Different Metals together..

Spencer

New member
Alright so im filling in my holes left from removing the limited trim with button head allen 3/8" bolts but heres my questions.

I planned on getting black oxide for the bolt and outerwasher and then painting them black so they don't rust.

Now is it ok to use any metal washer and nut for the inner side of the bolt?

Also will the steel bolts cause coroding of the aluminum body panels?

I know its not good to have different metals contact each other but im not sure if that only exists for when electrons are passed between the two or wether its regardless.
 
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good question. I believe you are right they will rust when if together long enough. I will ask a expert and get back to you.
 
Its called a galvanic reaction when two dissimilar metals react. Other than that I cant help you :)
 
steel and aluminum do not like eachother at all. if you can find zinc screws to use on the aluminum you'll do much better... but you can also simply use a rubber washer to keep the two metals apart. that works very well.
 
Just make sure that the screw, washer and nut are of the same material. I find that stainless steel (as Qyota just said) has better corrosion properties than the usual zinc plated stuff. Since you are going to paint the hole to protect it, you will be fine as far as galvanic corrosion goes.
 
The only aluminum body cars I know of are the DeLorean and a few other exotics. The 4runner is all steel, baby!
 
Just make sure that the screw, washer and nut are of the same material. I find that stainless steel (as Qyota just said) has better corrosion properties than the usual zinc plated stuff. Since you are going to paint the hole to protect it, you will be fine as far as galvanic corrosion goes.


i thought zinc plated stuff, which is still better than black oxy, is more like a Sacrificial rod and once it starts to corrode it goes fast. (of course all of the zinc has to be eaten away first)

"A common example of galvanic corrosion is the rusting of corrugated iron sheet, which becomes widespread when the protective zinc coating is broken and the underlying steel is attacked. The zinc is attacked preferentially because it is less noble, but when consumed, rusting will occur in earnest. With a tin can, the opposite is true because the tin is more noble than the underlying steel, so when the coating is broken, the steel is attacked preferentially."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode

here is a list in order of least to most corrosive of materials
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series

"Zinc plating
Main article: Galvanization

Zinc coatings prevent oxidation of the protected metal by forming a barrier and by acting as a sacrificial anode if this barrier is damaged. Zinc oxide is a fine white dust that (in contrast to iron oxide) does not cause a breakdown of the substrate's surface integrity as it is formed. Indeed the zinc oxide, if undisturbed, can act as a barrier to further oxidation, in a way similar to the protection afforded to aluminum and stainless steels by their oxide layers. The majority of hardware parts are zinc plated, rather than cadmium plated.[2]"

and as stated above it is a fact that SS is a better material against corrosion than zinc,brass,black oxcy, anodized ect ect.

personally i'd go with a mil-2531 grade bolt

cad plated
http://www.google.com/products?hl=e...admium plated bolts&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

Cadmium plating

Cadmium plating is under scrutiny because of the environmental toxicity of the cadmium metal. However, cadmium plating is still widely used in some applications such as aerospace fasteners and it remains in military and aviation specs.[3] Cadmium plating (or "cad plating") has offers a long list of technical advantages such as excellent corrosion resistance even at relatively low thickness and in salt atmospheres, softness and malleability, freedom from sticky and/or bulky corrosion products, galvanic compatibility with aluminum, freedom from stick-slip thus allowing reliable torqueing of plated threads, can be dyed to many colors and clear, has good lubricity and solderability, and works well either as a final finish or as a paint base. [2][4]
 
The only aluminum body cars I know of are the DeLorean and a few other exotics. The 4runner is all steel, baby!

Ha Ha Ha, the delorean was all stainless steel. One heavy gutless turd. If in doubt what material. Just see if a magnet will stick to it. Aluminum, no stick. Steel, Stick. But then of course, stainless steel, no stick, too much nickel.
 
Ha Ha Ha, the delorean was all stainless steel. One heavy gutless turd. If in doubt what material. Just see if a magnet will stick to it. Aluminum, no stick. Steel, Stick. But then of course, stainless steel, no stick, too much nickel.

too much nickle? Off the top of my head I thought the 3 magnetic matals are iron cobalt and nickle..
 
too much nickle? Off the top of my head I thought the 3 magnetic matals are iron cobalt and nickle..

lol, really dude dealing with this sort of thing all day you can go over every option and it just becomes a headache, just get some ss or nickel plated and paint them black just swap them out every year or so or check to see if you have any rust forming also a little rubber donut will help as well.
 
too much nickle? Off the top of my head I thought the 3 magnetic matals are iron cobalt and nickle..

You are correct. But stainless steel is non-magnetic when it has enough chromium such as the classic 18/10. (18% Chromium, 10% nickel). Changes the lattice structure of the iron so that it becomes non-magnetic.
 

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