I am running the Dobinson's rear long travel 701v springs and shocks. Just ditched my sway bar and added extended brake lines.
The flex is every bit worth it. Makes a big difference. I've been able to run obstacles where I used to need a locker and the extra flex keeps the tires planted.
If you have an SR5 with no locker I would highly suggest this route.
The downside is needing to extend your rear bump stops. Even with the 701v, fully loaded for my trip out west, I would hit the bump stops offroad easily. Unloaded on a trail it's perfect! But expect to have a 3" rear lift, which I like a nice rake.
This photo still had the rear sway bar attached with the Dobinson's adjustable end links to allow for more down travel. Without the rear sway bar its even better.
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Thanks guys.
That is awesome flex!!!!
It looks like you end up with rake about the same as stock....does that sound right?
I am running the Dobinson's rear long travel 701v springs and shocks. Just ditched my sway bar and added extended brake lines.
The flex is every bit worth it. Makes a big difference. I've been able to run obstacles where I used to need a locker and the extra flex keeps the tires planted.
If you have an SR5 with no locker I would highly suggest this route.
The downside is needing to extend your rear bump stops. Even with the 701v, fully loaded for my trip out west, I would hit the bump stops offroad easily. Unloaded on a trail it's perfect! But expect to have a 3" rear lift, which I like a nice rake.
This photo still had the rear sway bar attached with the Dobinson's adjustable end links to allow for more down travel. Without the rear sway bar its even better.
![]()
Hey guys, great source of rear LT info here. I've got RCLT on order for up front and want to step up the rear a bit next. I've bookmarked the RadFlo extended rear shocks and Dobinsons LT HD springs.
My question is- Do I absolutely need adjustable trailing arms and links for this? Or can I add these a bit later?
I've already got extended rear brake lines, extended bumps, and Sonoran Steel High Articulation rear Trac bar. Once RCLT is installed I am thinking of getting rid of KDSS altogether, been only running the rear sway for a couple years now.
Thanks
nah you dont need them. Itll cycle cleaner with better bushings/joints though.
i forget who i chatted with on here about this, but you can remove the driver side upper link and see how it feels. itll flex easier without any binding.
IMO keep the rear KDSS. hit up DrKdss for any info. i dont follow his stuff anymore since i ditched IG but i know he had some trick things coming down the pipeline.
Thanks, this helps. I'll run stock trailers/links until they blow out, and maybe remove that driver side upper, it's a PITA to get to anyway, nice to have it gone. I have a few DRKDSS bits, will investigate more as needed.
DO NOT remove the driver upper if staying with OEM links. the OEM upper links are far too weak to support it on only a single side. If you look at the OEM uppers they are like thin twigs.
I have the metaltech long travel with icon 2.5 resis and it has been great. I upgraded to metaltech upper and lower links and it does cycle much better than the stock links.
who was the guy who sheared his OEM link? he ended up running with just one upper link and confirmed it was fine. But all the other info i've seen says you can run just 3 links if you upgrade to Heims