DIY lift gate lock assembly
- Thread starter oblivionis
- Start date
blakjack23
New member
Mine (07 sport) started acting up last year. I found that if you push on the Toyota emblem on the rear gate while activating the 'open' button then it will open fine. Kinda weird. I will probably take my rear panel off soon to see if I can make a permanent fix for it....i.e....jam something in there to replicate my pushing on the Toyota logo.
4Runner Rear lift gate (tailgate) lock mechanism replacement repair DIY summary
CAR: 2003 4Runner SR5
ISSUE: Broken rear lift gate lock (does not lock--tries to electronically lock but lock will not engage)
HISTORY: One random day, I tried to close my rear lift gate and it would NOT close. The mechanism would try to lock electronically and it just would not latch no matter how I try to close it. Slamming definitely does not work. Nonetheless, I ended up closing the rear lift gate with a pull strap and attaching it one of the tie down loops. After a few days, I tried the rear lift gate door again, and it started working. Not wanting to have the rear door open suddenly some day or have it not lock again, I pre-emptively replaced the rear door lock (Toyota Part # 69110-35090; the latest part number as of this posting; purchased on eBay for $160 from Global Parts Warehouse). I thought I'd write this as a concise summary of previous postings and to make things as clear as possible. Read the original post for great pictures of the process.
TOOLS NEEDED
10mm socket and ratchet
Wide flat head screwdriver (long--works pretty good) or a plastic trim removal kit (preferred method; see notes below)
Thin, small flat head screwdriver [harness disconnecting]
Optional: razor blade, duct tape (rear plastic repair)
FIX SUMMARY (time needed: approximatley 45 minutes)
1. Rolled up all of the windows (front driver's and rear lift gate were most important, and if you have a sunroof, close it).
2. Open up the rear lift gate.
3. IMPORTANT STEP: Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. I had to also disconnect the grounding bolt as the fit to the negative terminal was a bit tight. This step is important for reintializing the car ECU at later step so it recoginizes the new lock. Record your favorite radio stations so you can reprogram them later. The battery must be disconnected for at least 10 minutes, and don't reconnect the battery until your new lock has been installed for it to be recognized properly.
4. Pop off the black pastic cover on the lower edge of the rear lift gate door that covers the lock mechanism. Use a wide tape covered screwdriver (to avoid scratches to the paint), and pop out the middle of the cover at the outer edge, bottom edge that is most closest to the inside of the cabin (when the door is closed). Even better is to use a kit from Harbor Freight tools (Part #67021 )--I used the edge that has a wedged lip to do this.
5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set
5. Remove the three lower bolts on the lock that were revealed from step 4.
6. Remove the small plastic cover that is over the rear door strap by popping the cover off from the upper edge. Use this image as guide for the next few steps:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/600822-post4.html
7. Remove the bolt that holds the rear door strap (a 10mm socket).
8. Pop off the large main rear liftgate plastic panel cover by pulling up on the panel (held by 10 clips). Use one of the flat trim removal tools (or covered screwdriver) to help you get started. Start at the lower middle of the panel (by the lock mechanism) and work in a flat trim removal tool (or screwdriver) and pop up the panel. Work your way along the trim to get the panel clips up sequentially. No need to remove the whole rear cover or panel weatherstripping near the top, just pop the clips out and let the panel hang so you get enough clearance. See diagram post in 6 for a guide.
9. Disconnect the rear lift gate lock wiring harness. Once the plastic rear trim (step 8) is lifted off enough for clearance, you'll see the wiring harness for the lock on the driver's side of the lift gate frame. One side of the harness has a locking tab--push a small, thin, flathead screw driver in there to push the tab in while you slide out the wiring harness to the door lock.
10. Remove the lower part of plastic cover sheet from the metal frame. Carefully pull the plastic cover off (mostly on the the lower edge), while separately the pliable rubberized weatherstrip cement with either a thin, blunt screwdriver (or if you're really careful, a blade). Don't cut the plastic cover, just separate it from the frame by cutting/splitting the weatherstrip. You'll be retacking this back on so be careful with the plastic sheet (you can always use duct tape for repairs, but try to miniize the damage. You only need to remove enough weatherstrip so you can get access to the door lock and to slide it out to remove it.
11. Remove the cable clip. On the white door lock plastic enclosure, you'll see a floating black covered cable that's held by a plastic clip (has 2 pressure side tabs), and that clip goes into the door lock enclosure. Use needle nose pliers (or a flat head screwdriver) to push in the side tabs of the clip so it releases and you can remove the plastic clip from the white plastic lock enclosure.
12. Remove the rear lift gate frame bolt that goes to the back of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism and enclosure is now free.
13. Remove the door lock mechanism. You'll need to loosen the wiring harness rubber grommet to the door frame before you can remove the lock, and slide it under the plastic sheet.
14. Install the new door lock. Remove the string on the new door lock before the install (or leave it hanging as it's a relase for the lock, so you can test it before actually closing and locking the door--but there is no real need to leave the string). For reinstall, follow steps backward from 13 to 4.
15. IMPORTANT STEP: Reinitialize the rear door lock computer. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Turn key to "ON" position, but do not start car. Then follow the next set of sequences:
16. Test the new rear lift gate. With the car still on, go to the back tailgate and open it--it should work like a charm.
17. Reprogram your radio stations if you haven't done so (tune in the station you want, then push and hold which memory preset button you for a few seconds, and it will keep the station in memory). Enjoy!
Notes: For reinitializing and recognizing the newly installed rear lift gate lock, some people have been able to just disconnect the main power wiring harness to their rear lift gate ECU for 10 minutes and reconnecting it after connecting in the new rear lift gate lock, and they were able to avoid step 3 and 15 (battery disconnect, reconnect method). I initially replaced my lock without doing steps 3 and 15 and my new lock didn't work. I had to reinitialize the ECU before it would work. You must reinitialize the ECU whether how I outlined it (battery disconnect method) or disconnecting the rear lift gate ECU power harness. I would imagine that disconnecting the fuse(s) to the rear ECU could work as well (but the fuse block is somewhat non-descript and I am not sure which ones to disconnect).
Nice work to the original poster and those that contributed. My new rear tailgate lock works great.
CAR: 2003 4Runner SR5
ISSUE: Broken rear lift gate lock (does not lock--tries to electronically lock but lock will not engage)
HISTORY: One random day, I tried to close my rear lift gate and it would NOT close. The mechanism would try to lock electronically and it just would not latch no matter how I try to close it. Slamming definitely does not work. Nonetheless, I ended up closing the rear lift gate with a pull strap and attaching it one of the tie down loops. After a few days, I tried the rear lift gate door again, and it started working. Not wanting to have the rear door open suddenly some day or have it not lock again, I pre-emptively replaced the rear door lock (Toyota Part # 69110-35090; the latest part number as of this posting; purchased on eBay for $160 from Global Parts Warehouse). I thought I'd write this as a concise summary of previous postings and to make things as clear as possible. Read the original post for great pictures of the process.
TOOLS NEEDED
10mm socket and ratchet
Wide flat head screwdriver (long--works pretty good) or a plastic trim removal kit (preferred method; see notes below)
Thin, small flat head screwdriver [harness disconnecting]
Optional: razor blade, duct tape (rear plastic repair)
FIX SUMMARY (time needed: approximatley 45 minutes)
1. Rolled up all of the windows (front driver's and rear lift gate were most important, and if you have a sunroof, close it).
2. Open up the rear lift gate.
3. IMPORTANT STEP: Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. I had to also disconnect the grounding bolt as the fit to the negative terminal was a bit tight. This step is important for reintializing the car ECU at later step so it recoginizes the new lock. Record your favorite radio stations so you can reprogram them later. The battery must be disconnected for at least 10 minutes, and don't reconnect the battery until your new lock has been installed for it to be recognized properly.
4. Pop off the black pastic cover on the lower edge of the rear lift gate door that covers the lock mechanism. Use a wide tape covered screwdriver (to avoid scratches to the paint), and pop out the middle of the cover at the outer edge, bottom edge that is most closest to the inside of the cabin (when the door is closed). Even better is to use a kit from Harbor Freight tools (Part #67021 )--I used the edge that has a wedged lip to do this.
5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set
5. Remove the three lower bolts on the lock that were revealed from step 4.
6. Remove the small plastic cover that is over the rear door strap by popping the cover off from the upper edge. Use this image as guide for the next few steps:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/600822-post4.html
7. Remove the bolt that holds the rear door strap (a 10mm socket).
8. Pop off the large main rear liftgate plastic panel cover by pulling up on the panel (held by 10 clips). Use one of the flat trim removal tools (or covered screwdriver) to help you get started. Start at the lower middle of the panel (by the lock mechanism) and work in a flat trim removal tool (or screwdriver) and pop up the panel. Work your way along the trim to get the panel clips up sequentially. No need to remove the whole rear cover or panel weatherstripping near the top, just pop the clips out and let the panel hang so you get enough clearance. See diagram post in 6 for a guide.
9. Disconnect the rear lift gate lock wiring harness. Once the plastic rear trim (step 8) is lifted off enough for clearance, you'll see the wiring harness for the lock on the driver's side of the lift gate frame. One side of the harness has a locking tab--push a small, thin, flathead screw driver in there to push the tab in while you slide out the wiring harness to the door lock.
10. Remove the lower part of plastic cover sheet from the metal frame. Carefully pull the plastic cover off (mostly on the the lower edge), while separately the pliable rubberized weatherstrip cement with either a thin, blunt screwdriver (or if you're really careful, a blade). Don't cut the plastic cover, just separate it from the frame by cutting/splitting the weatherstrip. You'll be retacking this back on so be careful with the plastic sheet (you can always use duct tape for repairs, but try to miniize the damage. You only need to remove enough weatherstrip so you can get access to the door lock and to slide it out to remove it.
11. Remove the cable clip. On the white door lock plastic enclosure, you'll see a floating black covered cable that's held by a plastic clip (has 2 pressure side tabs), and that clip goes into the door lock enclosure. Use needle nose pliers (or a flat head screwdriver) to push in the side tabs of the clip so it releases and you can remove the plastic clip from the white plastic lock enclosure.
12. Remove the rear lift gate frame bolt that goes to the back of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism and enclosure is now free.
13. Remove the door lock mechanism. You'll need to loosen the wiring harness rubber grommet to the door frame before you can remove the lock, and slide it under the plastic sheet.
14. Install the new door lock. Remove the string on the new door lock before the install (or leave it hanging as it's a relase for the lock, so you can test it before actually closing and locking the door--but there is no real need to leave the string). For reinstall, follow steps backward from 13 to 4.
15. IMPORTANT STEP: Reinitialize the rear door lock computer. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Turn key to "ON" position, but do not start car. Then follow the next set of sequences:
- a. The driver's side window "AUTO" switch will be flashing (i.e. "not initialized"). Roll down the driver's side window all the way down. Hold the up button to roll up the driver's side window until it closes--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes, the "AUTO" light will illuminate steadily.
- b. [Only if you have a sunroof]. Open up the sunrooff all the way. Close the sunroof all the way by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.
- c. Lower the rear liftgate window all the way. Raise the rear liftgate window all the way up by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.
- d. Start the car and leave it on.
16. Test the new rear lift gate. With the car still on, go to the back tailgate and open it--it should work like a charm.
17. Reprogram your radio stations if you haven't done so (tune in the station you want, then push and hold which memory preset button you for a few seconds, and it will keep the station in memory). Enjoy!
Notes: For reinitializing and recognizing the newly installed rear lift gate lock, some people have been able to just disconnect the main power wiring harness to their rear lift gate ECU for 10 minutes and reconnecting it after connecting in the new rear lift gate lock, and they were able to avoid step 3 and 15 (battery disconnect, reconnect method). I initially replaced my lock without doing steps 3 and 15 and my new lock didn't work. I had to reinitialize the ECU before it would work. You must reinitialize the ECU whether how I outlined it (battery disconnect method) or disconnecting the rear lift gate ECU power harness. I would imagine that disconnecting the fuse(s) to the rear ECU could work as well (but the fuse block is somewhat non-descript and I am not sure which ones to disconnect).
Nice work to the original poster and those that contributed. My new rear tailgate lock works great.
Last edited:
Adumb
New member
This is what mine was doing. I think the motor disengages to let the mechanical latch hold but the latch wasnt. I tried to save the old lock actuator as well but I ended up buying the new one and it fixed my issue.
lift gate latch sticking
thanks oblivionis your pictorial is first rate. will come in handy when I have to finally " do the deed". I have had similar problems. intermittent to start and this week with the high temps in the teens and 20s it quit working completely. Had to lift snow ballast blocks through the rear window, (ouch). discovered just this morning if I push in on gate while pulling latch it will open every time. This will work 'till I can let go of several $$$ to replace the latch. In Nashville, TN it costs nearly $200 just to find out the problem is the latch motor.
thanks oblivionis your pictorial is first rate. will come in handy when I have to finally " do the deed". I have had similar problems. intermittent to start and this week with the high temps in the teens and 20s it quit working completely. Had to lift snow ballast blocks through the rear window, (ouch). discovered just this morning if I push in on gate while pulling latch it will open every time. This will work 'till I can let go of several $$$ to replace the latch. In Nashville, TN it costs nearly $200 just to find out the problem is the latch motor.
This sounds scary as shit, because the rear area in my truck is used exclusively by my 95 lb dog. I would NOT want the hatch to just open up when he's back there and we are moving.
Thank you for this post, after searching to fix this problem, this worked like a charm. I had a baby stroller component get jammed in the tailgate. Although I was able to pull the stroller component free, the lock mechanism on the tailgate would no longer release even though I could hear the actuator trying to unlock. I was told by mechanics I needed to replace the actuator and bought a new one. I replaced the old one and found that the tailgate would not work at all (i.e. it would neither engage the tailgate lock nor release the tailgate lock). After reading this post, I unplugged both wires and plugged them back in after a couple minutes and it WORKED. I then tried the old one and found that worked also. So turns out the stroller component that jammed caused the door to malfunction and it just needed to be reset. Also of note, after I replaced the actuator and before I reset the ECU, the tailgate will not close all the way. It will engage the initial lock but is very loose. As a result, the FOB key will not allow you to lock the vehicle since it recognizes that the rear hatch is not closed properly.
Last edited:
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
No problem at all, glad to hear it helped
200 hp
New member
Help!
So I've installed the new locking mechanism and the rear hatch will lock but it will not unlock. I've tried disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and also the two plugs on the rear hatch ecu. Not only will the door not open but now my truck is oddly not holding an idle?! I start the engine and it will immediately stall out! :Cry: I didn't touch anything else except the negative terminal, rear hatch ecu, and rear locking mechanism....
So I've installed the new locking mechanism and the rear hatch will lock but it will not unlock. I've tried disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and also the two plugs on the rear hatch ecu. Not only will the door not open but now my truck is oddly not holding an idle?! I start the engine and it will immediately stall out! :Cry: I didn't touch anything else except the negative terminal, rear hatch ecu, and rear locking mechanism....
Disconnect your negative battery terminal (or whatever terminal you originally disconnected). Then clean up both the battery terminal and your connection--make sure all grease and corrosion is off the terminal (use isopropyl alcohol if you have grease on the terminals). Then reconnect up the terminal (making sure no corrosion is present when you do).
BigNuge
New member
My turn...
My rear gate lock quit 2 days ago. A big PITA because it was still being used by my wife (the T4R has become her Winter vehicle) and now she can't use the rear cargo area. Anyway, now I will have to try the reset procedure first...if nothing happens then a new locking mechanism it is.
Suffice to say that this issue has pushed the convertible coming out early...like today.
At least the nice weather is here...finally.
My rear gate lock quit 2 days ago. A big PITA because it was still being used by my wife (the T4R has become her Winter vehicle) and now she can't use the rear cargo area. Anyway, now I will have to try the reset procedure first...if nothing happens then a new locking mechanism it is.
Suffice to say that this issue has pushed the convertible coming out early...like today.
At least the nice weather is here...finally.
200 hp
New member
Disconnected the terminal, cleaned it, and put it back on and it still won't idle. I have an appointment with the stealership tomorrow...
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Must be nice, it's snowing here...
BigNuge
New member
That sucks man...if it snowed here I would have to be medicated...I would be pissed.
We did just cool off though, headed back to averages (50ish).
Thread still paying off!
I ordered a latch replacement from Amazon for $199 including taxes, shipping, etc. It arrived Friday, I put it in today.
It was a breeze!
I did have to replace the bolts holding the key lock, though. When inserting the key about two weeks ago, it fell right into the liftgate
Used two spare bolts, inserted from the outside and used shoulder nuts on the inside. Had to remove 4 nuts on the inside, then pop the moulding off the liftgate first.
Amazingly, none of those bolts broke, shredded the plastic (or whatever) mountings they were in, and didn't even burst into flames!
After installing the new latch, I removed the 'Drk/Lck' fuse, counted to 45, and then removed the 'ECU-2' (I think that was the label) fuse for the same 45 secs.
A couple of lock/unlock, windows up/down for rear and driver's side, and started the vehicle.
Not sure which combo did it, but after the final shutoff/key removal and exit from vehicle, everything worked normally after restarting.
Wanted to say THANKS for the writeup! I hated spending $200 because the rear window leaks water into the gate and the latch won't spring the mechanism properly, but really stoked to have the liftgate back :reddance:
I ordered a latch replacement from Amazon for $199 including taxes, shipping, etc. It arrived Friday, I put it in today.
It was a breeze!
I did have to replace the bolts holding the key lock, though. When inserting the key about two weeks ago, it fell right into the liftgate
Used two spare bolts, inserted from the outside and used shoulder nuts on the inside. Had to remove 4 nuts on the inside, then pop the moulding off the liftgate first.
Amazingly, none of those bolts broke, shredded the plastic (or whatever) mountings they were in, and didn't even burst into flames!
After installing the new latch, I removed the 'Drk/Lck' fuse, counted to 45, and then removed the 'ECU-2' (I think that was the label) fuse for the same 45 secs.
A couple of lock/unlock, windows up/down for rear and driver's side, and started the vehicle.
Not sure which combo did it, but after the final shutoff/key removal and exit from vehicle, everything worked normally after restarting.
Wanted to say THANKS for the writeup! I hated spending $200 because the rear window leaks water into the gate and the latch won't spring the mechanism properly, but really stoked to have the liftgate back :reddance:
Big thanks to this thread. I had the spontaneous rear window explosion (or my wife did) on the highway yesterday. I took it over today for safelite to replace. They said they could not get the rear lock to work, no noise nothing. The guy had to crawl in the back to take the panel off and replace the window. They almost called me back saying they could not do it. Luckily they got the window in and informed me of the issue.
This thread helped me try the easiest thing 1st, which was to disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 45 seconds and reconnect. That is all that was needed to clear the issue for me. My symptoms were just a dead back locking mechanism. Would not make any noise like it was trying at all. I could use the key to roll down the window and it would work the other locks open and closed from the rear key use. As soon as I reconnected the negative battery terminal it immediately started working as normal again.
Also want to thank this thread on the exploding rear window issue: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/probl...ered-spontaneously-while-driving-highway.html
This thread helped me try the easiest thing 1st, which was to disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 45 seconds and reconnect. That is all that was needed to clear the issue for me. My symptoms were just a dead back locking mechanism. Would not make any noise like it was trying at all. I could use the key to roll down the window and it would work the other locks open and closed from the rear key use. As soon as I reconnected the negative battery terminal it immediately started working as normal again.
Also want to thank this thread on the exploding rear window issue: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/probl...ered-spontaneously-while-driving-highway.html
I apologize in advance for my ignorance on the subject, as I have only had my 4 runner for a year or so (I had a Taco for about 10 years). This past weekend as I went to close the rear door of my '07 4runner annnnnd, it wouldn't close. As I inspected further it looked like the latch/lock assembly in the door seized up, for lack of a better word. I sprayed it down with some WD40 and worked at it with a screw driver and it didn't move. My rear door is now being held shut with by a strap attached to the back seat.
Here's my question. Based on the picture I attached below I believe it is the back latch return that is seized up. Is this all part of the rear gate latch that is discussed in this thread? When I search for it on Amazon and other parts sites they all seem to come back to the rear gate latch, but I can't get a good look at it because of the plastic to be sure.
This picture isn't from my truck, but this is what is seized up.
Here's my question. Based on the picture I attached below I believe it is the back latch return that is seized up. Is this all part of the rear gate latch that is discussed in this thread? When I search for it on Amazon and other parts sites they all seem to come back to the rear gate latch, but I can't get a good look at it because of the plastic to be sure.
This picture isn't from my truck, but this is what is seized up.
Attachments
You'll need a whole new rear latch assembly. Here's probably the cheapest source at this time:
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Parts-69110-35090-Latch/dp/B005VWRAIC
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Parts-69110-35090-Latch/dp/B005VWRAIC
Recall issue
This is awesome that we know how to fix it, at least it's not too pricey. Isn't this a massive safety issue? This happenened very sporadically for me until one day when we were driving home on the highway from a ski trip, would have been super pissed if my stuff flew out the back!
Does anyone know of a process that we can start? I don't think Toyota should be making $$ off a defective part replacement.
This is awesome that we know how to fix it, at least it's not too pricey. Isn't this a massive safety issue? This happenened very sporadically for me until one day when we were driving home on the highway from a ski trip, would have been super pissed if my stuff flew out the back!
Does anyone know of a process that we can start? I don't think Toyota should be making $$ off a defective part replacement.
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