does any bodys e-brake work?

If you brakes are adjusted correctly and they still suck, like mine did. adjust it from the cab. There is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the lever that you can tighten the cable. Im almost positive my cable has stretched over the last 190k. so i tighten that and all of sudden it works again. :D
 
My e-brake works great. I use it EVERY time I park. My 4runner is a manual. Sometimes the brake works too well. When I'm wheeling, it's my third foot on inclines, rock crawling. I'll yank on it dozens of times and it will over tighten. I have it down on how to loosen it quickly/easily.
 
yay revival!

I've realized that 3rd gen rear brakes just suck altogether, not just the ebrake.

WE NEED A REAR DISK BRAKE SWAP ALREADY

They make one for the Tacoma, I don't see why it wouldn't work on the 3rd gen. I have never heard of anyone making use of it for the 4runner.
 
They make one for the Tacoma, I don't see why it wouldn't work on the 3rd gen. I have never heard of anyone making use of it for the 4runner.

I've heard that the kit was crap and lacked an e-brake option...

Too bad the Sequoia rear brakes didn't work out.
 
terrific info, thanks!!! im guessing this is whats causing my problem as well.

if i park on an incline and use the ebrake, it shudders and rolls back a little bit before it catches. or maybe its the tranny holding it, not sure. :shrug:
 
Mine works great as well! I adjusted the bolt inside the console this week to tighten it up a little and it very good now. Used to pull straight to the top with very little effort now it barely goes halfway and the brake is nice and tight.
 
This whole thread needs to be deleted

Not one person so far has any clue how to adjust the rear drum brakes or parking brake. All you are doing is giving some new smuck bad advice. Advice that could be dangerous. You don't just spin the the star wheel or crank down the Ebrake adjusting nut until something happens. Good grief Charlie Brown!

Here's the link to the FSM. Please read it.

Parking brake adjustment procedure

Parking brake lever adjustment

Drum Brakes

FSM complete

And when you have drum brakes, the parking brake should be used frequently because it adjusts the shoes so that you always have functioning rear brakes.
 
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If you brakes are adjusted correctly and they still suck, like mine did. adjust it from the cab. There is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the lever that you can tighten the cable. Im almost positive my cable has stretched over the last 190k. so i tighten that and all of sudden it works again. :D

Wrong! The cable doesn't stretch. Its not resetting properly back at the wheels.
 
my buddy has one on his 1st gen and loves it, doesnt budge w minimal force: https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489brakeupgrades/33

i know it steers away from the "protecting your drivetrain", but the way i think of it is that as long as you arent putting the actual strain on your gears in your t-case and trans youre good. the u joints shouldnt have play if they are taken care of properly. i use my parking brake every time i park as well due to the 5speed, i just use elbow grease. ive had some people not be able to disengage the p brake before. hahahaa
 
my buddy has one on his 1st gen and loves it, doesnt budge w minimal force: https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489brakeupgrades/33

i know it steers away from the "protecting your drivetrain", but the way i think of it is that as long as you arent putting the actual strain on your gears in your t-case and trans youre good. the u joints shouldnt have play if they are taken care of properly. i use my parking brake every time i park as well due to the 5speed, i just use elbow grease. ive had some people not be able to disengage the p brake before. hahahaa

The downside is if the rear driveshaft breaks, you are going to roll away.
Some medium-duty trucks have the parking brake on the driveshaft. I know someone that dropped the driveshaft going up a hill. He couldn't set the parking brake so he had to coast down backward, while dragging the driveshaft.
 
I wanted one of those until I read it would only really work if both wheels have traction.

I had a hilux I never tried that hard but brake never worked well. Now I have two and p-brake works well on both. I haven't done it yet but I plan to get in there and grease up the adjusters and the bell cranks in the near future. I was just reading yesterday that someone had like 200k on his original rear brakes. That might contribute to the p-brake not working all that well.

The one I never got to work well, I think maybe the cables were part of the problem.

p.s. I put a new cable on my truck and it totally stretched. :reddance:
 
I wanted one of those until I read it would only really work if both wheels have traction.

Another great point. If one wheel is on ice, the rig will roll away like it's in neutral.

Same thing can happen with an automatic if you don't use the parking brake.
 
It's a common thing on these trucks, especially if you live in an area that uses salt in the winter.

If you look at your axle from the rear looking towards the front. You see the park brake cable, that park brake cable is connected to the park brake lever which actuates the shoes on the drums. That lever sits on a pivot, that pivot likes to sieze up when it's not being used especially on automatic 4Runners. You can take it apart, clean it up and put an anti siezing compound on it. Then, use your park brake every now and then to make sure it doesn't sieze.

Oh, and my E-Brake works great by the way it was siezed up when I bought it. Cleaned it up, serviced it now it works great!

Got a pic?
 
I looked at AllPRO, Sky Manf, etc but no one makes one that will work with the TC in the 3.4 motors.

my buddy has one on his 1st gen and loves it, doesnt budge w minimal force: https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489brakeupgrades/33

i know it steers away from the "protecting your drivetrain", but the way i think of it is that as long as you arent putting the actual strain on your gears in your t-case and trans youre good. the u joints shouldnt have play if they are taken care of properly. i use my parking brake every time i park as well due to the 5speed, i just use elbow grease. ive had some people not be able to disengage the p brake before. hahahaa
 
Mine works fine.
I try to use the parking brake everyday, I think that helps it stay in shape plus its better on your transmission.

If you don't use it everyday and also if your rear drums are worn then it isn't going to work very well.
 
Just throwing out another option for all those reading this-

My ebrake was not working- it would stick and not move when I released the lever. The linkage at the drums was fine, though I lubed it anyway. I wasn't sure if I wanted to replace the cable, simply because I don't use the brake much anyway, and I can think of other things to spend $50 on.

So I figured- if I'm not using it, I might as well pull it and see what the heck is going on. I already had the console out from another project, but it probably took me about 20 min to pull the whole works.

1- Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the lever to the floor.
2- Remove the two 10mm nuts from the end of the cable, pop cable loose from lever.
3- Use a 13mm box end wrench to release all the tabs on the cable housing, then slide housing below floor.
4- Disconnect cable at each drum. Remove spring pin thingy (looks like a paperclip) then pop out pin. Reassemble without cable so you don't loose parts.
5- Remove 12mm mounting bolts along axle housing.
6- Remove the one 12mm bolt holding cable housing above gas tank. This one was a PITA, no doubt. If I owned a gearwrench, this would be the place to use it.
7- Slide the whole works out over the rear axle.


-So here’s what I did- I hung my cable from over my workbench and slowly dripped/sprayed Liquid Wrench into the cable housing.
-I did that for about 10 minutes, until I felt like there was sufficient lube inside the housing.
-Then I went inside the house and ate some chocolate chip oatmeal cookies my wife made, along with a glass of milk (yummy)
-By the time I made it back out to the garage, the lube had worked it’s way through the entire length of the housing and was dripping out the bottom end.
-I then worked the cable back and forth with a couple pairs of pliers and loosened the whole works up
-I noticed in the process, that the mount above the gas tank had worn through the rubber coating on the housing, which probably allowed enough moisture through to rust part of the housing and cause the whole works to become sticky
-I worked it back and forth enough that I could move the cable with my hands, though still not easily.
-Then I re-installed the cable on the truck, adjusted the pull, and Shazam! It works just fine!

I don’t think it will work forever this way, obviously, but I think I got another year or two for sure. I’ll just stay on top of using it, making sure the linkage is lubed, and periodically dripping more lube into the front end of the housing.

This is just to let you all know it can be repaired, and even replacing it isn’t a super tough job. I’d rate it a 2.5 out of 10 on difficulty, mostly because of the hard to reach bolt above the gas tank.
 
Mine is not working properly, so I have some parts on order for both sides. The salty road conditions have been eating away at things. Here is what I should have this week:

Bell Crank Bracket (47628-35020)
Bell Crank Boot (47633-35020)
Bell Crank Pin (90249-08068)
Bell Crank Washer (90213-06013)

Hopefully, these will give me back a fully functional e-brake.
 
Not one person so far has any clue how to adjust the rear drum brakes or parking brake. All you are doing is giving some new smuck bad advice. Advice that could be dangerous. You don't just spin the the star wheel or crank down the Ebrake adjusting nut until something happens. Good grief Charlie Brown!

Here's the link to the FSM. Please read it.

Parking brake adjustment procedure

Parking brake lever adjustment

Drum Brakes

FSM complete

And when you have drum brakes, the parking brake should be used frequently because it adjusts the shoes so that you always have functioning rear brakes.

Those links are gone, any chance of updating them? This is the most relevant thread I've found so far, I apologize for the necromancy.
 

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