Dimmer Switch Broke

[Jones25261]

So after successfully getting upgrading some bulbs to led's in the dash/instrument gauge

I've somehow ripped the green wire in half that was connecting the dimmer switch, and now all my newly placed LEDs don't work. Im now at a standstill on how I can get this fixed?


2002 4Runner *Badlands Edition

 

[Skulking]

So after successfully getting upgrading some bulbs to led's in the dash/instrument gauge

I've somehow ripped the green wire in half that was connecting the dimmer switch, and now all my newly placed LEDs don't work. Im now at a standstill on how I can get this fixed?


2002 4Runner *Badlands Edition

The right way would be strip back both ends of the wire and solder it back together then put heat shrink around the exposed wire. Given the difficulty of getting a soldering iron in there, a butt connector would probably be the simplest solution.

Edit: Taking a closer look at that picture, it looks like there is a t-tap running off of the wire. That's not stock. Did you install the t-tap, or do you know what it is connected too? You're going to need to get that figured out and make sure you either remove it if it is unneeded, or include wiring that in if it is needed. It looks like the t-tap probably weakened the wire which is why it broke.

 

[Jones25261]

The right way would be strip back both ends of the wire and solder it back together then put heat shrink around the exposed wire. Given the difficulty of getting a soldering iron in there, a butt connector would probably be the simplest solution.

Edit: Taking a closer look at that picture, it looks like there is a t-tap running off of the wire. That's not stock. Did you install the t-tap, or do you know what it is connected too? You're going to need to get that figured out and make sure you either remove it if it is unneeded, or include wiring that in if it is needed. It looks like the t-tap probably weakened the wire which is why it broke.

I know the truck had a previous owner before but from what I remember there wasn’t any modifications to the truck I have no clue what it would be hooked up to exactly?

The only thing I got installed was a 3rd party security system which I assume shouldn’t be connected to it?

I’m not too savvy when it comes to wiring but I have two questions

1. Is there any idea why a t tap would be placed on the dim switch

2. In order to figure out what it does is there a specific process I should follow

 

[TheDurk]

I know the truck had a previous owner before but from what I remember there wasn’t any modifications to the truck I have no clue what it would be hooked up to exactly?

The only thing I got installed was a 3rd party security system which I assume shouldn’t be connected to it?

I’m not too savvy when it comes to wiring but I have two questions

1. Is there any idea why a t tap would be placed on the dim switch

2. In order to figure out what it does is there a specific process I should follow

1. The green wire is a source wire for 12V+ from the TAIL fuse, that powers up when the stalk switch is set to TAIL or HEAD. Typically you would tap it to power low wattage interior lights or as a relay trigger for higher power exterior lights. It can also be a trigger for aftermarket displays, such as head units, to dim at night. I'm not knowledgeable on alarms, but I can't think why that would use such a tap.

2. There is no real procedure for tracing aftermarket butchery other than the obvious.

--see what it goes to. It won't disappear into a harness (usually) so this often can be done. It often will be taped or zip-tied to the outside of a factory harness.
--take an inventory of anything aftermarket that comes on with the lights.
--figure out what's not working at night with the headlights on.

What you can do is check the resistance to ground of the tap wire (when disconnected from the green wire) with everything powered on If it's infinite (open), whatever it was connected to was probably removed. Then just leave it disconnected.

 

[phattyduck]

That connection would be used to flash the parking lights when the alarm is activated/deactivated. (if that does go to an aftermarket alarm)

Fix the wire, move on...

-Charlie

 

[Malcolm99]

Those "vampire taps" or t tap are the worst, to tight and they sever the wire as pictured, to lose and the don't work, cut and strip all three ends run 2 beside each other and twist them together so electricals flow straight, test operation, insure shrink tubing is in place, solder and heat shrink it.

 

[TheDurk]

That connection would be used to flash the parking lights when the alarm is activated/deactivated. (if that does go to an aftermarket alarm)

Fix the wire, move on...

-Charlie

Yup, I didn't think about backfeeding to the parking lights. Like I said, I don't do alarms. That has to be it. Of all the 103 places to tap that circuit, that has to be one of the worst.