Pricing help needed

[Septimius]

Hey Folks,

Firstly forgive me if this is the wrong area to post this in and feel free to move it.

I am paring down the fleet and consolidating to a pickup truck that can easily tow the boat and the track car / motorcycles (not at the same time). As such I am going to be selling the 3rd gen (among other fun stuff) and need some help determining what a fair price would be. I don't want to think what I'm into it for, and I don't want to overestimate what it's worth and sit on it forever or underestimate and have someone flip it. Specs are as follows:

2001 SR5, Auto, 190k miles

The good:
Absolutely everything works (power windows, locks, sunroof, rear slide window, even antenna, AWD, 4WD HI and LOW, cruise control etc)
Never had any mechanical issues (knock on wood)
Previous owner did B&H trans cooler to avoid trans contamination issues
Weathertech liners front and back
Tow hitch receiver with 4pin wiring harness that works great
Work done within the last two years since I've had it (have all receipts):
Coolant flush and change
ATF flush and change
Brake fluid flush and change
New gear oil in both diffs and the transfer case
New 2nd catalytic converter and 02 sensor
New OEM cat back exhaust
Almost new (less than 5k on them) Kumho AT51 A/T tires 265/75 16
New battery
New Pioneer headunit with bluetooth music playback and wired with mic for phone calls

The meh:
Timing belt done at 118k (coming up soonish)
Some surface rust on underbody (started life as a NJ car then moved to WNY)
Few scratches and dents on the bodywork (couple on front bumper and one on hatch, see pics)
Couple scratches in the interior (passenger dash and passenger door, see pics)
Brakes work well but there's a grinding noise from the left front when turning left, think it's a backing plate scraping but haven't had a look
Previous owner replaced shocks 3 years ago but they're the cheapo NAPA ones, could probably use an OME kit or new OEM stuff
1 accident on carfax (minor)

The bad:
Rust on the front right middle edge of hood.
Throws CEL for EVAP leak. Quoted over $900 just in parts with no guarantee that it would be fixed. Doesn't affect the truck at all, but in order to pass NYS inspection it needs to be addressed or you need to reset CEL and drive it while keeping it over 3/4 of a tank (doesn't check for EVAP until below) until every monitor other than that sets (allowed to have one monitor not set and pass inspection as long as it's not throwing a code yet). Is currently inspected through October. Wouldn't be an issue for folks that live in a non inspection state (PA etc).

I may be forgetting some stuff and will update if I remember it. Added photos in the post below. Any thoughts on price / suggestions are much appreciated!

Thanks, Tim

 

[Septimius]

 

[VernySanders]

I live in Michigan so I can speak from the northernish climate and we have tons of salt as well. 190k miles in current condition I'm thinking 3500? Book it out for your zip but someone out here in that condition as long as frame is solid would have no problem paying 3500 bucks. It needs a little work but nothing major.

 

[thennen]

Looks good, and mileage isn’t a concern. I had a 2001 in Ohio and at 265,000 the frame had rusted to the point it became unsafe. So folks on this forum would want to see pics of the underside. But like yours, everything worked, down to the antenna. Flawless engine, too.

Also, mine had an evap CEL for 10 years. Never could fix it. Then one day a few years ago I was filling it with gas and fuel started spilling off the top of the tank while still not reaching the top of the filler neck. Apparently the seal between the filler neck and tank had deteriorated, possibly from years of over-filling. Maybe this threw my evap code? Just a thought.

 

[Septimius]

I live in Michigan so I can speak from the northernish climate and we have tons of salt as well. 190k miles in current condition I'm thinking 3500? Book it out for your zip but someone out here in that condition as long as frame is solid would have no problem paying 3500 bucks. It needs a little work but nothing major.

Thanks for the input! You think it's worth me buttoning up the brakes etc before listing it? Or does that not play a huge role in the price.

 

[VernySanders]

Thanks for the input! You think it's worth me buttoning up the brakes etc before listing it? Or does that not play a huge role in the price.

If its test driveable I'd let the buyer decide. If it was me I'd want to do them myself cause I domt trust people's worm but a different buyer may want you to take care of them. Always something you can throw in to close a deal

 

[Septimius]

Looks good, and mileage isn’t a concern. I had a 2001 in Ohio and at 265,000 the frame had rusted to the point it became unsafe. So folks on this forum would want to see pics of the underside. But like yours, everything worked, down to the antenna. Flawless engine, too.



Also, mine had an evap CEL for 10 years. Never could fix it. Then one day a few years ago I was filling it with gas and fuel started spilling off the top of the tank while still not reaching the top of the filler neck. Apparently the seal between the filler neck and tank had deteriorated, possibly from years of over-filling. Maybe this threw my evap code? Just a thought.

I’ll take a couple pics of the undercarriage when I get home today. It’s very solid, there was one spot on the 3rd crossmember that I didn’t like so I replaced the crossmember (bolts in) other than that it’s just surface rust. Suppose someone could take a wire wheel to it and paint or rust prop it if they wanted to.

I’ll take a look at the filler too, the shop was telling me it was the charcoal canister.

Thanks for the input!


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[PHGen3]

It is amazing how these trucks typically hold up appearance wise. Yours looks pretty good. $3,500 doesn't sound too bad.

 

[TheLincolnGreen]

$3500 would be the low end in my area. $5000 is what I would expect to see one similar listed for.

 

[Septimius]

Pictures of the front and rear undercarriage plus the crossmember I replaced.

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[Hepar]

Sorry, but there's zero chance that is just surface rust.

 

[BoomerBob]

It's really too bad these rigs weren't treated with some kind of anti-rust undercoating before they ever left a dealer lot. Especially in snow country where they salt the roads.

 

[Septimius]

Sorry, but there's zero chance that is just surface rust.

I can pound on it with a hammer or stab it with a screwdriver and it’s not soft. Ergo sum it’s rust on the surface of the metal not rot throughout. Maybe surface rust has different definitions depending on where you are but compared to other vehicles around here that is surface rust. As in not rotting away and falling apart like cherokees or wranglers or xterras.


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[Septimius]

It's really too bad these rigs weren't treated with some kind of anti-rust undercoating before they ever left a dealer lot. Especially in snow country where they salt the roads.

I would think they were, or at least Yota used better quality / thicker metals than competitors. There is a stark difference in between how Toyota vehicles have held up vs others (both domestic and foreign) of the same age in the rustbelt.

 

[MaineRunna]

$3000 min as is, $4-6k if you fix a few things, treat the frame with something and have it fully detailed.

 

[Hepar]

I can pound on it with a hammer or stab it with a screwdriver and it’s not soft. Ergo sum it’s rust on the surface of the metal not rot throughout. Maybe surface rust has different definitions depending on where you are but compared to other vehicles around here that is surface rust. As in not rotting away and falling apart like cherokees or wranglers or xterras.


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If you say so.