Does having the right size wheel w/ backspacing allow you to forego spacers & UCAs?

Road Bull

Senior Member
Does having the right size wheel w/ backspacing allow you to forego spacers & UCAs?

So, even after reading and doing a fair amount of searching, I am trying to come to a better understanding of reading posts like, http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html .

Would it be correct to say that getting the correct size wheels would make your lifted life easier?

And what I mean by easier is having to modify less to achieve the desired results. So lets say you planned on doing a 3" lift, and wanted to go the somewhat standard 285x75x16 configuration. If I started by going with a wheel that was 16x8 with 4.5" Backspacing, would that mean that I would not need to either modify my UCAs and or needing wheel spacers in order to have the wheels tuck in the wheel wells without the tires rubbing?

I have the stock 16x7 5-spoke rims now, but I am carefully thinking out where I want to take my build so that I am not creating more work and expense for myself down the road.

If you had to start again, would you change your approach or take an easier path than you went with the first time?
 
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Less backspacing = Pushing the inside edge of the tire and rim further out, away from the UCA.

You have to find the right middle ground to make sure you aren't going to crush your fenders if the tires fully compress though.
 
The five star wheels (mine) should not rub much with factory UCAs, no spacers, and 285x75x16 tires. At least not around town and not much on the trail. It will rub slightly at full droop with the front wheel off the ground though. But that is minor and not the end of the world for the average easy going off-roader.

Unless - you remove the front sway bar. If you remove the front sway then they will rub at every corner you take because the front moves around so much more.

The question I have is do you want to get aftermarket wheels or keep your Toyota wheels?

There are a lot of considerations here. If you move the wheel out further towards the street via back spacing guess what? Now you will rub even more in your wheel well pinch welds. A 1.25" spacer will create a strong amount of rubbing on the pinch welds when used with the factor wheel, and 285s.

If it was me I would just keep the 5 stars for awhile, no spacer and when you are ready to change wheels pick something that has no more than 1" extra backspacing. 1/2" would be Even better.
 
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Thanks for the replies guys.
[MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION]: I suppose that middle ground is what I am looking for. I am trying to avoid making decisions that necessitate me having to find fixes for those decisions if I could avoid it by getting the best possible results with the least amount of changes up front. At least for now. : )
[MENTION=10950]Brian[/MENTION]: I like my factory 5 stars. I think they are my favorite of the bunch, so I am not really in a rush to ditch them. I just didn't want to get the lift and tires, and then have to get UCAs and or spacers, and or have to do a lit if trimming, if buying a better fitting wheel would be more cist effective and straightforward.
 
Would it be correct to say that getting the correct size wheels would make your lifted life easier?

...somewhat standard 285x75x16 configuration. If I started by going with a wheel that was 16x8 with 4.5" Backspacing, would that mean that I would not need to either modify my UCAs and or needing wheel spacers in order to have the wheels tuck in the wheel wells without the tires rubbing?

The short answer is Yes, the proper wheel offset/backspacing will help. No matter if you achieve it with different wheels or spacers. You really should go outside and stare at your truck for 5-10 minutes. Turn the wheels and look again. Look under. Really visualize how each change would affect your truck. Spacers do not help tuck your tires into the wheel well. You will clear the UCA. But they push the tire outwards and its pretty easy to start rubbing on the fender at flex now.

Your absolute best bet if you're not worried about aesthetics is a 255/85/16 on the stock wheels. It fits right between the control arm and fender.
 
just didn't want to get the lift and tires, and then have to get UCAs and or spacers

I wouldn't get spacers then. And as for the UCAs they aren't a hard requirement in my opinion because you will only rub at full droop amd it is minor and if you are just doing moderate offroading then it will likely be fine.

those 285s are already wide and moving them out with spacers or diff wheels will cause other problems and risks.

Just remember to keep your front sway bar on when driving on pavement.

Your proposed setup is very similar to mine. I just went through all of this.

One thing to consider though is the Tundra brake upgrade. Do you plan to do that? You will end to make sure your wheels can clear the calipers. I didn't do that upgrade. I went with Brebo slotted and drilled rotors plus performance pads instead.
 
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[MENTION=118164]Do-boy[/MENTION]: Thanks for the simple yet effective way to visualize the forces at play here. I mean, it really sounds obvious, but you need to be able to make, whatever, new geometry you introduce, work. The boundaries, besides the wheel going up and down, seem to be UCAs and the fender flares/ and or fenders. The wider the tire gets, the less tolerance you have to work with. Right now, I have those skinny, what I would call,fender accents. Off all the optional flares, those should interfere the least. But still, they have to be able to tuck into the wheel wells.
[MENTION=10950]Brian[/MENTION]: Yeah, I like you rig, and we have the same wheel so I am always curious to see what other people have done. I see a lot of people use stock wheels, but it seems like many of those are also using spacers and have to deal with the issues that they present. so at the end of the day I don't really want to use spacers.
 

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