I ended up pulling the trigger on a SC last week from Toytec - ordered it Tuesday and was at my door Thursday. Awesome for those who make impulse purchases :bounce:
Anywho, my build is one of those not your typical 4Runners and after reading through the install guide I figured I better do it myself. That way I could spend the time to work through whatever issues I encountered. I also documented some steps I found confusing or needing correction but rest assured the install guide is amazing and will get you through the install no problem.
Before really unboxing anything I did the pre-requisite of downloading my ECU's info onto the handheld tuner to send to Magnuson. I've read that some had issues with the software/tuner so it's best to get this step out of the way before proceeding. I sent my file to Magnuson Thrusday around 10pm PT and got the modified file the next morning promptly before 9am PT.
I was also asked to provide log files after flashing my ECU with the modified file which is easy to do. I opted to wait until I finished installing the SC and sent the logs after flashing my ECU to Magnuson Sunday night and got a reply again Monday morning.
Everything you need... *Sort of* I did order the following from amazon and mcmaster (links below). Everything was individually bagged in a Ikea like fashion and the install guide was written very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS - Torque Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XDBBG - Crank Bolt Removal Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P8LQ1C - Loctite
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M1R5UA - Antisieze
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/124/3221 - Extended bolts for the crank remover tool
https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Tools-FEMALE-TORX-SOCKET/dp/B015IT03AE - ETORX
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-9409A-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW - *Nice to have*
Step 28
Had a little trouble with step 28. The way to release the clips was actually hidden by the electric tape.
Step 37
Step 37 said E5 but it’s really an E8. Likely a typo on their end
About here I started to realize I was taking off quite a bit of hardware so I began bagging and tagging parts. Surprisingly a lot of hardware removed does not get reused so doing this is good in case you ever want to go back.
Step 49
Step 49 needs a E6. That’s not in the guide
I dreaded this part only because coming from honda's loosening this bolt would sound like you snapped the bolt straight off. Surprisingly it came off quite easily! The install guide shows they used an electric impact wrench and I believe it now! To take it off I used the crank tool with a breaker bar pressed against the radiator support combined with another wrench to take the nut off.
Step 111,172 should really be combined IF you have the air recirculation EPA stuff installed. If not you'll find yourself unbolting stuff and possibly removing the belt again. Also the supplied 10.9 M8x70 bolt is too long which requires cutting. I couldn't find any alternative online so I took my dremmel and knocked a few mm off.
Another thing is the bracket is mean to use zip ties to secure the air recirculation hose, however, you can actually drill out the rivet for the hose holder and bolt one in to give it a cleaner OEM look.
This is where things started going slow. The recommended location for the reservoir doesn’t work since I have the Power tray bracket to support the SPOD and a few others. To fix this I made a custom bracket which attached to the powertrays. The one in the pic is a rough cut but I'll have a much nicer one in a few days from the laser cutting shop.
Another problem was mounting the pump since I have the Pelfrey front bumper and Warn winch. Solving this involved cutting the supplied bracket for the coolant pump and fixing it to the bolts that the bumper mounts to. There's really no other way to fit the pump securely AND be able to route the hose since the radiator's pipe is bent downward. I should also add that I didn't route the hose around the battery as instructed because of the group 31 battery and powertrays.
