the snap-ring from the original CV's and install them on the new CVs?
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I am yet to replace CV joints myself but if you had described those symptoms to me without knowing the history I would have checked the ball joints first, both upper and lower. Do you know if they have ever been replaced, they fail quicker than CV joints historically and can make the same sort of noises you describe.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Lower no, upper, yes.
The best test I know of is to jack up the front end and grasp the tire at the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and push/pull it back and forth. Do this for both tires. If there's any play your ball joints are bad. If solid, keep looking elsewhere.
The best test I know of is to jack up the front end and grasp the tire at the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and push/pull it back and forth. Do this for both tires. If there's any play your ball joints are bad. If solid, keep looking elsewhere.
stir_fry_boy
New member
The 36 mm bolt under the hub cover tight on both ends?
I torqued them down, but haven't checked them. I replaced the axles Friday night, was going to check them tomorrow. Is the supposed to be any play on axle inputs with them insert into the front diff. Cause I can grab the tuplip and it has play in all directions. Is that normal and Im not talking about the shaft In between the two boots.
Yes I'm lifted toytec 2.5 "in the front with 1" diff drop and 3" in the rear but It's been lifted for over a year and never made this sound till now.
Yes I'm lifted toytec 2.5 "in the front with 1" diff drop and 3" in the rear but It's been lifted for over a year and never made this sound till now.
fourfive
Senior Member
It sounds like the diff side of your axle isn't completely seated into the diff. When I replaced mine, I actually had to gently but firmly hammer the hub side of the axle using a 3lb plastic hammer (making sure the CV axle was as level and straight as possible). I put the axle in the diff as much as I could just using my hands but was not able to apply enough force to get it all the way in. Once I had the axle fully seated using the 3lb plastic hammer, I was not able to pull it back out by grabbing the tulip. I have a picture of how I did it floating around somewhere that I'll try to find.
stir_fry_boy
New member
Agree with fourfive. The snap rings hold in the tulip and associated splines into the diff. Sounds like the axle isn't completely in the diff.
You can use a rubber mallet, but I hold the axle completely straight, then come out about 1.5" (splines are still in the diff) with the axle and straight back in applying a little force with going in. Sometimes it takes a few hits to go in. Goes in every time.
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So the hub nuts are tight, and I reseated both axles just to make sure. however I should be more clear about the play at the diff; there is no play in and out of the diff just up down left and right. I can grab the tulip and move it (shake it) with about an
1/8" play but can't pull it in an out. if that makes sense.
Also just noticed that the steering arm boot on the passenger side is completely torn. Would this cause any of the fore mentioned issues besides just needing to be replaced. also can I just put a new boot on, or is there anything I need to check that the boot being torn could have messed up.
As for the ball joints there is no play that I can tell by moving the tire but looking at them the boots looked shot all around and defiantly have no grease in them. So with that said I'm going to replace them, can anyone recommend a brand.
Finally could the transmission and/or the motor mounts cause the sounds, and if so what is the best way to test the motor mounts with a 5sp. What's the tolerance for motor movement. thanks for all y'alls help, and free to keep the suggestions coming.
1/8" play but can't pull it in an out. if that makes sense.
Also just noticed that the steering arm boot on the passenger side is completely torn. Would this cause any of the fore mentioned issues besides just needing to be replaced. also can I just put a new boot on, or is there anything I need to check that the boot being torn could have messed up.
As for the ball joints there is no play that I can tell by moving the tire but looking at them the boots looked shot all around and defiantly have no grease in them. So with that said I'm going to replace them, can anyone recommend a brand.
Finally could the transmission and/or the motor mounts cause the sounds, and if so what is the best way to test the motor mounts with a 5sp. What's the tolerance for motor movement. thanks for all y'alls help, and free to keep the suggestions coming.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Lower ball joints should always be replaced with Toyota ones. These are a serious safety issue and with yours having no grease yet I think you might have dodged a bullet. When they run out of grease they tend to seize and then snap in half. Some 4Runners had a recall back in the day to fix them because it can cause some major accidents if moving at high speeds.
If the boot on the steering arm is torn then check the inner tie rod. If trying to wiggle the tire did not show any play a new boot should work just fine. Just inspect first to make sure no dirt/sand got in the ball joint on the tie rod.
"UPDATE" So I took back the O'Reilly CV axles, and replaced them with NAPA CV's; the problem is still there. This leads me to believe that its not the axles; unless, I got 4 bad axles back to back. I'm replacing the ball joints, and the steering tie rod ends on the
22nd I would do it sooner but don't have the time. being that I'm swapping the steering tie rods will I need alignment. I assume I do, but just want to make sure.
I'm also thinking about swapping the motor and tranny mounts as well. the tranny looks straight forward with swapping its mount. As for the motor mounts not so much; are there any tricks, things I will need, and/or any other help advice y'all have that could make life easier when swapping them out. Thanks for your help in advance.
P.S. still open to suggestions as to where the sound/issue is.
22nd I would do it sooner but don't have the time. being that I'm swapping the steering tie rods will I need alignment. I assume I do, but just want to make sure.
I'm also thinking about swapping the motor and tranny mounts as well. the tranny looks straight forward with swapping its mount. As for the motor mounts not so much; are there any tricks, things I will need, and/or any other help advice y'all have that could make life easier when swapping them out. Thanks for your help in advance.
P.S. still open to suggestions as to where the sound/issue is.
dozerfrelich
New member
Sounds to me like your outer front diff. Bearing is shot if you can move it up and down but not in and out. With the front wheel off the ground when you spin the axle can you hear a grinding noise?
No grinding that I could hear, but I also wasn't listening for it. I'll check when I get off work to day. Also when I swapped the axles Friday I checked for play: on the drivers side there is very little to no play, but the passenger side has enough play that I can shake it, and enough play in and out of the diff. that I can move it by about 1/4" each way. the C ring is attached and I fully seated it. To me that just seems like a lot of play, I could be wrong what's your opinion.
dozerfrelich
New member
If still have to original cv I would snag the snap rings off them and swap them out. I had an issue on a different car like that where they wouldn't stay seated. If you have play up and down in the cv at the diff. Then you have a bearing going out or the splines in the diff are stripped out. Pull the cv back out and feel with you hand inside the diff end and see if you can feel it moving up or down and in and out
Ok sounds good I'll do this on the 22nd when have every thing torn apart already, and let you all know what I find. If the bearing is going out or the splines are gone; what am I looking at to replace them money and manpower wise. I'll be able to do the work myself; more just wondering if its a multiple day job.
dozerfrelich
New member
I would say a good day worth to rebuild it but that's just me.
