DIY: Power Steering Flush (4th gen specific)

absalom

New member
Just recently picked up a 4th gen, and am doing the initial baseline maintenance. Didn't see a 4th gen specific DIY guide to flushing power steering. Anyways, I recommend doing this every 80k miles, as it makes a big difference immediately, especially if the PO filled your reservoir with power steering fluid instead of the specified ATF.


**Before starting, safely jack front wheels off the ground, and support with jack stands.

1) -
Locate the power steering reservoir underneath your hood​


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2) -
Inspect your level and condition of fluid​

Notice, mine is disgusting, and way overdue for a change. Steering effort is very high, and I suspect this flush will make a big difference.



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3) -
Remove return line, and cap off the nub with Ziploc bag and zip tie. Insert 7/32" hose into your return line and secure with zip tie.​

It'll still leak, but it'll be much slower and easier to soak up with a towel. 7/32" hose available from any auto parts store.



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4) -
Route 7/32" vacuum line through the core support and down to a milk jug on the ground​


You'll want a 6' hose, long enough to reach from the reservoir to the jug on the ground.



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5) - Now, top up your reservoir all the way to the brim with fresh ATF (DEX 2 or 3). Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not start the truck.

6) - Slowly turn the wheel from NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock once. Do not hit the full locks, as you want the flow of fluid to be continuous.

7) - Top off the reservoir, and do another Near-lock to Near-lock.

8) - Repeat this process until you have pink fluid coming out of the hose, into the milk jug. Once the exiting fluid is clean, continue until your fluid is at the proper level within the reservoir.

9) - With clean fluid in the system, and the reservoir at the proper level, hook your return line back up to the reservoir and replace the cap on the reservoir. With your truck still on the jack stands, start the truck and repeat the bleeding process of turning NEAR-lock to NEAR-lock until you have no more frothing in the reservoir. If you hear a groaning noise, just keep bleeding.




TADA! You're done! Enjoy your proper steering feel, and a vastly more healthy power steering system! Total cost = ~$20 for a gallon of ATF.
 
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Nice...

I have been "dumping" power steering fluid and refill every year as it turned black only two years after I got the truck new (2005), I also "lube" the U joint on the steering linkage by spraying it with 3-36 lube and anti corrosive, as a mechanic in the past, I have seen lots 4runner with the binding steering and all turns out to be steering shaft u-joint, so, it doesn't hurt to lube it-cheaper to lube then to replace the joint....:love:
 
Great write-up! I am probably asking this in the wrong area, but need to start somewhere. I noticed this sound after I changed my driver side front hub out with a new a. But this could be from steering/axle/hub/I don't know! I may try this first since my oil is probably factory stuff. I hope a flush fixes, but really not sure if its from this or not.

When I turn completely left (lock) and sometimes almost lock, I hear a whining noise. Sounds like the inner brake dust cover, but I haven't noticed it bent etc. When having someone else make the noise for me, its like a warped rotor pattern, has a break in between the sound. Does that make sense?

Anyone with ideas to check? Possibly the axle seal cover rubbing or maybe the brake dust cover and I can't see it. I don't know!
 
I do this every time I change the serpentine belt. When the belt is off, turn the pump by hand. Doing it this way it is less likely to get air in the system.
 
You use power steering fluid instead of the recommended ATF fluid? Wouldn't that be harmful?

Thanks for the DIY, it's awesome. I may just use a turkey baster.

EDIT: Nevermind, I didn't properly read your thread. (you never said you did, you infer that maybe the last owner use PSF, good point)
 
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Another thing to add to this method. When drained, pull off your reservoir and clean it out. The film and caked up residue in there needs to be removed also.
 
I do this every time I change the serpentine belt. When the belt is off, turn the pump by hand. Doing it this way it is less likely to get air in the system.

[MENTION=91185]V8Man[/MENTION], I'm looking into changing my serpentine belt soon and I was thinking about doing it your way. How long did it take you to complete?
 
Not long at all. Five minutes. It depends how fast you turn it. But I really never timed it. With #4 the radiator was out so I used a battery powered impact to slowly turn the pump.
 
[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] ericthecarguy did a flush with engine on and turning the wheel lock to lock. He has it on youtube and he did not have to lift vehicle. Any reason you went with a method that requires lifting the car and not turning it on? I am looking to do it and trying to figure out the easiest best way to do it. Also how many quarts did it require? I purchased 2 quarts of Toyota transmission fluid hoping it will be enough.
 
[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] ericthecarguy did a flush with engine on and turning the wheel lock to lock. He has it on youtube and he did not have to lift vehicle. Any reason you went with a method that requires lifting the car and not turning it on? I am looking to do it and trying to figure out the easiest best way to do it. Also how many quarts did it require? I purchased 2 quarts of Toyota transmission fluid hoping it will be enough.
Turning the wheels with the car stationary puts a large strain on the power steering components, and dulls the feedback during the procedure. With no weight over the front wheels, I can feel exactly how much resistance is encountered during the bleeding.

You can do it with the truck on, on the ground. You could do truck in the air, engine off. You can mix and match however you like. I just find this way to be gentlest on the PS components, while providing valuable feedback as to my progress.

If you don't have a floor jack yet, you could do it his way. But then I'd ask, why don't you have a floor jack yet, that's of greater concern to me.
 
Turning the wheels with the car stationary puts a large strain on the power steering components, and dulls the feedback during the procedure. With no weight over the front wheels, I can feel exactly how much resistance is encountered during the bleeding.



You can do it with the truck on, on the ground. You could do truck in the air, engine off. You can mix and match however you like. I just find this way to be gentlest on the PS components, while providing valuable feedback as to my progress.



If you don't have a floor jack yet, you could do it his way. But then I'd ask, why don't you have a floor jack yet, that's of greater concern to me.



Thanks, how many quarts did you use?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did the power steering flush today, I have to say every one should go do it right now!!!!! What a difference in the steering wheel feel, it has lighten up a lot. I was wondering why it was so stiff :reddance:

2 quarts of oil was more then enough, after about 3/4 quarts I noticed pink started to come out.
 

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