Differential Binding after Lift

That's not binding, that's traction control. Jack up the front end with the wheels off the ground and spin the wheels by hand, may need the rear off the ground too b/c V8, then you would feel bind or not.
 
I'll have to try to do that. Unfortunately my jack and no jacks under like $500 reach my car now and blocks don't allow it to slide so I'll have to have the mechanic check that or build something that'll allow it to slide.
 
I'll have to try to do that. Unfortunately my jack and no jacks under like $500 reach my car now and blocks don't allow it to slide so I'll have to have the mechanic check that or build something that'll allow it to slide.

I use this jack. Right now they have it at $139 and there are always coupons to be found. Works great even with my lift. Has a 23 3/4" lift height. Harbor freight never ceases to amaze me with how good some of the cheaper offerings hold up to my abuse lol
 
I use this jack. Right now they have it at $139 and there are always coupons to be found. Works great even with my lift. Has a 23 3/4" lift height. Harbor freight never ceases to amaze me with how good some of the cheaper offerings hold up to my abuse lol

Seriously bought this beast 2 days ago:yo:

+1
 
Hey guys so I got OME 886 and 895 with bilstein 5100's installed and set at 1.75 about 2 weeks ago. Right after that, when turning especially on hill and while going up hills offroading, VSC would beep and what felt kinda like abs would come on. I took it back to the shop and they said it was my diff binding and I needed a diff drop and that my CV's were leaking. Well I installed it and it still bound or whatever. Now I just put on my CBI front bumper and it is still binding though not as badly.

From what I've read most people don't need/use diff drops due to the negative stock CV angle and people obviously run more than like a 3.25 or so front lift. My question is what on earth is going on :wtf: and how can I fix it.

Problem #1: 886 front coils were probably not the best choice. Those provide roughly 3" of lift with the weight of a heavy bumper and winch on the front end. Regardless of components 3" is the Max you should ever go.

Problem #2: Some how He-Man himself must have come along to assemble these (886 coils) at the 1.75" setting on the shocks!! I am surprised it is even still holding together. Great Holy Loaded Spring Bombs Batman!

At the very least, you need to immediately take those out and reset the clip on the bilsteins to the lowest 0" setting!
 
Problem #1: 886 front coils were probably not the best choice. Those provide roughly 3" of lift with the weight of a heavy bumper and winch on the front end. Regardless of components 3" is the Max you should ever go.



Problem #2: Some how He-Man himself must have come along to assemble these (886 coils) at the 1.75" setting on the shocks!! I am surprised it is even still holding together. Great Holy Loaded Spring Bombs Batman!



At the very least, you need to immediately take those out and reset the clip on the bilsteins to the lowest 0" setting!


Will do but from everything I read 886 are the best choice for a v8 with bumper and a lot of stuff said they were like 2" lift. I wish ARB would give honest numbers that are easy to find.
 
Okay so I got the Bilsteins set down to 0" and the Stealership charged me $140 to do a zero point calibration but I thought everything was solved. I was driving around my block yesterday and then what I believe is ATRAC came on again.

Please help me it seems that no one else has this problem and I'm so tired of worrying about it.
 
If it's any consolation:

I have a different setup but ran into the flashing lights and beeping on turns (usually uneven turns) as well. I was recommended a zero-point cal. It certainly helped, but I will still occasionally get some beeping on 1 particular uneven, slow, sharp turn I make into work.

My thoughts are that a zero-cal may need to be performed again when I have the recommended long straight away to drive on.

Not sure if it matters or not. Also, you don't need to pay somebody to do it. 1 paper clip, 10 minutes of reading (30 if you want to be thorough) and 3 minutes of actual work and you'll have it done. I plan to do mine in a parking lot in the near future.

Search around for zero-point info. I think I used the 5th gen procedure (maybe found on the other 4runner forum:lalala:, though I prefer this one:biggrin2:), but just didn't do the DAC or crawl control steps. To sum it up, I used a paperclip to short two terminal (4 and 12? maybe), repeatedly (insert, remove, insert remove, maybe 5 times?). There are probably a couple other steps in there, but that should help you find what you need to.
 
Not sure if it matters or not. Also, you don't need to pay somebody to do it. 1 paper clip, 10 minutes of reading (30 if you want to be thorough) and 3 minutes of actual work and you'll have it done. I plan to do mine in a parking lot in the near future.

Search around for zero-point info. I think I used the 5th gen procedure (maybe found on the other 4runner forum:lalala:, though I prefer this one:biggrin2:), but just didn't do the DAC or crawl control steps. To sum it up, I used a paperclip to short two terminal (4 and 12? maybe), repeatedly (insert, remove, insert remove, maybe 5 times?). There are probably a couple other steps in there, but that should help you find what you need to.

I'll echo this, super easy with a couple of paperclips.

Youtube link to an '04, my guess is that this should work for 05+, but might some changes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55XmiSsGQgo

Make sure you are on level ground and the general recommendation is not to rock the car while doing it.
 
How much did you buys pay for the HF jacks (2/4 ton)? I have been meaning to get a set. HF always has sales and 20-25% coupons you can use. Anybody use the Arcan jack from Costco? Any issues with any of these jacks. Heard they squeal and leak sooner or later. Thanks!
 
I'm pretty sure the member wishbone solved your problem weeks ago in this thread. Sounds like to me is that "binding noise" and beep, is your traction control kicking on. Mine does the same thing, I have a 3 inch lift and 275/70/18s , even tho I moved my fender liners forward , if I'm turning and hit a bump or rock , my tires will rub and for whatever reason that kicks my traction control on. I guess that can be described as a binding feeling. I would turn my steering wheel as far as I could both ways and see what's the closet object my tire is near and I bet there is rubbing marks on it.
 
I'm pretty sure the member wishbone solved your problem weeks ago in this thread. Sounds like to me is that "binding noise" and beep, is your traction control kicking on. Mine does the same thing, I have a 3 inch lift and 275/70/18s , even tho I moved my fender liners forward , if I'm turning and hit a bump or rock , my tires will rub and for whatever reason that kicks my traction control on. I guess that can be described as a binding feeling. I would turn my steering wheel as far as I could both ways and see what's the closet object my tire is near and I bet there is rubbing marks on it.

Yea I figured out it was ATRAC the binding noise I realised was abs w/o my foot on the break. It easily could be traction control coming on but I won't know until I hit some trails.
 
I know some 4Runners are 4wd/swd whereas mine is all time 4wd. Will that change the process.


I did mine on the V8 which is full time awd/4wd. Worked without issues

I get a binding feel on mine post-lift, 90% sure it is due to insufficient castor (1.5°). Driver side CV binds on full droop, got it replaced about a year ago before lifting, wondering they didn't use OEM parts
 
I did mine on the V8 which is full time awd/4wd. Worked without issues

I get a binding feel on mine post-lift, 90% sure it is due to insufficient castor (1.5°). Driver side CV binds on full droop, got it replaced about a year ago before lifting, wondering they didn't use OEM parts

Hmm good to know.
 

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