DIY lift gate lock assembly

Rear Door Button/Mechanism and Window

Hello all, new to the forum. I just acquired (this is day 3) a 2004 Toyota 4Runner Limited. I noticed that the rear window didn't go all the way down (about 1/3) and began to investigate myself today, upon inspection, I noticed that the last company to replace the rear wiper placed one of the harnesses in the path of the window. Every time the window was coming down it was wearing on this one spot. There didn't appear to be any exposed wires. I figured it was an easy thing to fix, and moved the harness to the correct location.

When I was putting things back together I accidentally set off the alarm trying to plug in the lower locking mechanism connector. (not sure if this is relevant.)

Anyhow, everything back together and initially the locking mechanism wasn't using the automatic lock feature. Leaving it like a locked but not shut door. (Windows working fine at this point,) door button wasn't working and would not release it.

I manually went into the door again from the inside, pulled out the locking mechanism, by manually releasing the lock and opening the door finally. I took it out, cleaned it up and put it back in.

Okay- everything back together again and the door lock mechanism is working. The button is not working. The window down is not working.

I basically just threw my arms up in the air and came inside.

I should mention is about 97 degrees here too, adds to the pressure.

Thanks in advance!
I have some pictures if you want, but they look like a normal backdoor on the t4r.
 
Old thread, but using it I was able to replace my rear latch mechanism today in just a half hour. When I was done, I pulled the ECU-B fuse from the fuse box under the hood, waited 30 seconds, reinstalled it, locked and unlocked the doors via the remote, and it worked. SO NICE. Thanks again T4R.
 
Awesome Post . . .

Great instructions & pics. Thanks Ive been having similar problems for a couple years. I have to push in on the rear tailgate while hitting the release button to get my door open. Ive sprayed it with WD40 a couple times which helps but it also gets dirty faster. I just ordered a new eBay part online for $175. They are easy to find. Search: TOYOTA OEM LIFT TAILGATE LATCH, or search part no: 69110-35090 (same for 03-09 4RUNNERS). Brian
 
I concur...Great Instructions!!!. I am glad that I searched this forum before attempting the repair. It would not have guessed that some type of "programming" would be required for changing the lift gate lock assembly. We had been spraying the lift gate lock assembly with WD40 that was kept in one of the wheel well storage bins.

I purchased the lift gate lock assembly on EBay ($169.48, Part # 69110-35090). It is estimated that removal/programming/installation took 30-40 minutes, but I also replaced the backup camera ($16.99, LeeKooLuu Backup Camera on Amazon). The previous camera was okay until the plastic/polymer lens became "foggy" (discolored) after 1-2 years, but the best feature was no mounting holes had to be drilled since it mounted in place of one of the license plate lights. After some searching, the same mounting style backup camera with a glass lens could not be found for sale. The new backup camera has a glass lens, but a mounting hole had to be drilled into the plastic cover of the license plate light. Hopefully, this new camera will last longer.
 

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If you take your inside panel off the rear hatch, you will see a transparent plastic film covering a huge hole. If you then peel that plastic film back, you will see a white plastic box inside towards the bottom with a smaller white plastic box attached to that at the bottom left. If you remove the smaller white box, it is just a cover to a manual switch/lever. This opens the hatch. If you need pics, I can send them tomorrow. My rear hatch just stopped working and until I find out how to fix this, I just tied a rope to that lever and let it hang over my rear window. I pull that rope to open my hatch. Kinda hard to explain and by no means is a permanent fix but it works for now.


found this 2 videos, it pretty much explains everything.

YouTube

YouTube
 
Good question, I was worried about that too before I started. If you look at the first picture, on the left side of the old part you can see two levers. Pulling on the smaller one opens the latch.

Also, I don't think slamming the gate causes the problem. The part looks and feels very sturdy and solid. I think dirt getting inside the assembly is the problem. And looks like Toyota knows that too because the new part has insulation around the bottom of the new part while the old one did not have that.

I am completely stumped. The small lever on the inside will not open the latch and I am unable to get the door open. Anyone know a solution to this problem??
 
Just happend to me.
Rear tailgate latch has allways worked good.
Sunday it would no longer latch... out of the blue.
Made a motor close sound but would not lock shut.
Tied it shut.
Then it started to work again.
2 days later it pops open pulling out of a parking lot.
...guess i better look into this.

Found this thread.

Pulled it apart... was full of mud, 2-3 cups worth in the tailgate.
Cleaned the latch all up with a toothbrush, brake cleaner and air compressor with a shot of red spray grease to finish it off.

Dang i think its working!

The cover has a hidden tab that you cant see... In pic...yellow circles.
 

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Had the same problem..wouldnt completely latch close and hatch opened when I came off my driveway. It was filthy did a full clean and grease service..no problems since
 
Hi everyone. I referred to this post when my rear hatch closer failed a few years back and found the info from y’all very helpful. I ended up attaching a stainless cable to pull on when I need to open the door. Complete pain to climb into the back to open it but I’m way too cheap to spend a couple hundred bucks on a motor. Seems to me that those levers were placed there to attach a manual handle. My question is has anyone fabricated a handle assembly to easily open the rear hatch?
 
I am having an issue with my rear latch. I installed a new actuator ($200 amazon). It now locks and unlocks (I can hear it working), but only when the key is in the ON position or when the car is running. When I take the key out and hit the lock/unlock, all the doors function as normal but I don't hear anything in the rear hatch working or moving.

I've tried pulling the ECU-B fuse (~5mins) but no luck.

Has anyone else run into this? Or any suggestions?

**Update** I've since used a multimeter to test battery output, all seems well there. However reading the voltage from the MPX door module, I am getting ~2.3V on the ON position / running.
 
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The cover has a hidden tab that you cant see... In pic...yellow circles.

Hi there Derek, thank you for the pictures and apologies for resurrecting the old post. I've been struggling so much to get the actual mechanism out of that plastic cover. Did you have to just pull hard with force or is there any tip/trick you can share so that I don't damage the cover or any of the metal components inside. Thanks so much.
 
Hi there Derek, thank you for the pictures and apologies for resurrecting the old post. I've been struggling so much to get the actual mechanism out of that plastic cover. Did you have to just pull hard with force or is there any tip/trick you can share so that I don't damage the cover or any of the metal components inside. Thanks so much.

Pulls up, hard... is also a small phillips head screw, kinda hidden behind that metal piece on the front.
 
Pulls up, hard... is also a small phillips head screw, kinda hidden behind that metal piece on the front.

I see, thanks. Got that screw. The middle part seems to move fine. The bottom's what's holding it back. So just pulling it as hard as I can seems to be the only way to go, right?
 
I see, thanks. Got that screw. The middle part seems to move fine. The bottom's what's holding it back. So just pulling it as hard as I can seems to be the only way to go, right?

Pull HARD. :)
I just went and looked at it, maybe wiggle and pull.
That little tab really has a good grip on the white cover on.


Found the actuator on ebay for $140.
 
Pull HARD. :)
I just went and looked at it, maybe wiggle and pull.
That little tab really has a good grip on the white cover on.


Found the actuator on ebay for $140.

Great, thanks so much. I'll try wiggling it this time. I was trying to be a little careful to not damage anything, but I don't seem to have an alternative at this point. I'm hoping clean-up and lubrication can fix the issue. I've sprayed it with WD-40 a couple times, and it seemed to work fine for a month or two each time. I know WD-40 is no fix, technically it's not even a lubricant but I didn't really see a point in doing thorough lubrication without having the mechanism fully exposed.
 
This is a really nice thread.
My problem was the lock closed and immediately popped out leaving the door opened.
I took it apart and thoroughly cleaned the lock mechanism with an electronic degreaser and WD40. It worked!
To restart the whole thing you just need to disconnect and reconnect the white connector going to the door ECU (the battery terminals stay untouched).
 
If you take your inside panel off the rear hatch, you will see a transparent plastic film covering a huge hole. If you then peel that plastic film back, you will see a white plastic box inside towards the bottom with a smaller white plastic box attached to that at the bottom left. If you remove the smaller white box, it is just a cover to a manual switch/lever. This opens the hatch. If you need pics, I can send them tomorrow.

Actually, that manual lever only opens the door side of the latch. It does noting if the body side of the latch is the problem like mine.
 
I'm on my second failure now. First was with the gate closed. This time it will not latch. The last time, I replaced it with a knock off from Amazon that cost about $40. That lasted about 7 months...not a great service record. Trying to decide whether to get another $40 one or go with factory. Factory part from an actual dealer is about $250. There's one on Amazon for $148....but who believes this is actually factory part just because a seller on Amazon says so.
 
I'm on my second failure now. First was with the gate closed. This time it will not latch. The last time, I replaced it with a knock off from Amazon that cost about $40. That lasted about 7 months...not a great service record. Trying to decide whether to get another $40 one or go with factory. Factory part from an actual dealer is about $250. There's one on Amazon for $148....but who believes this is actually factory part just because a seller on Amazon says so.

Mine's fixed for now with the $40 Amazon part. We'll see how long it lasts. May have to get a spare at that price in case it goes haywire when I'm on a trip. It's about a 15 minute job with a 10mm socket and a trim puller as the only tools.
 

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