Does my dashboard temp guage have a case of ED?

Endlessblockades

Senior Member
We're having a heat wave here in Norcal and I was planning to help my daughter move some stuff into her first rented (she's in college) house. My fam likes to run the AC and I thought I'd see what the temp was reading with a borrowed OBDII gauge. The dash gauge NEVER gets the needle up above the pictured level - just under horizontal. I was surprised to see the Ancel gauge reported a low of 196 WITH the heater on HOT and the windows down (fam won't tolerate that!) and a high of a frightening (?- maybe not) 212 with the AC on. That was at 65MPH and it was only about 90 degrees outside. Is it normal for the dash gauge to register NO change between 196 and 212? Is it stuck where it stops? Is the Ancel gauge out of its mind? The radiator is full and the top tank and cap wasn't unusually hot to the touch, the overflow tank was cool - the thing isn't 'overheating' so I'm confused. I should disclose that I'm almost certainly on the original radiator and some probably very old red coolant (the PO was a bit of a cheapskate). I had plans to replace the radiator and T-stat soon but I'm thinking I need to move faster. I've put 10k on the truck since I bought it about about 8 months ago - it has 235k on the clock. I googled the normal range for this engine and I can't explain 212 degrees unless the ECT data is off. Not gonna drive the rig in 106' until I know what's goin on. Thanks for any insight. I took a couple pics - one attempts to show the gauge needle in its happy place and a reading of 207.
 

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I don't think it starts moving until like 225-230F. 212 isn't normal though. I've driven in those same conditions with AC full blast and I stayed between 191-195. I'd probably replace the rad, cap, and thermostat with all OEM parts first. Make sure the jiggle valve is at 6 o'clock when you do change it. Flush the coolant. Make sure to park on a incline or jack up the front when you burp it as that helps get all the air out. I'd also pickup one of these funnels as they make the job a lot easier. Amazon.com: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive
 
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It sounds like your truck is operating normally. Typical coolant temps will run between 190F and 220F on a pressurized cooling system. The key here is pressurized, and that function is controlled by the radiator cap. It's job is to maintain pressure in the cooling system up to 15 psi. By doing that, it raises the boiling point by 45 degrees.
As far as the temp gauge reading, that is normal for 4Runners and I would not worry about unless you have some reason to believe the truck is overheating.
 
Frequent stop/go and climbing hills without using OD override will do that yet it should cool down to under 200 after just a couple three miles of level driving or using OD.

As others said, if radiator is old (has a date stamp), replace it and its friends around it.

Make sure the area Between a/c condensor and radiator is clean of debris/tall grass, gotta remove front skidpan.

And yeah don't count on the stupid oem guage, by the time it moves its nearly 285 and too late.

It is odd how running the a/c raises engine temps, mine makes Zero difference if on or off, blows ice cubes too while driving thru death valley at 116+, engine temp remains at 194.
 
Thanks all - solid advice. My friend has a new aftermarket radiator he isn't going to use. I'll probably install that, thermostat, hoses, and some kind of temperature sending unit for a dedicated gauge just for peace of mind. And burp the system. What is the preferred point/method of reading coolant temp other than a Scangauge reader (or is that too retro in today's world?). I like analog gauges i can glance at.
 
The only way to read the engine temp accurately and see what the ECU sees is to plug something into the OBD port.

I love my ScanGuages. But there are other options other than that.


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The only way to read the engine temp accurately and see what the ECU sees is to plug something into the OBD port.

I love my ScanGuages. But there are other options other than that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does the Scangauge show transmission fluid temp or engine oil pressure as well? I have tried to justify buying one in the past, but at first glance it seemed to be something more adept at telling you your MPG under a variety of conditions. I'm totally resigned to whatever MPG the thing can generate unless there is something I can do to make it more efficient. They may be much more capable than I realize because I honestly don''t know that much about them.I also live in a high break-in area and I don't leave anything in sight in the truck at night. I suppose I could get an app-driven data system but I'd rather not look at my phone.
 
Does the Scangauge show transmission fluid temp or engine oil pressure as well? I have tried to justify buying one in the past, but at first glance it seemed to be something more adept at telling you your MPG under a variety of conditions. I'm totally resigned to whatever MPG the thing can generate unless there is something I can do to make it more efficient. They may be much more capable than I realize because I honestly don''t know that much about them.I also live in a high break-in area and I don't leave anything in sight in the truck at night. I suppose I could get an app-driven data system but I'd rather not look at my phone.
Scanguage and UltraGauge show trans temp, coolant temp, and a lot of other info. I don't think either of them will show oil pressure though.
 
Scanguage and UltraGauge show trans temp, coolant temp, and a lot of other info. I don't think either of them will show oil pressure though.

Thanks - I suppose I'll need to go that way & with a Spiker mount, of course. Having become a IT tradesman years ago, I do like analog stuff away from work.....
 
212*F is not overheating, but isn't correct. The gauge will be in the 'happy' position from around 165*F to ~220*F. Almost all vehicles are that way ("modern" - like mid 80's and up).

A good running cooling system will be 190*F +/-5*F in just about every condition.

Likely you just have an upside down thermostat, but take the opportunity to get an OEM one in there with the correct Toyota Red coolant mixed at the right ratio...

If temps are still erratic, check radiator cap (new OEM only!), fan clutch (Aisin or OEM), etc.

-Charlie
 
212*F is not overheating, but isn't correct. The gauge will be in the 'happy' position from around 165*F to ~220*F. Almost all vehicles are that way ("modern" - like mid 80's and up).

A good running cooling system will be 190*F +/-5*F in just about every condition.

Likely you just have an upside down thermostat, but take the opportunity to get an OEM one in there with the correct Toyota Red coolant mixed at the right ratio...

If temps are still erratic, check radiator cap (new OEM only!), fan clutch (Aisin or OEM), etc.

-Charlie

I drove it for about 5 hours in 106 degree temps and it was between 200 and 205 with heater off. Heater on blast it was 196-198. It was a pretty miserable day because I would rather be the one running hot. I am going to go all in with a new OEM t-stat, cap, Toyota red coolant (that's was it had when I got it, and as I think I mentioned, might be original!) hoses and probably a radiator as well (my friend has an unused Champion I can get for next to nothing). It might just be old coolant, but better safe than making a milkshake. Thanks for the support, all.
 
If you have access to a new rad....replace it along with the Toyota t-stat and a new rad cap.

And for the record my 96 had the jiggle valve at 12’O the clock and it’s temps were normal at 186-192.....


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Scanguage and UltraGauge show trans temp, coolant temp, and a lot of other info. I don't think either of them will show oil pressure though.

And if you go the Ultragauge route, you can also set up audible alarms for any parameter you want. No one can keep their eye on a gauge 100% of the time, and the audible alarm can be an engine saver if your coolant hose bursts.
 
And if you go the Ultragauge route, you can also set up audible alarms for any parameter you want. No one can keep their eye on a gauge 100% of the time, and the audible alarm can be an engine saver if your coolant hose bursts.

Thanks for the head's up! Glad to see Spikerengineering makes an adapter for the Ultragauge as well. I like to support any small USA-Made manufacturer I can. Please allow me do some shameless plugging even if the MFG is too classy to do it themselves: The advice and support below is something a normal out-for-dollars company would probably not bother to provide!

Note: To install this mount, you will need to remove the a-pillar handle Phillips screw. Early Toyota trucks had loctite applied to these screws, and some are more difficult to remove than others. You may be able to remove it with regular tools, or you may need a special JIS bit and impact driver, or (in rare cases) you may need to drill out of the screw. The instructions supplied with these mounts provide some tips on tools and techniques to help remove the screw. We recommend that you try to loosen the screw BEFORE placing your order, to make sure that you can get the screw out. Please contact us for additional tips on screw removal. A replacement high strength screw is included with the mount, in case you damage the original Phillips screw.

P.S. This thread is helping me retrain my brain to spell GAUGE correctly - too bad I can't edit the title...
 
And if you go the Ultragauge route, you can also set up audible alarms for any parameter you want. No one can keep their eye on a gauge 100% of the time, and the audible alarm can be an engine saver if your coolant hose bursts.

This^

I've set alarms for various things on my truck but most importantly, is the coolant temp. It could save you big time!
 
And if you go the Ultragauge route, you can also set up audible alarms for any parameter you want. No one can keep their eye on a gauge 100% of the time, and the audible alarm can be an engine saver if your coolant hose bursts.

This^

I've set alarms for various things on my truck but most importantly, is the coolant temp. It could save you big time!

Sounds like the ticket.

I didn't do a thorough RTFM yet, but can you confirm that this model has programmable alarms?

"UltraGauge EM Plus v1.4 $81.32
Save: 17% off

When in doubt about which model to select, the EM Plus v1.4 is the recommended model.

In Addition to the features described on the UltraGauge Main Page, the UltraGauge EM Plus features the following additions:

Readiness Monitors
Performance Measurements"



Thanks!
 
Sounds like the ticket.

I didn't do a thorough RTFM yet, but can you confirm that this model has programmable alarms?

"UltraGauge EM Plus v1.4 $81.32
Save: 17% off

When in doubt about which model to select, the EM Plus v1.4 is the recommended model.

In Addition to the features described on the UltraGauge Main Page, the UltraGauge EM Plus features the following additions:

Readiness Monitors
Performance Measurements"



Thanks!

That's the model I have, and it does have alarms. For your truck though, being a 99+, I'd recommend the MX model - it's a few bucks more, but it can read trans temps on 99+ trucks. UltraGauge MX v1.4 [UltraGauge_MX_1.4] - $91.32 : UltraGauge, OBD II Scan Tool & Information Center
 
That's the model I have, and it does have alarms. For your truck though, being a 99+, I'd recommend the MX model - it's a few bucks more, but it can read trans temps on 99+ trucks.

Thanks again. At first glance I thought I read that the MX didn't support 9141, but I read up further on the UG site. Looks like it will be a pretty powerful tool whether or not I use it to its fullest capacity. :cheers:
 
Thanks again. At first glance I thought I read that the MX didn't support 9141, but I read up further on the UG site. Looks like it will be a pretty powerful tool whether or not I use it to its fullest capacity. :cheers:
I have the UltraGuage MX. You will have to setup a custom gauge on it to see the trans temp, but there is a couple threads with the correct code. PM me if you need help finding it.
 

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