ralatkins
Member
I've had this kit sitting on my desk for about 3 weeks now and can not talk myself into feeling like I know how to do this shit. I'm not into the wiring stuff much and this is WAY outside my wheelhouse.
DIY Big 3 Wiring Upgrade Kit
- Thread starter 4Running Daily
- Start date
I've had this kit sitting on my desk for about 3 weeks now and can not talk myself into feeling like I know how to do this shit. I'm not into the wiring stuff much and this is WAY outside my wheelhouse.
GangsterOfLove
New member
I'm glad this thread came back around. Very interesting.
I have no need for the kit but I might put one in just to get that cool terminal with the built in voltmeter. :thumb:
I have no need for the kit but I might put one in just to get that cool terminal with the built in voltmeter. :thumb:
01thunder
New member
a lot of reading to do and i am confused. as i am considering this upgrade, will someone post photos of what has been done? fuse box cables, run to starter, etc. do they get replaced or just run the new ones next to the old ones? i am visual and learn and understand with photos better.
are there any ready made kits available instead of having to measure and cut and solder and stuff?
are there any ready made kits available instead of having to measure and cut and solder and stuff?
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Bandit Runner
Senior Member
Thanks for the response. I guess I'm concerned about the wiring protection that the OEM harness provides. I would hate to lose that protection for the new wires. Especially where the starter wire gets routed around the oil pan. There is a hard plastic container (as part of the OEM harness) that the starter wire fits into. If I didn't put the new starter wire in that plastic container, would the heat from the oil pan damage the new wire?
How did you protect your new wires from heat, abrasion, etc?
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Bry838
New member
You guys that are concerned about or confused with the install procedures just click on that tacoma world link. There is lots of info in there. Pictures included.
The install is very easy and pretty straight forward when you have the kit in front of you. Its not overwhelming at all even for novic electrical guys. Really, its an easy install.
@Bumper2BumperAuto
The install is very easy and pretty straight forward when you have the kit in front of you. Its not overwhelming at all even for novic electrical guys. Really, its an easy install.
@Bumper2BumperAuto
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DK327
Member
I'm thinking of getting the 160A alt as well, and upgrade my batt to Interstate Mega-Tron Plus (1000CA, 800CCA) do you think I can leave the stock wiring intact? I don't have a winch or high power stereo amp but am running ham radio with 100W amp, was thinking about being able to handle up to 450W amp which needs 50A @ 12V... Thanks!
Scramble
New member
If I were you I'd run a larger gauge cable from the Alt to the battery. You would have no cable from the alt to the fuse box only the stock wire from the battery to the fuse box which should be fine. This all on page 2 of this thread, I'm no electrician but I did take a few electrical classes in high school 30 years ago. :bigok:
Idk what happened to him either, can't get a hold of him.
Can I just buy this kit and have my mechanic do the upgrade?
(I think 3foot is enough)
2 AWG Big 3 Upgrade Kit for Top Post Batteries – CE Auto Electric Supply I believe these are pure copper not cca
Dom8706
New member
If you are doing the full big 3 you will definitely need more than 3 feet. It seems really intimidating at first but really you are just replacing or adding a couple of wires really. Here is the guide i followed.
The kit you linked seems like it would work. Some people like to add a bigger wire going from battery positive to the starter also.
If i recall correctly he stopped making the kit a while ago.
It's funny b/c since I made the original post I've been reading up more on it and it seems like there is some actual debate around not only whether this is beneficial but whether it might actually be dangerous. I'm holding off on everything but increased the ground wire gauge for now, since, even though there is some debate of the efficacy of that part, there doesn't seem to be any opinions that it is dangerous
I've been interested in doing this for a while. Your post made me look around to see why it might be dangerous, and a quick search doesn't come up with anything. I can't see how upgrading the wiring could be dangerous. Can you provide a link, or any more information on why you think it might be a bad idea?
Dom8706
New member
Yeah the ground wire should be replaced with a bigger gauge either way as most would agree its too small. A lot of people who get the CS144 alternator upgrade or bigger/dual battery do the big three. I dont think ive heard of anything dangerous happening from this upgrade. As long as everything is done right youd be good to go.
So select the 4 feet option in my link then or good with 3ft?
I think the kit has it proportioned so you're only selecting the longest part.
As far as the whole adding vs replacing. Can't I just replace them so it's the same path but better wiring?
I am keeping the stock denso alternator for now. Got my AGM 24F Northstar battery.
Dom8706
New member
Sorry i was thinking total length needed including starter to bat. I think for me i used about 9 feet total for everything. But yes three feet for the alt to bat is enough.
As far as adding on verse replacing. Electricity will take the path of least resistance. So it doesnt really matter what you choose honestly. Its going to favor the new wiring path. It would be a PITA to remove the old wiring completely. People just tuck the old wiring terminals somewhere safe and run the new wiring along the old. Or just place the new wiring terminals on top of the old ones.
On the first page of this thread, starting w/ post # 7.
A further detailed discussion is here:
Performing the "Big 3" Wiring Ugrade on a 3rd Gen T4R - A How To
Mighty Buffalo
Member
Not exactly sure what happened, but it sounds like he took on more orders than he was able to fulfill, and he ran into some personal legal trouble. TW I think banned him for not fulfilling orders.
That being said, I would NOT buy his kit if I had to do it over. The terminals he provided wouldn't fit, I ended up buying a new set. The cable from the battery to the fuse block I guess he ran out of red, so he subbed black. I think that's poor workmanship, but he also used CCA, which over time has corroded and become brittle at the end. He should have used ferrules for the ends that are getting crimped, but didn't. The end result was that I had an electrical gremlin with some issue of the fuse block not getting sufficient voltage/power. On top of that, from what I understand there is now no fusible link between the battery and fuse block, so there is a potential (albeit improbable) issue of overpowering the fuse block.
If I still had my stock wiring, I'd go back to it in a second. At some point in the future, I'll be redoing all this work.
Malcolm99
Member
Honestly I think this mod is not required until you get a 200amp alt which is also not required, I've been running dual batteries, m8000 winch, full hydraulic plow with power pack, 1000w inverter and use to plow all over town, now it just plows my 1/2 mile driveway and never gets a chance for good charge driving down the road so I use to let it idle for 10mins after plowing for an hour or 2. I found a draw in the system recently and since I fixed that everything seems fine don't need to let it idle anymore after plowing, plowing sucks WAY more juice than winching. I could use a smaller pulley on the alt or bigger alt since I rarely get up to 2500rpms but seems fine now even at -30* and not being started 5 months out of the year, still on original alt and 2 4yr old stock batteries, the winch and plow get there power from the battery directly and the alt can only charge so much depending on rpms or alt rating, the factory Toyota wiring is sufficient even with upgraded alt and factory 100 amp relay SR5 or the factory 120amp ALT relay on Limited, although your headlights will dim plowing and winching unless you switch the headlights to positive switching but even then your going to see them dim when taxing the battery. I agree more grounds are always better but not required. If you do this a crimp connection is best with a proper crimper and then a bit of solder afterwards for good luck.
HomeGoal Wire Crimper Crimping Tool Cable Lug Crimper Ratchet Wire Crimping Pliers with Cable Cutter for 10 8 64 2 and 1/0 AWG Wire Cable Cutting and Crimping: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
HomeGoal Wire Crimper Crimping Tool Cable Lug Crimper Ratchet Wire Crimping Pliers with Cable Cutter for 10 8 64 2 and 1/0 AWG Wire Cable Cutting and Crimping: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
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