Deck Plate Mod

billith88

New member
I have a 98 4runner Limited and i have been thinking recently about trying to get the most out of it. I just ordered a True Flow air filter which i have read about in many of you guys posts. I was wondering if it is a good idea to do the deck plate mod in addition to the new air filter. I think that I might try to do that mod oneday when i have some time. My other question regarding this is when do you have to put the deck plate's cap in? Can i leave the cap off if it is raining outside? Most of my driving is around town, so the water from off roading will not be that big of an issue. Thanks in advance for your help.
-Billy

I forgot to mention earlier. I am 17 years old and i have driven my 4runner for a little over a year now and it has 138,000 miles on it. I have not done any mods yet so this will be my first one. I think i will be able to complete this mod with ease, but I have no ever actually tried to do anything besides routine maintenance.
 
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The only time you would need to put the cap back in would be if you are off road and doing a water crossing;rain or even most puddles will not be an issue.

I've had the deckplate on both of my Runners and I've actually yet to put the cap back in since I don't cross deep streams very often.
 
I also re-install my deckplate cover when I'm driving anywhere really dusty... just to try to extend the life of the air filter somewhat.
 
Do a search on this topic, check out Gadget's airbox mod dyno tests and then determine if 1hp is really worth doing the deckplate mod (or just unscrewing the "elbow" that runs into your quarterpanel).

I just did the elbow and amsoil filter.

I figger that if I'm going to ford water deep enough to get into the airbox, I'll install a proper snorkle...
 
makakio said:
Do a search on this topic, check out Gadget's airbox mod dyno tests and then determine if 1hp is really worth doing the deckplate mod (or just unscrewing the "elbow" that runs into your quarterpanel).

I just did the elbow and amsoil filter.

I figger that if I'm going to ford water deep enough to get into the airbox, I'll install a proper snorkle...

It's 9HP...
 
marko3xl3 said:
It's 9HP...

That's a max of "wheel" horsepower which is probably 11-12 at the crank. The minimum HP you would see is 7whp but for a $15 investment it's worth it.
 
i removed my air elbow and i did notice some hp. it sucks more air like crazy on my aftermarket air intake. :cool:
 
marko3xl3 said:
It's 9HP...

STFU. Here's the dyno results:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduction.htm

For the record, I was wrong too. Doing the deckplate mod nets you 2.7hp more in 1st than just the elbow, .4hp more in second and zero more in 3rd.

It's a 9HP difference at the wheels over the stock airbox - and only in third gear (first and second offer smaller increases). So if we're talking 3rd gear only, both the deckplate and elbow removal are equal mods as they both produce the same power - a 9hp difference over stock.

So, how much work you want to do for 2.7hp in first gear is your call.
 
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Here are my personal comments from the airbox mod I had done to my wife's 4R a couple of months ago:

Airbox / Amsoil mod.
Well, I got one of the last Amsoil filters available as they've discontinued the product in order to shift over to some new technology (which won't be available in a 3rd gen fitment for they "don't know how long"). Had my tech do the mod and basically all he had to do was unbolt the snorkel from inside the wheel well, which - on my Runner - left a straight piece of pipe running into the protected cavity of the wheel well. He added some screen to that and we didn't have any need for cutting as there are no bends leading to the airbox. Decided the deckplate mod was overkill given Gadget's dyno test (sweet!) of various methods and I can report that the truck pulls through the 3000 - 5000rpm MUCH more willingingly, smoothly and easily than before (it used to sound seriously choked up and strained at 4000 rpms and always wanted to shift up at 3000 or so rpms). As far as I can tell, MPG is unaffected, as is overall power or throttle sensitivity. You can hear a bit of an intake suck when you're really into the throttle, which is kinda cool. But again my biggest observation is the expansion of the useable portion of the powerband. For instance, in some hilly, long-grade areas around my home where previously the truck might have faded "off the powerband" and dropped a gear it now has an easier time holding that gear (this could be indicative of a power increase I realize, but if there is one it's slight). Also, where I might be accelerating up those long grades and the truck would choke up - and shift up (at 3000rpms or so) only to stall and have to shift back down - it now holds the gear longer (and based on sound much easier) with the same throttle input before it upshifts. The Big Deal in all this is that the tranny doesn't 'hunt' anymore between 3rd and 4th on grades, constantly upshifting, downshifting or requiring me to use the OD lockout because the engine was always on the edge of the useable powerband versus being smack dab in the middle of it through gear changes. This is a big deal to me. And well worth the $50 I paid my tech to unbolt the elbow and affix some stainless screen with a hose clamp...
 
recent airbox mods

I just finished doing the elbow removal and the deck plate mod on my 98 SR5, and I am very glad I did it!

I removed the elbow yesterday and drove around and noticed little to no difference in performance (sadly). After installing the deckplate, at about 3000RPM at WOT, the damn thing ROARS! I was looking for more volume under the hood unlike some people who like the quiet approach, so I don't even care if I gained 2.7hp or 50hp, the 45 minutes of my time was worth it. It defidently felt a bit faster, too. I guess the next step will be a decent exhaust system and I think I should be just fine! :)

I am still using the OEM air filter since the amsoil hasn't arrived yet. Hopefully that will help, too.

The biggest and most important thing I made sure to do was vaccuum the hell out of the airbox before I put it back in; my biggest fear was a plastic shaving getting sucked into the engine!

overall I reccomend the mod to anyone who has enough confidence that they can pull it off. :bigok:
 
makakio said:
STFU. Here's the dyno results:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduction.htm

For the record, I was wrong too. Doing the deckplate mod nets you 2.7hp more in 1st than just the elbow, .4hp more in second and zero more in 3rd.

It's a 9HP difference at the wheels over the stock airbox - and only in third gear (first and second offer smaller increases). So if we're talking 3rd gear only, both the deckplate and elbow removal are equal mods as they both produce the same power - a 9hp difference over stock.

So, how much work you want to do for 2.7hp in first gear is your call.

no offense buddy but your not gonna net 9hp at 500 rpms anyways

even with a fipk or a volant CAI you are going to get the same results.

ending numbers make the difference.. not what gear it is in.
 
And your point is wha?

That (of course) all those figures are at peak HP-generating RPM, which is somewhere above 4500?

Welcome to the conversation.

And actually, I don't know that a Volant or an FIPK were tested on a dyno as compared to the deckplate/elbow/K&N comparo that was published.

Do you have actual data?
 
my point is this

you paid a tech to take out the elbow for 50 bucks when a deckplate is 10 and yeilds even and more then the elbow

include the deckplate + ISR and yield even more

total of 50 bucks for both those to own the elbow.

fipk = 250
volant = 300 or so

easy as shit

thats my point
 
neliconcept said:
my point is this

you paid a tech to take out the elbow for 50 bucks when a deckplate is 10 and yeilds even and more then the elbow

include the deckplate + ISR and yield even more

total of 50 bucks for both those to own the elbow.

fipk = 250
volant = 300 or so

easy as shit

thats my point

250 what? 300 what? Sorry to be dense, but wha?

Deckplate doesn't yield more than elbow (see Gadget's numbers).

Plus, doing the deckplate is a DIY for $10. If not DIYing it's would cost more than $50. If I DIY'd I would have done the elbow for freeee, but I don't DIY on cars.
 
250 dollars
300 dollars

10 bucks for my isr piping. $2 for my fpr hose. 10 for deckplate and $1 for the screws... $23 doesnt sound bad at all.



im getting these numbers right i think

Run 9 Stock Box No Front 173.3 HP 205.5 HP 210.8 HP
Run 8 Stock Box No Elbow 170.7 HP 205.1 HP 210.8 HP

uhh yeah it does

isr taking off the intake silencer and putting on a peice of pipe yeilds prob another 3 to 4

about 14 or so at the crank.. 8 to 9 at the wheels

getting low range hp cant be achieved with shit like this anyways.. thats when force induction comes in.

and for a 4runner? pointless
id rather do it myself and save my money for food then waste it on a tech.
 
You're right: 2.6 and .4 HP. Seeing as I quoted it I should have remembered...

And those numbers are (I think) available to you at 4500+rpm in 1st and 2nd. 3rd is a wash and 4th isn't on the chart. That's my interpretation of the data.

So like I said, it just comes down to how much you want to do for that difference. For me, it was pretty basic - give me the gains on the highway so the truck will hold gears better and breathe better on long grades.

If we want real (useable-down-low) power improvement it can be as easy as a bolt-on SC...

Still, I think it breathes and revs a lot easier without the elbow and with a quality filter on it. Noticeably better (as per my comments).

Or you can spend $250 or $300 for the other stuff (but that's a pretty big hit to your food bill).
 
From what I have read, a FIPK actually nets a loss of horsepower for the 3.4L toyota engine.

DynoBOX2.jpg


The red is with an open front air box, the green is stock, the blue is the FIPK.

Whoops!
 
yes it does all depend on how much you are willing to go through

each hp gain does count though regardless of the numbers

though if you look at bimmers ( I own a 535i)

intake kits from dinan are like 500 for 8bhp (not rwhp) and chips that give you about a good 20 gain for 200 and mass air meters.. free flow exhaust..

but then you get into performance stuff that doesnt even add hp like strut assemblies.. better sway assemblies and engine strut bars and what not

all performance counts though if you see what im getting too.

In my opinion even if you arent a DIYer and I used to not be but it is fun doing such things and I have had a blast doing it so I do recommend this mod to anyone.
 
finally got around to doing the deckplate mod, and im very happy with it! Noticeable difference in sound and power in the CO altitude.

One question I had was do you guys put the plate in on rainy days? I dont think there is a high liklihood of water getting into the intake, but I just thought Id poll people to see what you think..
 
I've had the deckplate installed for about 2 years, never put the cap in yet and have driven through some SERIOUS rain and puddles that came into the truck when the door opened...so you'll be fine unless you're crossing rivers

<rant>
as for the other guy: who gives a **** what makes .4 more HP than the other? you prefer the elbow, ****ing do it to your truck! you prefer the deckplate, do it to your truck! prefer stock? leave it stock! it's like abortion, if it doesnt conscern you or your truck(body) stay the **** out of it

<\rant>
<z>
 

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