CV Axle Replacement - Last-Minute Question

[ted4r]

Hi Folks,

I've read the write ups (2 bolts, 2 nuts) and watched the videos (Hello Toyota Friend!) and I had a couple final questions before I dive in...

First - I have a V8 and no air gun - do I need a helper to sit in the car and push the brakes if I plan on tackling this with a breaker bar?

Second - how much gear oil seeps outafter the CV is removed? A tablespoon or so?

Third - everyone references slot/tab down (or up - some disagreement there) - what is this that they are referring to? The slot in the retainer ring?

Dealer wants $1,100 for one CV replacement or $740 to reboot one boot (inner drivers) - unbelievable. Local axle shop wants $85 and I buy the replacement, but I'm not sure I trust them to be careful with the seals so I am going to do it myself and make sure it is done right.

Thanks!

 

[ted4r]

PS - If there were anyone in the greater VA/MD/Washington DC area who has done this before wouldn't mind walking me through today or tomorrow, I'd be thoroughly appreciative and would bring beer, BBQ, you name it!

 

[Johnny4runner]

For #1 you can take the center cap off your wheel and put the wheel back on the hub—lower to the ground and it won’t move. Or put in 4 wheel drive and leave the other 3 wheels on the ground.

#2, more than a tablespoon for me, and I had drained the front diff already. Might depend on how the truck is sitting.

#3, the retaining ring on the inside stub. Up or down when you insert the shaft. Didn’t seem to make a difference for me. I pounded the shaft with a mallet and turned it a few times—eventually went in.

Best, J4R

 

[Falcon3]

Johnny4runner's right on-

Take the wheel off, take the cover off, put the wheel back on, lower the truck so the wheel is touching the ground, use your breaker bar to remove the axle nut.

I lost about a cup of fluid give or take. It helps if you have the open side jacked up so it tilts away from the opening.

I did it hole in the ring pointed down. Seems the physics of the retention spring would indicate that either way up or down should be fine.

Sorry, I live across the country from you, but good luck! Take your time- the worst part for me was trying to seat a new axle seal in there.

 

[ted4r]

Thanks Folks, great info. I am skipping the seals and am just going to go slow and deliberately. Fortunately I only have to do one

I am using a NAPA new replacement, seems pretty decent quality and folks seem to like them. My current (factory) one isn't clicking yet so I will probably reboot it and use it as a spare.

 

[TowMeOut]

Do the seals!! If your truck already has more than 100K and you've already got the axle out then replace the seal. For the labor involved it's crazy not to and they're pretty cheap. Make sure you have an extra knuckle seal (or 3) handy because those tend to get snagged by the splined end if you don't have a helper.

An "axle shop" does this for a living so I don't know the prices you were quoted. Sounds like you're "on the fence" about this repair and it's kind of a pain in the butt, even with the right tools.

I didn't have a proper puller to pop the shaft out of the differential. I tried prybar/crowbar method and it was no go for me. I finally made a "puller" from a loop of steel cable, a huge clevis, and a big hammer. Basically I looped the cable around the end of the "cup" on the CV shaft. The cable I had was just small enough to squeeze in between the cup and the metal disc that protects the oil seal (don't know what that's called). Either way, a couple of swings and it popped right out.

Good luck

 

[ZebRuaj]

4lb hammer and a selection of bigger chisels helped get it out of the front diff.

Service manual page DS-9 says to coat the inboard axle splines (ATF) and have the retaining clip facing down for install.

Couple firm pushes and it went back in for me.

With #2, its a good time to drain the front diff and change out the fluid if it hasn't been done in awhile. Limits the worry about what's going to come out when you yank the half shaft out.

 

[Caldizzle]

FWIW I would have a torch handy. My passenger side nut came off very easy, but the drivers side wouldn't budge, even with a 1/2" breaker bar with two jack handle extensions! Hit it with the torch for a few minutes and it came right off no problem.

I also messed up the knuckle seal spring when I was pounding the new ones in. Just swapped the spring off the old one onto the new one and corrected myself. I know you say you are skipping these, but if you change your mind it is just something to note.

 

[Billynath1988]

if you shove the biggest screwdriver that will fit through the rotor slots ontop of the caliper you should be able to break the axle nut loose.. Pb blast it a little if needed.

 

[4x4mike]

There is some good info here on this job. I too have to do this on my '07 V8 and had a question about part numbers. I haven't found consistent part numbers for the diff seals. I know the seals are different but what are the part numbers?

Are there any other seals to purchase? Hoping this helps. Thanks.

 

[CrimsonCountry]

There is some good info here on this job. I too have to do this on my '07 V8 and had a question about part numbers. I haven't found consistent part numbers for the diff seals. I know the seals are different but what are the part numbers?

Are there any other seals to purchase? Hoping this helps. Thanks.

Only other seals are the knuckle seals on the outboard CV side. I had to swap out both hubs too since my bearings were roaring so did both CVs/diff seals as well as the hubs and their seals. I also had the best luck with c-clip opening on the bottom and CVs went in with a 5lb hammer/pry bar combo (same for removal). Very easy job. Worst part for me was seating the knuckle seals.

2" PVC pipe works perfect for seating both diff seals (pretty sure I read that here somewhere). I ended up using the axle dust cap along with precise strikes from a chisel to seat the knuckle seals (mine were very stubborn).

FYI, I was initially cautious when I first tried to remove the diff seals but quickly learned they need tough love. Just get a longer lever/pry bar while making sure not to score the diff interior and it pops right out.

My only regret is not changing out the needle bearing while I was in there with the ECGS replacement.

P/N:
National 510573 x 2 (knuckle seals)
Toyota 90311-47027 x 1
Toyota 90311-47013 x 1

 

[Billynath1988]

also DO YOURSELF A FAVOR.. and carefully remove the abs sensor before you do this.. I know some will say you dont have to.. and you dont "Have to". Ive done it with no problem without removing it. However, the last time I rebooted somehow either debris or the axle just nicked the sensor which caused pieces of it to break off in the sensor track of the hub, which melted and ruined the hub.. after reinstalling and ive been chasing the Christmas tree of lights ever since.. ..

to rule out the obvious ive already replaces the harness with OEM
Replaced the sensor twice

Waiting on the hub assembly to fix it for good. .