Do I have a Transmission Issue?

masphx

masphx

New member
Hi,

So last Nov I bought a 4th gen with 155K on it. 2003 V8 4x4 Limited. Anyway, it shifts fine under normal engine power but at lower speeds it acts up. Hard to describe and these issues only happen about every other time but if I'm at a stop and take my foot off the pedal and either let the rig idle crawl or lightly touch the gas I get a 'thump' sound. There is somewhat of a feel to it also. Also if the rig is going say 5-10 mph coasting and I hit the gas petal lightly I will also get the 'thump'. I have check the fluid (has the dip stick) and fluid looks nice and red. No history to if it has ever then changed/ exchanged.

Thanks,

Mason
 
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masphx said:
Hi,



So last Nov I bought a 4th gen with 155K on it. 2003 V8 4x4 Limited. Anyway, it shifts fine under normal engine power but at lower speeds it acts up. Hard to describe and these issues only happen about every other time but if I'm at a stop and take my foot off the pedal and either let the rig idle crawl or lightly touch the gas I get a 'thump' sound. There is somewhat of a feel to it also. Also if the rig is going say 5-10 mph coasting and I hit the gas petal lightly I will also get the 'thump'. I have check the fluid (has the dip stick) and fluid looks nice and red. No history to if it has ever then changed/ exchanged.



Thanks,



Mason
Click to expand...


Have you greased your zerks fittings on your driveline?


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Grease the drive shaft slip yokes and search clunk. Your transmission is fine. Your driveline needs grease.
 
Yes, I have greased them but I did only 3-5 pumps into each zerk. Should I just pump them until my arm can't pump anymore? lol.
 
masphx said:
Yes, I have greased them but I did only 3-5 pumps into each zerk. Should I just pump them until my arm can't pump anymore? lol.
Click to expand...



Yeah, you might not want to do that.

Spider joints till you can see or hear the old grease getting pushed out.

Not as much consensus on slip yolks, but these can take substantially more. I put in enough grease until I see the drive shaft shift from the grease.

Moly vs non-moly. You're eyes will fall out if you try searching/reading about it on the inter-webs. I did the whole moly vs non for a while until the last time. I just said f**k it and threw moly into all the zerks. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html

But moral of the story here-- try searching before you post. There's a wealth of information on this issue already.


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My 05 V8 4x does the same thing. I just figured it was the "slack" so to speak from the drivetrain when I accelerate. I am at 142K. Really hadn't thought too much about it since my dodge diesel does the same thing. I'll have to check the u joints on both.
 
While we are on this topic maybe someone can answer a question I've been wondering. Welcome to another round of "is this normal?"!

When I am accelerating from a stop in a normal matter, or accelerating fast, it shifts nice and smooth. But when I am accelerating very SLOWLY, such as just meandering through stop and go highway traffic, the shifts are fairly harsh and noticeable. Such as, when it shifts from first to second at around 5mph while just cruising and NOT really getting any faster, like when just barely touching the pedal in traffic, it jumps into second in a pretty pronounced manner. I should note that I have loudish exhaust so I can notice the sound of the shift a lot too. It's not 'bad', just strange. Is this normal?
 
Everybody already got it but specifically the zero on the rear drive shaft, pump at least until the shaft moves. After that, be careful I guess, I've heard horror stories but I kept going trying to get the old black grease to come out of the drive line slip but it came out of the seal at the u-joint first. No problems yet...

I just did mine with M1 pink grease and got rid of those stop sign clunks.
 
catfishbirddog said:
Everybody already got it but specifically the zero on the rear drive shaft, pump at least until the shaft moves. After that, be careful I guess, I've heard horror stories but I kept going trying to get the old black grease to come out of the drive line slip but it came out of the seal at the u-joint first. No problems yet...

I just did mine with M1 pink grease and got rid of those stop sign clunks.
Click to expand...

I have read that the best way to do it is to pump grease into the slip yolk until you see the joint move (this takes a lot of grease since it has to fill a large chamber) and then remove the zerk fitting by unscrewing it, and allow some of the excess grease to escape from the valve while compressing the suspension by pressing on the bumper. Then reinstall zerk. This way, you know there is a proper amount of grease in the shaft, while not overfilling it and forcing the excess grease to escape through the sliding shaft which can theoretically cause damage to the joint. Do this on the rear and front drive shaft slip yolks (if 4wd).
 
03v8raleigh said:
I have read that the best way to do it is to pump grease into the slip yolk until you see the joint move (this takes a lot of grease since it has to fill a large chamber) and then remove the zerk fitting by unscrewing it, and allow some of the excess grease to escape from the valve while compressing the suspension by pressing on the bumper. Then reinstall zerk. This way, you know there is a proper amount of grease in the shaft, while not overfilling it and forcing the excess grease to escape through the sliding shaft which can theoretically cause damage to the joint. Do this on the rear and front drive shaft slip yolks (if 4wd).
Click to expand...

I would drive around with the zerk removed so that the excess grease is expelled naturally. Maybe hit some bumps hard in order to facilitate this process? Of course this won't do anything for the front DS as it doesn't move up/down with the suspension!
 
alia176 said:
I would drive around with the zerk removed so that the excess grease is expelled naturally. Maybe hit some bumps hard in order to facilitate this process? Of course this won't do anything for the front DS as it doesn't move up/down with the suspension!
Click to expand...

Then clean all the grease up that gets thrown around. The group thought is it's just the front of the rear shaft that bumps.
 


2005 4runner with 150,000 miles.

I went to grease the zerks, but was difficult pumping in any.

Shaft ends are solid not loose.
I suppose next time it's on a rack for something, I'll get my mechanic to grease them

Almost 15 years with no grease. No issues.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
tranny shift like new!
:gun6:

Check for "play" in the drive shaft (ujoints going?). Should be tight - no play. Mine has absolutely none.

Service the tranny at a Toyota dealer for $200 (or professional shot). Get a new filter + D/F 5 quarts Toyota brand ATM.
 
Last edited:
Have you seen the driveshaft clunk issue on here before? Doesn't quite match up with what you are experiencing, but worth greasing the driveshaft, either way, to see if it helps.
 
I recently replaced all my u-joints front and rear shafts. When I had them out, I took the zerk off each slip yoke and shot about 30psi of air into the orifice to blow all the old nasty grease out. Then I wiped down the splines and coated them with fresh grease before reassembling. Once the shafts were back on the truck, I pumped the slip yokes up until they just started to move. Then, I pulled the zerks out and bounced both bumpers one time. Wiped up the excess and installed the zerks. That was a few months ago. Everything feels great. I never realized how much torque is lost due to worn u-joints, but the whole truck feels much more lively than before when it comes to throttle input, and no clunks or bumps or weird noises, it feels solid
 
81runner said:
I recently replaced all my u-joints front and rear shafts. When I had them out, I took the zerk off each slip yoke and shot about 30psi of air into the orifice to blow all the old nasty grease out. Then I wiped down the splines and coated them with fresh grease before reassembling. Once the shafts were back on the truck, I pumped the slip yokes up until they just started to move. Then, I pulled the zerks out and bounced both bumpers one time. Wiped up the excess and installed the zerks. That was a few months ago. Everything feels great. I never realized how much torque is lost due to worn u-joints, but the whole truck feels much more lively than before when it comes to throttle input, and no clunks or bumps or weird noises, it feels solid
Click to expand...

Any chance you have a link to the u-joints you bought?
 
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