Only maintenance I've done personally on my 2016 5th gen (70k miles) was a drive belt replacement yesterday. I want to try other things rather than paying the dealer, so next figured I would try to do a PS flush rather than pay the dealer $300. I've watched some YouTube videos and read some threads here. Is this something pretty basic I could learn myself? If so, is this 200cc fluid extractor enough to handle it? Or do I need to get something with a longer hose so I can have my milk jug on the ground? Do I also need to get a couple ramps so I can lift my front tires off the ground? I didn't see that in most videos but did see people recommend it here. Flushing PS fluid looks pretty basic but then I've seen some mentions of getting air into the reservoir or something, which concerned me.
How difficult is a power steering flush for a beginner?
- Thread starter lawless97
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
kevwolford
New member
There are many ways to do the flush. Although not the most environmentally friendly I prefer to disconnect the return line with the engine running and while someone is turning the wheel left/right pour power steering fluid in.
I once paid a stupid amount to have a dealer do it, they just recycle the fluid and it’s not really clean.
You will need at least a gallon of fluid and having the front wheels off the ground makes it easier.
Don’t really worry about a little air. A lot will damage the pump.
I once paid a stupid amount to have a dealer do it, they just recycle the fluid and it’s not really clean.
You will need at least a gallon of fluid and having the front wheels off the ground makes it easier.
Don’t really worry about a little air. A lot will damage the pump.
1000MPH
Senior Member
Turkey baster method is the easiest, I do this every oil change, but if you are expecting to change a significant amount of fluid this will take a long time. It would be more efficient to pull the return line, plug the res, and dump the used fluid into a jug. I would not do it with the engine running, no need. Use a floor Jack to take the load off front tires so you can turn the steering wheel easily with the engine off. You will need to refill the res a lot, so a helper would be nice.
08TxRunner
Member
Hungryhawk
Member
Have you thought about the " turkey baster" method. You suck PS fluid out on reservoir, then refill. Go for a drive and repeat. As long as your fluid is improved you have helped the system without introducing air.
I use a big plastic syring as it leaks less when pulled out to squirt into waste bottle.
I use a big plastic syring as it leaks less when pulled out to squirt into waste bottle.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Everyone is a beginner at some point. Just read/watch and go in fearless. It is hard to screw these things up.
T4R_Canuck
Member
Personally I just pulled the return line off, put a little plug on the outlet of the reservoir to keep the fluid from draining out, then shoved the return line into the hose of a manual suction canister i bought at the local parts store and kept sucking fluid out the return line and refilling the reservoir until the fluid coming out was super clean. Took just a touch more than 1 Litre (quart) of fluid to flush the entire system. Once the fluid came out nice and clean, i replaced the return line, topped up the reservoir to the fill line, started the engine and cycled the steering wheel lock to lock 4 or 5 times to push any air out. Double checked and topped up fluid and replaced the cap. Super easy, took less than 15 minutes start to finish.
There's a step by step of this process on a YouTube channel called Vikings Garage. He does 5th Gen specific maintenance videos and tips/tricks and he's quite helpful.
There's a step by step of this process on a YouTube channel called Vikings Garage. He does 5th Gen specific maintenance videos and tips/tricks and he's quite helpful.
Last edited:
BuffaloBass
Member
i use a vacuum evacuator i bought to do oil changes. It can be a turkey baster, or you can use it to suck dry through lines. I have often filled new and sucked old out simultaneously with the little rig. Brake bleeds too since my Might Vac failed.
Harbor Freight HOLT 2.3 gallon manual extractor $85. Nice garage tool .
Harbor Freight HOLT 2.3 gallon manual extractor $85. Nice garage tool .
progress4m
Member
To OP, I am not really a beginner when it comes working on cars (have done Head Gaskets, timing cover gaskets replacements, timing belts, alternators, water pumps, brakes, suspension work on my and my family vehicles in the past… LOL), however, I actually just did my first ever power string fluid change on my 4Runner, so from that stand point I am a beginner just like you.
No special tools at all, lifted the front enough to remove weight from the front wheels. Removed the return line from the power steering reservoir, plugged the reservoir with a rubber plug I had laying in garage (I have heard people are using ear plug to do the same). Used a small size (8 or 12 oz. I think) water bottle, squeezed it in the engine compartment just to the right and below the power steering reservoir and inserted the return line into that bottle.
With engine off, key in accessory position, I added power steering fluid (I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF)) into reservoir until it is full and proceeded with slowly turning steering wheel (left -right \ lock to lock) until reservoir is close to the low level (Important: do not let it go to empty, or you will suck air into the system).
Repeated that process: slowly turning steering wheel from side to side, adding power steering into reservoir, and emptying old fluid from the water bottle as needed.
In my case it took just under 2 quarts of fluid to see new\clean ATF coming from return line into water bottle.
Connected the return line back, topped off the reservoir, lowered the 4Runner, started the engine, and checked for leaks.
Hope that helps!
No special tools at all, lifted the front enough to remove weight from the front wheels. Removed the return line from the power steering reservoir, plugged the reservoir with a rubber plug I had laying in garage (I have heard people are using ear plug to do the same). Used a small size (8 or 12 oz. I think) water bottle, squeezed it in the engine compartment just to the right and below the power steering reservoir and inserted the return line into that bottle.
With engine off, key in accessory position, I added power steering fluid (I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF)) into reservoir until it is full and proceeded with slowly turning steering wheel (left -right \ lock to lock) until reservoir is close to the low level (Important: do not let it go to empty, or you will suck air into the system).
Repeated that process: slowly turning steering wheel from side to side, adding power steering into reservoir, and emptying old fluid from the water bottle as needed.
In my case it took just under 2 quarts of fluid to see new\clean ATF coming from return line into water bottle.
Connected the return line back, topped off the reservoir, lowered the 4Runner, started the engine, and checked for leaks.
Hope that helps!
Last edited:
BuffaloBass
Member
The FSM does tell you to raise the front end up to help get the air out of the PS system.
I use the Harbor Freight Holt pneumatic brake bleeder that I got for $99. It doubles as a fluid extractor and it works like a charm. I just suck through the return line after plugging the reservoir and while keeping the reservoir full. Makes it 10x's easier. Best money I've spent in a while on that thing. I suck old gas and oil out of the lawn mower, snow blower, wood chipper with it and all kinds of things I never knew I needed it for; not to mention bleeding brakes. Such a time saver and wish I had gotten one years ago.
Thanks so much for all the great tips. Planning on trying this in a few days using this fluid extractor I got from Amazon. Just one last question. Can I use the jack that came with my 4runner to lift it a couple inches (I will turn the steering wheel from outside the car and won't sit in it) or do I need an actual floor jack? Would prefer not to spend an additional $75 on one if I don't need to.
I've got my 1 gallon of Valvoline ATF and have watched about ten Youtube videos and am ready to start this project finally, but I don't have floor jacks to lift the car so I can turn the steering wheel to pump out the fluid. Was going to order a 3/8 double barb and some jack stands from Amazon so I could do it when they get here, but I watched the video you told me about. I do have this manual fluid extractor and some 3/8" hose. Can I use that and do what he does here and insert my manual suction into that return line to pull out the old fluid so I don't have to lift my car to get the fluid out of the return line? Would be great if I can save $50.
T4R_Canuck
Member
My car was off, i connected my hoses and used my manual suction to pull fluid from the return line as i topped up the reservoir with new fluid. I shoved the hoses into one another and put a rag around the connection to catch any drips.
Once the fluid coming out the return line was nice and bright red, i reconnected the lines to the reservoir, started the car and turned the wheels lock to lock 3 or 4 times, topped up the level and called it done.
Never in my life have I experienced anything as miserable or difficult as trying to remove my power steering return line. I can move it around the nozzle pretty easily but for the life of me, cannot make any progression on moving it down the nipple, despite using WD40, sticking screwdrivers and small tools down the line and then spraying, using a wrench to twist it, etc. There is no way it is coming off. I spent probably $100 buying the tools for a PS flush to do this on my own but I am pretty sure I'm going to need to take it to a mechanic and pay $180 for a flush.
As a last ditch effort, how difficult is it to remove the return line from whatever it connects to at the bottom, so I can just cut it at the top and replace the entire line? Or, will the flush be just as efficient as continually topping it off with new ATF, driving it a bit, and then extracting all the fluid from the reservoir and refilling a few times to cycle all the old fluid out? I have a gallon of ATF so I can fill it up multiple times. Really bummed I couldn't finish this job the correct way.
As a last ditch effort, how difficult is it to remove the return line from whatever it connects to at the bottom, so I can just cut it at the top and replace the entire line? Or, will the flush be just as efficient as continually topping it off with new ATF, driving it a bit, and then extracting all the fluid from the reservoir and refilling a few times to cycle all the old fluid out? I have a gallon of ATF so I can fill it up multiple times. Really bummed I couldn't finish this job the correct way.
Last edited:
Chris__Colorado
Junior Member
Easy Brake Fluid and Power Steering Fluid Maintenance
My dad taught me this trick:
Every summer, use a turkey baster (never to return to the kitchen) and remove the fluid from the brake reservoir and the power steering reservoir. If they use different fluids, have a turkey baster for each.
Add proper new fluid up to the appropriate fill line.
Do this three times each summer, in June, in July, and in August.
You'll be amazed how quickly this can be done--just a few minutes.
I've owned multiple vehicles (over 30), and never had an issue. At least a dozen of the vehicles have gone beyond 150K and many beyond 200K.
Why does this work? Probably because it's done yearly (vice much less often by most people) and gets most of the fluid with the three iterations each summer. Preventive maintenance works.
Have I ever done a drain and flush on any vehicle in over 40 years of driving? No.
Have I ever had problems? No.
Does it save money? Probably not. I buy fresh fluids every summer.
Does it save time? Probably yes as during a full purge takes more time and equiment.
Is it as good as a full drain and flush. Probably not. But given most people don't do any preventive maintenance, these few minutes three times on an early summer morning make a huge difference.
Your mileage may vary, but I like easy maintenance that has proven to work.
Chris__Colorado
Current Fleet
2022 4Runner Limited (white)
2022 4Runner Limited (red)
2011 Highlander Hybrid
2000 Chevy Blazer
1986 Intruder
Some other preventive and recurring maintenance:
I also change my oil every 5000 miles and oil filter every other oil change. I only use 100% synthetic oil (brand immaterial, whatever is cheapest).
On the oil pan, I use a Fumoto valve with a section of permanently attached fuel line hose which makes draining the oil a breeze, and not messy.
Each Month:
Before sunrise, the tire pressure is checked and adjusted to read 3 psi over the recommended pressure. This pressure works for me.
Oil level checked.
Windshield fluid topped off.
Vacuum and wash floormats as appropriate.
Check all lights
Lighly clean car inside s needed
Lightly clean outside of car (usually just foam and rinse once or twice).
Wipe down inside with 303 Protectant (window seals too)
Every April and September
Grease all zerk fittings.
RainX or Aquapel all windows
Use some bicyle spray chain wax on hinges and any moving parts (Hood hinges, door hinges, lock latches, etc.)
Every September,
Hose off (cold) engine and compartment.
Run through a car wash twice using the undercarraige cleaning option (never use it otherwise)
Detail, clay and wax car.
Spray underside with woolwax or fluid film (whichever I can find--just a few cans to touch up stuff).
My dad taught me this trick:
Every summer, use a turkey baster (never to return to the kitchen) and remove the fluid from the brake reservoir and the power steering reservoir. If they use different fluids, have a turkey baster for each.
Add proper new fluid up to the appropriate fill line.
Do this three times each summer, in June, in July, and in August.
You'll be amazed how quickly this can be done--just a few minutes.
I've owned multiple vehicles (over 30), and never had an issue. At least a dozen of the vehicles have gone beyond 150K and many beyond 200K.
Why does this work? Probably because it's done yearly (vice much less often by most people) and gets most of the fluid with the three iterations each summer. Preventive maintenance works.
Have I ever done a drain and flush on any vehicle in over 40 years of driving? No.
Have I ever had problems? No.
Does it save money? Probably not. I buy fresh fluids every summer.
Does it save time? Probably yes as during a full purge takes more time and equiment.
Is it as good as a full drain and flush. Probably not. But given most people don't do any preventive maintenance, these few minutes three times on an early summer morning make a huge difference.
Your mileage may vary, but I like easy maintenance that has proven to work.
Chris__Colorado
Current Fleet
2022 4Runner Limited (white)
2022 4Runner Limited (red)
2011 Highlander Hybrid
2000 Chevy Blazer
1986 Intruder
Some other preventive and recurring maintenance:
I also change my oil every 5000 miles and oil filter every other oil change. I only use 100% synthetic oil (brand immaterial, whatever is cheapest).
On the oil pan, I use a Fumoto valve with a section of permanently attached fuel line hose which makes draining the oil a breeze, and not messy.
Each Month:
Before sunrise, the tire pressure is checked and adjusted to read 3 psi over the recommended pressure. This pressure works for me.
Oil level checked.
Windshield fluid topped off.
Vacuum and wash floormats as appropriate.
Check all lights
Lighly clean car inside s needed
Lightly clean outside of car (usually just foam and rinse once or twice).
Wipe down inside with 303 Protectant (window seals too)
Every April and September
Grease all zerk fittings.
RainX or Aquapel all windows
Use some bicyle spray chain wax on hinges and any moving parts (Hood hinges, door hinges, lock latches, etc.)
Every September,
Hose off (cold) engine and compartment.
Run through a car wash twice using the undercarraige cleaning option (never use it otherwise)
Detail, clay and wax car.
Spray underside with woolwax or fluid film (whichever I can find--just a few cans to touch up stuff).
