Upper ball joints can be a pain to separate.
Lower balljoints are super easy. Just get a ball joint separator.
Valve cover gaskets are a bit trickier and time consuming, but nothing too bad if you take your time.
Never done the output seal.
I used a pickle fork to separate my upper ball joints. A big hammer works well. Takes a few hits, mine came undone in like 5 after 205,000 miles. UBJs are a little harder because you have to press in the ball joint. Rent a press from O'Riley/AZ/Advance.
Steps to do transfer case output shaft seal:
1) Engage 4WD
2) Engage E-brake
3) Chock the wheels
4) There are 2 output shafts, one for the front and one for the rear. Mark the position of the driveline in relationship with the transfer case output flange.
5) Undo the 4 14mm driveline bolts
6) You may need to give the driveline a whack, it should collapse at the slip yoke and off it comes.
7) Look at the inside of the flange, there is a big a$$ nut that's has one side dented in towards the outer edge (like 34 mm) Use a small screwdriver to straighten it.
8) Breaker bar / impact gun that nut off and the flange comes off
9) Pull the seal out being careful not to damage the transfer case race where the seal sits. I was able to use my finger and pull from the inside.
10) Put gear oil on the new OEM seal ($10) using a seal driver or a bigger socket the size of the seal, and slowly press in the new seal evenly so the seal is flush with the edge of the lip of the transfer case.
11) Installation is reverse of removal. Put driveline in lining up the marks you made.
12) Torque the flange nut (not sure of spec), this is why you put it into 4WD and E brake and chocked the wheels.
13) Top off txfer case, especially if it was leaking.
That's it. I did mine in 10 minutes with an air gun. Super easy. Definitely not worth $3xx to pay some guy to do it.
