Different control arms per year / model?

A

APhelps

New member
I'm looking to replace all my bushings on my 4runner so I've decided to buy a spare of set of LCAs and UCAs (front and rear) and do all the bushing removal and pressing in (some sort of combination of OEM, whiteline, or ES). I figure this will remove a lot of stress (for myself) since my 4runner is a daily driver and being able to just swap them over will significantly reduce any problems and potential downtime.

I've looked through the Toyota microfiche for parts for my 98 4runner (4wd) and can't seem to make any sense of it. Are there different control arms for 2wd / 4wd? Does the model years have any differences besides bushing sizes? Just wanted to figure out what model years I should be looking to get the control arms from and whether the 2wd / 4wd matters.

Thanks in advance
-Aaron
 
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nope, you're good. For $400~ + shipping (which is going to sting, they are heavy), you're on your way to a good set of aftermarket UCAs (TC, etc)...
 
One way I can easily figure out something like this would be go to camelback Toyota parts and compare model numbers between your year and other years + 2wd vs 4wd. Takes the guess work out of it imo..
 
NWFL4Runner said:
nope, you're good. For $400~ + shipping (which is going to sting, they are heavy), you're on your way to a good set of aftermarket UCAs (TC, etc)...
Click to expand...

Is there any reason to actually go aftermarket? Seems like most guys are just running stock with whiteline, ES, or OEM parts in them.

I figure I can rebuild the front and rear suspension for around ~400-500. It seems I'll just have to re-use my rear UCAs but getting the rest of the suspension should make this job significantly easier.

I'm not 100% sure that my 4runner needs it but from the looks of it I've got 215k on the odometer and they look like the original bushings. The car doesn't want to drive straight (the alignment isn't too terrible) but I like getting out in front of things before failure.
 
Took this from the other thread:

3rd gen 2wd UCA: 11-11/16 inches or 29.7cm.

3rd gen 4wd UCA*: 12-1/4 inches or 31.1cm.
 
Get a spare set of Alignment Cams and get some carbide sawzall blade just in case. My passenger side was seized in there and I had to cut them out. I would have all the parts/tools waiting just in case. When you put them back in, make sure to grease the cam tube so it doesn't seize again. If you are fortunate enough to have everything come out easily, then go return the tools/parts.
 
APhelps said:
Is there any reason to actually go aftermarket? Seems like most guys are just running stock with whiteline, ES, or OEM parts in them.

I figure I can rebuild the front and rear suspension for around ~400-500. It seems I'll just have to re-use my rear UCAs but getting the rest of the suspension should make this job significantly easier.

I'm not 100% sure that my 4runner needs it but from the looks of it I've got 215k on the odometer and they look like the original bushings. The car doesn't want to drive straight (the alignment isn't too terrible) but I like getting out in front of things before failure.
Click to expand...

First off, I need to learn to read. Didn't realize you were asking about rear as well. Everyone is right, the 2wd and 4wd rear UCA are different (2wd shorter). Otherwise, the front UCA/LCA and rear LCA/pan are all identical.

Aftermarket UCA if you plan on a lift/bigger tires. If you just want the daily drive to be tighter, new bushings it is.
 
APhelps said:
Took this from the other thread:

3rd gen 2wd UCA: 11-11/16 inches or 29.7cm.

3rd gen 4wd UCA*: 12-1/4 inches or 31.1cm.
Click to expand...

This is the exact reason I would go on camelback and look at part numbers and compare years/2wd vs 4wd.. if it’s the same part it’ll be the same number
 
Mevotech

For what it's worth I just rebuilt the whole suspension on mine. The upper control arms I replaced just the bushings with beck/Arnleys from RockAuto. Super simple, and cheap. Simply because my Lower's were super rusty, I bought Mevotech complete lower control arms, and ball joints.

All of my camber bolts came loose easy peasy except one. I had to cut it off the with a sawzall. Make sure you get a good heavy metal carbide blade to cut through them, they are some hard steel.

I was kind of nervous using the Mevotech stuff because I really had no experience with them previously, but they went right in, fit perfect, and alignment was a breeze, and I did not fee like the price was outrageous.

Also, I did swap over my bump stops from the old rusty lowers. I was able to get them out without them breaking off, but be aware the Mevotech lowers do not come with bump stops installed.
 
NWFL4Runner said:
First off, I need to learn to read. Didn't realize you were asking about rear as well. Everyone is right, the 2wd and 4wd rear UCA are different (2wd shorter). Otherwise, the front UCA/LCA and rear LCA/pan are all identical.

Aftermarket UCA if you plan on a lift/bigger tires. If you just want the daily drive to be tighter, new bushings it is.
Click to expand...


No worries!

I plan on lifting it (just the standard 3" lift) and putting on slightly bigger tires so I'll probably just push in new bushings and see where things go. Used front UCAs and bushings isn't that expensive and I'll see how it plays out.
 
Last edited:
T4topher said:
This is the exact reason I would go on camelback and look at part numbers and compare years/2wd vs 4wd.. if it’s the same part it’ll be the same number
Click to expand...

Does camelback actually have a catalog? It seems like everything besides the rear UCAs are the same.
 
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