CV Boot

[Redfalcon]

Yesturday while doing some regular maintnance I found a small tare in driver side CV boot. I could see grease on the inside of the fender. So I know that some of it got out :wow:

There is no noise. I can tell that the truck is pulling to the right but I am not sure if that is just the alignment.

There 2 good write ups on how to remove an axel and put a new one in.
I think that I can do it. I have some of the tools and will need to get 35 mm socket and 10 mm hex head socket. :nerd:

My question is should I just get a CV boot and repack the axel myself or should I just get a new rebuild axel(I am not sure if there is such a thing as new unless I go to a dealer)?

 

[sonerick]

There are re-manufactured units available at most auto parts stores, including NAPA and online retailers like rockauto.com. You might be able to get a pretty good deal compared to dealership prices.

Boot kits are pretty cheap, but its a messy job. It's really up to you. I'm sure the CV itself would be fine with a re-boot and some grease, but it would be easier to pop a new unit in there.

 

[galactic_04]

You can get the axle from Autozone, oreily, etc. for $65. The 35MM nut can be a B*** to get off, but have a pipe ready to get some leverage on that thing. It's usually gunned on there pretty good. If you've never rebooted an asle before, I'd get the remanufactured axle. Rebooting does involve taking the joint apart.

 

[Sungod]

Are you sure you can break the axle nut loose? That is the hardest part. As long as you have the right socket and air or arms like popeye, it is pretty straight forward. I would just go with new axles. For the cost they are not much more and you know they are new. It is a hassle to pull the old ones apart, clean them, inspect them, and then reasssemble. My time is worth more than the $20 or so price difference between boots and new shafts.

You will need a fluid pump to replace the gear oil.

 

[Redfalcon]

Reply

Thanks for your input. I think I will go with a new axel. I had to repack ball barrings once on my Nissan and it was a mess.

"Are you sure you can break the axle nut loose?" - Sungod

I am not sure. But I will buy a extention for a socket wrench. I do have have a pump. When you say gear oil. Is that for the front differential?

 

[sonerick]

Have a good breaker bar on hand too lol.

Yes, gear oil is for the front diff. Might as well drain and fill the whole thing after you have the new axle in there (assuming it hasn't been done recently). Make sure u remove the fill plug first, just in case the drain plug is stuck and won't come off.

You might also want to replace the seal in case it is damaged when you pull the shaft from the diff.

 

[CXS]

Make sure u remove the fill plug first, just in case the drain plug is stuck and won't come off.

Beat me to it but should be everyone's first step!

 

[Redfalcon]

Yep I got the seal on my list. Breaker Bar sound good. There is a skid plate under front differential and I never actually changed that fluid. So it will be the first time.

 

[Sungod]

That nut will have about 200ft/lbs of torque on it. Youl will likely need more than a breaker bar. You will probably need 3ft of pipe to put on the end. Don't use a cheap breaker bar unless it has a lifetime warranty because you could snap it. Without air you will may have to take the wheel off then the dust cover then put the wheel back on and lower it to the ground to break the nut lose. Resist the urge to wedge anything in the lug nuts or anywhere else. A helper with their foot on the brake might work as well.

 

[Redfalcon]

Wow...:iagree:

That actually makes sense. Thanks!

 

[4RunnerSeth]

Just use an impact if you have it. I've had to do these before and my 3/4" impact takes them right off.

 

[settytb]

I wrote up a decent write up about changing cv's lists all the sockets etc that you'll need. and some seal part numbers.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html

Hope it helps.