CV bind. How much is too much?

phatcheeks

phatcheeks

New member
I tested to see if my CVs were binding becuase Im lifted now. so I jack the car up one side at a time. Passenger side spun freely. Driver side spun, but I can hear it getting caught on the joint (binding). Its nothing crazy. I can still push pass it with ease and If I spin hard enough it will spin through the bind with just the weight of the wheel and tire. But not as freely as the passenger side.
If I jack it up from the LCA the bind goes away.
I have a 1/4 spacer on the drivers side. Is it worth removing or will I not face any problems with this? Lift has only been on for 5 days so maybe the springs will settle enough for the bind to go away.

Axles are OEM as far as I know.

Will a diff drop help in this case?
Should I be worried?
Havent got it aligned yet either. Will alignment change the position of the axle to help alleviate the bind?
Am I trippin?

Both front sides measure about 38 1/8" from ground to fender.

OME 885/895 and Eibach shocks. JBA UCAs

Drivers side
5O0RLN6.jpg


Passenger Side
OaUpkuf.jpg
 
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Ur 1/4 spacer wont effect the cv angle much, you need to drop diff to correct angle, or u risk detonation of CV joints at full suspension extension, especially when wheels are turned at full extension. If coil overs are adjustable you can also lower front end a bit.... but that wont help at full extension. Dan's Drive Line (las vegas they work on alot of offroad and race vehicles) recondmends 17⁰ or less for best function of and CV joint
 
Also would remove spacer anyways, with spacer only on one side you through off suspension and steering geometry, through off ur allignment and tear your tires up
 
I dunno. I keep reading that diff drops dont do much for the 4th gen.

I think the spacer will help with geometry since everything is level now. Without the spacer it will be leaning towards the drives side. Many people use it without alignment issues. Even the fj front springs come in different lengths to accommodate lean.
 
Diff drop is only an inch, if you’re just barely binding it may be just the fix you need. They’re not very expensive and as long as you have a jack you can install it yourself. May be worth a shot


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montijo505 said:
Diff drop is only an inch, if you’re just barely binding it may be just the fix you need. They’re not very expensive and as long as you have a jack you can install it yourself. May be worth a shot


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Click to expand...

I bought one from Wheeler's just in case. Should be coming in couple days. Getting my alignment done today too, maybe that might change some angles for the better, because my alignment is kinda jacked up right now after the lift.

I think I should be fine for now as long as I'm not going off road and putting a wheel in the air.
 
A diff drop will always help. The closer to level ur cv axles are the better and longer they last. Check ur steering rack angles , to steep of a angle and it can cause some binding and will also cause wheel bumb
 
Get rid of the top out spacer. Eibach struts are extended travel as it is. Pushing too much down travel with that combo.
 
Mike07SE said:
Get rid of the top out spacer. Eibach struts are extended travel as it is. Pushing too much down travel with that combo.
Click to expand...

I just got an alignment. How much will removing the spacer effect the alignment?

I have a diff drop coming in today. I might try that first and see if it changes anything. If not I will remove the spacer.
 
phatcheeks said:
I just got an alignment. How much will removing the spacer effect the alignment?

I have a diff drop coming in today. I might try that first and see if it changes anything. If not I will remove the spacer.
Click to expand...

It will affect the alignment enough to warrant another one.

IMHO diff spacers are a bandaid. I’ve be been down this road before. Get rid of the spacer and if you still need to compensate for a lean tackle it from the rear coils.
 
Mike07SE said:
It will affect the alignment enough to warrant another one.

IMHO diff spacers are a bandaid. I’ve be been down this road before. Get rid of the spacer and if you still need to compensate for a lean tackle it from the rear coils.
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate? A lot of companies are offering spacers to correct the lean. What are the side effects preventing using it?
 
andreylights said:
Can you elaborate? A lot of companies are offering spacers to correct the lean. What are the side effects preventing using it?
Click to expand...

He's already past the range of suspension travel with the shocks he's using. If he were using shocks that were shorter in overall length he could probably stick with what he's got. Since his suspension is starting to bind with that setup, he should take it off and compensate for the lean by spacing a rear coil where there wouldn't be any adverse affect to the front suspension.
 
Mike07SE said:
He's already past the range of suspension travel with the shocks he's using. If he were using shocks that were shorter in overall length he could probably stick with what he's got. Since his suspension is starting to bind with that setup, he should take it off and compensate for the lean by spacing a rear coil where there wouldn't be any adverse affect to the front suspension.
Click to expand...

Great explanation, thanks!
 
Anyone considering/needing a dif drop should check out ' Phat Bars Diff Drop'.
These are the real deal if you do serious off road IMO.
There is a write-up associated with them that I watched and it did a great job of explain this product and how it is far superior to just adding a 1" spacer to the front dif mount that results in only about 1/2" actual axle raise.
 
rdruss said:
Anyone considering/needing a dif drop should check out ' Phat Bars Diff Drop'.
These are the real deal if you do serious off road IMO.
There is a write-up associated with them that I watched and it did a great job of explain this product and how it is far superior to just adding a 1" spacer to the front dif mount that results in only about 1/2" actual axle raise.
Click to expand...

There is overkill and over over kill.
 
Mike07SE said:
He's already past the range of suspension travel with the shocks he's using. If he were using shocks that were shorter in overall length he could probably stick with what he's got. Since his suspension is starting to bind with that setup, he should take it off and compensate for the lean by spacing a rear coil where there wouldn't be any adverse affect to the front suspension.
Click to expand...

thanks for that. I do know that adding a spacer actually extends the travel more since its pushing the shock down lower vs having a spring that is 1/4 inch taller keeps the same shock travel.
 
I checked again for binding and for some reason it is not binding anymore. It seems like the alignment might of messed with the angle of the cv to wheel and fixed it.
Again, it was binding very little so any minor change could of fixed it.

i did notice though that at full droop and turning wheel all the way to the right the outer boot touches the lower shock mount. Nothing to terrifying hopefully.
Passenger is fine.

So for now the diff drop is off (might install later) and the spacer is still on.
 
phatcheeks said:
thanks for that. I do know that adding a spacer actually extends the travel more since its pushing the shock down lower vs having a spring that is 1/4 inch taller keeps the same shock travel.
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't trying to insult you, I was trying to explain the scenario to andreylights.
 
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