Dealer Coolant Flushed with Wrong Coolant?

peebee

New member
2007 4th gen, V6, 2x4

I know I could have done the coolant flush myself, so don't ask me why I took it in for such a simple task. :ybrick:

Uhg...

With that out of the way, I went in the day before and asked if they do a simple drain or a flush, and was told they did a flush. I also asked if they used the pink SLLC and they said yes.

So the next day I take my truck in to have it flushed. Get home and go to replace a lower headlamp that burned out, and I notice the overflow tank is now green. So I checked the receipt and saw that they used this coolant:

Antifreeze/Coolant O'Reilly 87219 - Engine Coolant/Anti-Freeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I looked at my owners manual and it states:

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” or
similar high quality ethylene glycol
based non−silicate, non−amine, non−ni-
trite, and non−borate coolant with long−
life hybrid organic acid technology.

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” is a
mixture of 50% coolant and 50% deion-
ized water (for the U.S.A.) or 55%
coolant and 45% deionized water (for
Canada).​



If you look at the O'Reilly's coolant, it does say it is non-silicate based. But it also says it's non-phosphate too. I also doubt they used deionized (or distilled) water and probably just used tap.

Should I be worried, or should I take it back and have them use the Toyota SLLC? Is this something I should be out of pocket for because I wasn't extremely clear in my instructions? i.e. handhold them through the process of which type of coolant, how much, use deionized water instead of tap, etc.

I feel like such a dick going in and being this anal about my truck.
 
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2007 4th gen, V6, 2x4

I know I could have done the coolant flush myself, so don't ask me why I took it in for such a simple task. :ybrick:

Uhg...

With that out of the way, I went in the day before and asked if they do a simple drain or a flush, and was told they did a flush. I also asked if they used the pink SLLC and they said yes.

So the next day I take my truck in to have it flushed. Get home and go to replace a lower headlamp that burned out, and I notice the overflow tank is now green. So I checked the receipt and saw that they used this coolant:

Antifreeze/Coolant O'Reilly 87219 - Engine Coolant/Anti-Freeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I looked at my owners manual and it states:

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” or
similar high quality ethylene glycol
based non−silicate, non−amine, non−ni-
trite, and non−borate coolant with long−
life hybrid organic acid technology.

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” is a
mixture of 50% coolant and 50% deion-
ized water (for the U.S.A.) or 55%
coolant and 45% deionized water (for
Canada).​



If you look at the O'Reilly's coolant, it does say it is non-silicate based. But it also says it's non-phosphate too. I also doubt they used deionized (or distilled) water and probably just used tap.

Should I be worried, or should I take it back and have them use the Toyota SLLC? Is this something I should be out of pocket for because I wasn't extremely clear in my instructions? i.e. handhold them through the process of which type of coolant, how much, use deionized water instead of tap, etc.

I feel like such a dick going in and being this anal about my truck.
a Toyota dealer used Oreillys coolant? that's shady..

I would take it back.
 
Take it back in, request for the right stuff in it and to be completely flush out. Break out your owners manual so they understand TOYOTAS recommendations.

To many threads on here about long term effects on this.
 
a Toyota dealer used Oreillys coolant? that's shady..

I would take it back.

So, I looked at the rest of the work they did (they also changed the rear differential) and they used this:

Ultra-Guard® LS Heavy Duty | BG Products, Inc.

Which is 75w-140.

My owners manual states:

DIFFERENTIAL (4.0 L V6 [1GR−FE] en-
gine)

Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):
Two−wheel drive models
3.05 (3.2, 2.7)

Four−wheel drive models
Front 1.5 (1.6, 1.3)
Rear 3.05 (3.2, 2.7)

Oil type:
Hypoid gear oil API GL−5
Recommended oil viscosity:

Front
SAE 75W−90

Rear
Above −18? C (0? F)
SAE 90

Below −18? C (0? F)
SAE 80W or 80W−90​

I think I got double screwed.

Wish I was more mechanically in-tune.
 
Didn't do search, but what you listed as being put in, is API GL-5 fluid, just the weight is different from the manual.
 
Didn't do search, but what you listed as being put in, is API GL-5 fluid, just the weight is different from the manual.

Thanks for the info. Is the weight anything I should really be worried about? My understanding of oil weights / viscosity isn't exactly my forte. lol

Thank you for the insight.
 
Thanks for the info. Is the weight anything I should really be worried about? My understanding of oil weights / viscosity isn't exactly my forte. lol

Thank you for the insight.

Again haven't done a search, have seen other post in the past of using and questioning the weight they used. I do my own, and buy what's recommended.
 
2007 4th gen, V6, 2x4

I know I could have done the coolant flush myself, so don't ask me why I took it in for such a simple task. :ybrick:

Uhg...

With that out of the way, I went in the day before and asked if they do a simple drain or a flush, and was told they did a flush. I also asked if they used the pink SLLC and they said yes.

So the next day I take my truck in to have it flushed. Get home and go to replace a lower headlamp that burned out, and I notice the overflow tank is now green. So I checked the receipt and saw that they used this coolant:

Antifreeze/Coolant O'Reilly 87219 - Engine Coolant/Anti-Freeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I looked at my owners manual and it states:

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” or
similar high quality ethylene glycol
based non−silicate, non−amine, non−ni-
trite, and non−borate coolant with long−
life hybrid organic acid technology.

“Toyota Super Long Life Coolant” is a
mixture of 50% coolant and 50% deion-
ized water (for the U.S.A.) or 55%
coolant and 45% deionized water (for
Canada).​



If you look at the O'Reilly's coolant, it does say it is non-silicate based. But it also says it's non-phosphate too. I also doubt they used deionized (or distilled) water and probably just used tap.

Should I be worried, or should I take it back and have them use the Toyota SLLC? Is this something I should be out of pocket for because I wasn't extremely clear in my instructions? i.e. handhold them through the process of which type of coolant, how much, use deionized water instead of tap, etc.

I feel like such a dick going in and being this anal about my truck.

I'd go back and have them do what they said they were going to do. If they say they're going to use the pink coolant then they should have used it.

And the oil weight should be the one specified in the manual. Can you run a different weight? Sure...but use what the engineers specify IMO.

It's not about you looking like a dick or being anal. It's them doing what you paid them to do.
 
Again haven't done a search, have seen other post in the past of using and questioning the weight they used. I do my own, and buy what's recommended.

Gear oil weight isn't as critical as engine oil weight. The gear oil they put is fine.
 
Gear oil weight isn't as critical as engine oil weight. The gear oil they put is fine.

Thank you MikeInNH. And thank you to others who provided feedback too.

At this point I think it's appropriate to have the coolant re-flushed though. Not only for the fact that they didn't use the SLLC as they said they would, but O'Reilly's? Come on now... I expect genuine Toyota parts and products when I go to a Toyota Dealership.
 
wow......

Take pictures of your "green" coolant before you head back for a thorough flush and re-fill with genuine Toyota coolant to show proof that Toyota screwed you.

After I reamed the service manager a new a-hole, I'd be on the phone with Toyota Corporate and email them a copy of your receipt along with pictures. Hell, I'd probably be posting a video to YouTube as well just to show how shady that Toyota dealership really is.

I just picked up a gallon of genuine Toyota coolant last week and it was $27.

With respect to your differential fluid, I'd also demand Toyota replace it with what is currently shown in your owner's manual. Who's going to foot the bill if your differentials take a crap because the wrong fluid was used?
 
I agree. If I am going to the dealer, I want OEM recomended parts and fluids only. I can get any walmart, jiffy lube, etc. to complete these services with regular products.

I do most of my own work when I can BUT when I do take it to dealer, I only want and expect what toyota calls for. Luckily, my buddy works for a good local dealer and takes it in for me and he knows what I like so it is always done right. But if or when he is not available, I would make sure my dealer knew my expectations.
 
If they dont comply make sure you give Toyota North America a call. Im sure they will help you out when one of their dealerships doenst want to play nice.
 
I love how the O'reilly's page you linked shows no Compatibility information... ah the joys of "Universal Coolants."

Chances are its not the correct coolant for the vehicle. I wouldn't sweat too much the deionized water part as that's sorta gimmicky, but I would be worried about what chemicals they have in there. I found some coolants use "Aluma-Guard" which is an additive package that adds in chemicals meant for DexCool vehicle even though the specifications read close to Toyota stuff up until the "Aluma-Guard" part.

Take it back to the dealer and have them do a FULL flush of vehicle, not a partial drain and fill; it will take at minimum 2 gallons of coolant to do properly (so you can keep tabs on the repair order/parts bill.) Unless they can provide chemical data that matches exactly what Toyota expects of SLLC and/or are willing to replace your engine and related cooling components 100% parts & labor when they eventually corrode excessively (if they are stupid enough to do that, make sure you get it in writing and a lawyer to check it out :P ), then they need to fix their screw-up.
 
Being that I happen to work at O'Reilly, that coolant is ok for the 4R and is compatible. It's the same stuff Tires Plus, Tire Kingdom, Mobil 1 or any other service place would use if they changed your coolant. What bugs me is that you took it to the dealer and they replaced it with a generic type and not OE. I too went the extra mile to buy Toyota coolant for $27 to too off my reservoir. I find it odd that the dealer didn't use OE coolant...
 
Being that I happen to work at O'Reilly, that coolant is ok for the 4R and is compatible. It's the same stuff Tires Plus, Tire Kingdom, Mobil 1 or any other service place would use if they changed your coolant. What bugs me is that you took it to the dealer and they replaced it with a generic type and not OE. I too went the extra mile to buy Toyota coolant for $27 to too off my reservoir. I find it odd that the dealer didn't use OE coolant...

Can you get me a chemical list for it? I'd like to look it over so I can add it to my little black book of good coolants. :)
 
While we are on the topic of incorrect coolant...Does anyone know about Khameleon Antifreeze/Coolant? I have just started to take over the maintenance for my car and was going back through records and it looks like that is what Firestone put in. Website says its "Low-silicate, phosphate-free product"...and here is the website for it.

Anyone know if this is compatible with the SLL stuff?
 
I work Saturday so I'll be sure to ask then.

This is actually very cool and I'm interested to know as well. I looked for the chemical list online but didn't find it. I admit, I didn't look extensively, but I did give it a good effort. Thank you for checking in on this.

Also, since you said this is compatible with the 4R, I'm assuming this is not DexCool coolant then right? I believe most Asian car manufacturers do not approve of DexCool?
 
While we are on the topic of incorrect coolant...Does anyone know about Khameleon Antifreeze/Coolant? I have just started to take over the maintenance for my car and was going back through records and it looks like that is what Firestone put in. Website says its "Low-silicate, phosphate-free product"...and here is the website for it.

Anyone know if this is compatible with the SLL stuff?

I don't believe "low-silicate" is appropriate. Toyota uses 100% silicate free or "non-silicate" coolant.
 

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