DIY Exhaust Muffler Tail Pipe Replacement

[46runner]

DIY Replacing muffler and tail pipe. 2004 4RUNNER SR5 V8 with 156k miles. I had a bunch of links saved talking about Borla and Magnaflow etc. But when it came time, practicality (Walker) won out















to be continued below...

 

[46runner]

...continued

 

[bht2109]

New 4Runner owner - same old situation

Hey there! Found your post because I basically have the EXACT same issue with my '06 4Runner (tailpipe sheared off at the muffler). 1st time Toyota owner, just purchased this beast with 200K on the odo a few days ago. Couldn't be more pleased.

So I need to pick your brain a bit, if you don't mind (this is a fantastic writeup, btw). I'm fairly handy, but I'm really more of a nuts-and-bolts amateur mechanic (belts and pulleys, thermostat, fluids, alternators, etc). However, I've never tackled an exhaust system, and I REALLY don't want to run off to Meineke with my tail between my legs. Can anyone offer some advice?:

1. Could replacing the catback be tackled by a driveway mechanic like me? From the diagrams, it seems pretty straightforward; tedious, but doable. Just need some pipes, a few bushings, and a few hangers. Is there a part of this that requires a great deal of mechanical skill?

2. What's the best way to research and order parts for Toyotas? I'm used to BMWs (realoem.com is a godsend) with a standard part# system. On sites like ToyotaOverstock.com I've seen both 5 and 10 digit part#s. Can someone please school me on this?

3. Looking to keep the exhaust stock, quiet, and inexpensive. Am I looking for a Walker system, or should I go with someone else's?

Thanks everyone!!

Ben

 

[derekdevasia]

Had a walker exhaust for about a year and a half and had it rust completely through. Wouldn't recommend it.

 

[bht2109]

Had a walker exhaust for about a year and a half and had it rust completely through. Wouldn't recommend it.

Wow. Ok, well given the amount of time I devoted to finding a frame that wasn't rusted through here in the Northeast, hearing that Walkers are rust-prone is a huge red flag!

Any suggestions as to what I should seek out? Borla? What did you end up going with?



Thanks...

 

[46runner]

So I need to pick your brain a bit, if you don't mind (this is a fantastic writeup, btw). I'm fairly handy, but I'm really more of a nuts-and-bolts amateur mechanic (belts and pulleys, thermostat, fluids, alternators, etc). However, I've never tackled an exhaust system, and I REALLY don't want to run off to Meineke with my tail between my legs. Can anyone offer some advice?:

1. Could replacing the catback be tackled by a driveway mechanic like me? From the diagrams, it seems pretty straightforward; tedious, but doable. Just need some pipes, a few bushings, and a few hangers. Is there a part of this that requires a great deal of mechanical skill?

2. What's the best way to research and order parts for Toyotas? I'm used to BMWs (realoem.com is a godsend) with a standard part# system. On sites like ToyotaOverstock.com I've seen both 5 and 10 digit part#s. Can someone please school me on this?

3. Looking to keep the exhaust stock, quiet, and inexpensive. Am I looking for a Walker system, or should I go with someone else's?

Thanks everyone!!

Ben

1. Rusted bolts would be the only regret. Be ready with drill outs.
2. I've ordered parts from Amazon, Rockauto, 4wheelparts, toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com, www.toyotapartsdeal.com
3. Inexpensive is the only reason to go with Walker

 

[bht2109]

1. Rusted bolts would be the only regret. Be ready with drill outs.
2. I've ordered parts from Amazon, Rockauto, 4wheelparts, toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com, www.toyotapartsdeal.com
3. Inexpensive is the only reason to go with Walker

Thanks so much for the info guys. Really appreciated.

Quick follow up: The rusted bolts that you speak of, are they part of the permanent undercarriage, or are they bolts that are simply part of the exhaust that I would've replaced anyway? Are you talking about the bolts that attach the muffler to the cat?

Sorry for the rookie questions - I haven't even been under there yet, and I'm just trying to be as prepared as possible.

 

[Ed_C]

Thanks so much for the info guys. Really appreciated.

Quick follow up: The rusted bolts that you speak of, are they part of the permanent undercarriage, or are they bolts that are simply part of the exhaust that I would've replaced anyway? Are you talking about the bolts that attach the muffler to the cat?

Sorry for the rookie questions - I haven't even been under there yet, and I'm just trying to be as prepared as possible.

Just holds the exhaust together, nothing bolted to the undercarriage. On my 3rd-gen I cut the bolts off with a sawzall,went through several blades in the process. I replaced everything but the tailpipe (was still in good condition) with Walker components, the two cats plus muffler, it's been over two years so far.

 

[bht2109]

Just holds the exhaust together, nothing bolted to the undercarriage. On my 3rd-gen I cut the bolts off with a sawzall,went through several blades in the process. I replaced everything but the tailpipe (was still in good condition) with Walker components, the two cats plus muffler, it's been over two years so far.

That's what I figured. Don't have a sawzall, unfortunately, so I'll just have to rely on prayer and PB Blaster.

So let me ask you this - if my primary concern is rust and overall durability, couldn't I just buy the Walker catback at an economy price and just hose it down with hi-temp rustoleum? Otherwise, I would probably just go with the basic Gibson stainless (#618815). Do cheap exhaust systems perforate/break/etc more readily, or are they less expensive because of performance & noise issues (which I don't really care about - it's a 200K-mile grocery getter)?

Additionally, can the tailpipe be fed through the subframe with the wheels on the ground, or does the whole rig have to be in the air? It looks like a puzzle under there. I have jack stands, but they might not be enough.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Ed_C]

That's what I figured. Don't have a sawzall, unfortunately, so I'll just have to rely on prayer and PB Blaster.

You should be alright actually. Luckily there's only two bolts to remove, the two at the converter flange/muffler inlet, I wouldn't even worry about saving them and just let them break off if it happens. You're not saving the muffler anyway so you won't have to drill anything.

So let me ask you this - if my primary concern is rust and overall durability, couldn't I just buy the Walker catback at an economy price and just hose it down with hi-temp rustoleum? Otherwise, I would probably just go with the basic Gibson stainless (#618815). Do cheap exhaust systems perforate/break/etc more readily, or are they less expensive because of performance & noise issues (which I don't really care about - it's a 200K-mile grocery getter)?

That's what I did; sprayed the components with some high-temp engine paint from a previous project, let dry overnight, then installed. OEM replacement systems are less expensive because they're just cheaper to manufacture (mild steel instead of aluminized or stainless, crush-bent pipes, mufflers crimped together instead of welded) the cheaper manufacturing also make it less durable. I'm cleaning my 3rd-gen's interior at the moment, I'll take a look underneath to see how the Walker parts are fairing.

How much is the basic Gibson stainless exhaust anyway?

Additionally, can the tailpipe be fed through the subframe with the wheels on the ground, or does the whole rig have to be in the air? It looks like a puzzle under there. I have jack stands, but they might not be enough.

Can't say on a 4th-gen, the exhaust on mine is still ok I think you can feed the tailpipe without jacking anything up on a 4th, only reason I put my 3rd on jack stands was for more room to use the sawzall.

 

[46runner]

Ben, if you have an '06 I'd guess it's the original muffler. If so, I don't think PB Blaster will save you. As others have said the bolts connecting to the cat will need to be replaced anyway, so you can saw those out, but (don't recall all the details) I also had to drill them out in addition to using a wheel cutter to saw them. Caution: those compression springs will decompress and shoot off when you cut off the bolts.

Painting the new muffler with high temp paint can help its durability. I've been meaning to do so. And jack up the car if you can because you'll need the room to work under there. If you're unsure, you can always take the parts to a local mechanic, and pay for an hour of labor.

 

[Zuke]

I went to local custom exhaust place. They welded it back together and charged me $40... It's held for two years now.

 

[derekdevasia]

Wow. Ok, well given the amount of time I devoted to finding a frame that wasn't rusted through here in the Northeast, hearing that Walkers are rust-prone is a huge red flag!

Any suggestions as to what I should seek out? Borla? What did you end up going with?



Thanks...

I got very lucky in that i found a stainless steel borla on craigslist. I don't think Borla makes theirs anymore for our 4runners, but a lot of people here use Gibson's SS. Very affordable too.

 

[bht2109]

Thanks again for all the responses guys. Very educational.

So it is now apparent that other things are going to suck money out of the budget (new front axle shafts, rear shocks, gotta source a replacement sunroof that doesn't cost $500), so I think I'm going to go with the Walker/Rustoleum route. Happily, the cat/muffler connection doesn't look TOO bad; it's the muffler/tailpipe connection that looks truly gnarly:

Anyway, just put 4 new tires on her and she drives like a dream. I can't believe how sturdy this beast is at 200K, even with the list of things I gotta do to her. Once my T4R account allows me to post new threads, I'll hopefully start a running build thread that outlines:
-New front axles
-New rear shocks
-New spark plugs
-New replacement sunroof (damn, those moulding/gaskets are a pain!)
-New front rotors + brake bleed
-Diff & transfer case fluid refresh
-Front tire pressure sensors
-The old "What's That Whine Coming From The Engine?" game

Man, that's some pretty basic stuff! I can't believe that I just bought a vehicle that basically only needs a tune-up and a mild suspension refresh at 200K!!!

Again, thanks again for all your help guys!

Ben

 

[BADCUDA1]

Had a walker exhaust for about a year and a half and had it rust completely through. Wouldn't recommend it.

Did you have the Walker Stainless Steel system?

 

[bht2109]

Did you have the Walker Stainless Steel system?

Are you asking me? If so: no, I believe my catback is stock (but I can't really be sure. Just bought the car a week ago from an indifferent Ford dealership, who didn't care about its history).

Yeah, I saw that quote elsewhere, and it worries me. That's why I'm going to cover it in rustoleum before installation. Three coats

 

[BADCUDA1]

Are you asking me? If so: no, I believe my catback is stock (but I can't really be sure. Just bought the car a week ago from an indifferent Ford dealership, who didn't care about its history).

Yeah, I saw that quote elsewhere, and it worries me. That's why I'm going to cover it in rustoleum before installation. Three coats

my question was more aimed at derekdevasia as quoted comments about the walker system.

The walker system cat back to tail pipe is stainless but the tail pipe is steel. about $225.00 the Gibson kit can be had for 375 delivered well worth the extra cost.

the only complete system in stainless steel for a 4Runner is one from Gibson.

your wasting time and money painting an exhaust system.

If you don't want to do it again for a while go stainless it's the only option. The OEM system is Stainless they last a while but not forever.

 

[derekdevasia]

Nope. Just the basic one.

 

[Supersonic]

Anyway, just put 4 new tires on her and she drives like a dream. I can't believe how sturdy this beast is at 200K, ... I can't believe that I just bought a vehicle that basically only needs a tune-up and a mild suspension refresh at 200K!!!

With you there, 3 weeks ago $2k for 2005 SR5 4.0 4x4 294k, after a little service work it runs like mint! From New Mexico, so there's no rust problem. Next best thing to winning big money in a lottery! Made in Japan quality! This one was serviced regularly at a dealer too, new radiator and thermostat, brakes, rear window, spark plugs and tires are nearly new.

Dealer up here (Mn) wholesaled it and I must have been the first and the rest were too late. And the 'little old lady' story was true, my buddy was there and seen it come in, visiting her relatives, they talked her into trading it in on a new Subaru.

Funny thing is I wasn't going to go look at it, Saturday morning I walked out of a garage sale to see a 4Runner, thought wouldn't that be cool, and figured why not just go look(because you look, you end up buying...).

Earlier I had the VIN from their ad plugged it into mycarfax.com and vehiclehistory.com, seen it was serviced regularly and from NM but I wasn't going to go look at it because of the mileage. You can also go to toyota.com and get an account and plug in your VIN too. Glad I changed my mind. I'm happy for you too because I know that feeling, I would have never afforded this luxury unless it all fell into place like it did.

Kinda rambled on here, but back to the mufflers, ahh, hope my stainless last, right now I think I'm about $200 into the rest, trans filter and coolant temp sensor was $80 of that, I'm not really into this much, but (he's still rambling) I would value mine at $9500, cause I wouldn't take any less.

 

[chopper1]

I want to raise a stock 03 4runner on a lift (from the frame, not the rear axle). Lifting from the frame rails means the rear axle will sag under it's own weight. Will it sag enough to damage lines connected to it? or do I need to chain it to the frame first.
Bill
in Oregon