Doing a "tune up" what should I include.

poser

poser

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I recently picked up a 3rd gen, and it's got a bunch of miles on it at 163k. The timing belt was done at 90k miles.

I'm thinking about doing a soft tune up for peace of mind, and it idles a little rough some times. Things like fresh oil, plugs, plug cables, fuel filter, air filter, maybe run some fuel system cleaner thru it.
What else should I do?
 
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Pcv valve and grommet.
Clean maf and throttle body.
Replace diff/transfer case oil.
Lube drive shaft.
 
poser said:
I recently picked up a 3rd gen, and it's got a bunch of miles on it at 163k. The timing belt was done at 90k miles.

I'm thinking about doing a soft tune up for peace of mind, and it idles a little rough some times. Things like fresh oil, plugs, plug cables, fuel filter, air filter, maybe run some fuel system cleaner thru it.
What else should I do?
Click to expand...

Your list looks good for a start. You obviously don't want to spend a fortune right off the bat. The only thing I'd add to your list is the differential/transfer case like the other guy suggested. You might want to at least clean out the cabin air filter too... last one i bought was full of leaves and junk and I ended up just replacing it.

Good luck.
 
ben550 said:
Your list looks good for a start. You obviously don't want to spend a fortune right off the bat. The only thing I'd add to your list is the differential/transfer case like the other guy suggested. You might want to at least clean out the cabin air filter too... last one i bought was full of leaves and junk and I ended up just replacing it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

No cabin filter on the 3rd gens. Wish there was.
 
oops my 04 was the last one i had to change the cabin air filter on. never did it on my 01...(didnt know they did not have one)

good thing you said that otherwise someone would be looking for that thing for a while!
 
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good luck with the fuel filter. Get 14mm line wrenches, you won't be able to use a open ended wrench with out damaging the hard lines. Soak threads in your favorite penetrating fluid for days and you may need to use a heat gun, no open flame.

Also, many people consider a new radiator at that mileage to prevent the strawberry milkshake. Changing the radiator is surprising easy. These trucks will go well beyond 160,000 if maintained. And they are relativity easy to work on.

Note when changing the plugs and wires; the hardest plug to access is the one right in front of the driver, close to the firewall. There is a engine hoist hook attached to manifold with a bolt in front of this plug. if you remove the bolt and push the engine hoist hook off to the side, it is much easier to access this plug location.
 
A new to you rig and you want peace of mind and NO ONE has mentioned brakes? I would:

1. Do a careful test drive, checking for shudder or pulling while braking and testing stopping power.

2. Inspect pads and shoes for thickness. Change if needed. New rotors or turn if pads changed. Check drums if shoes changed. Lubricate and adjust rear brakes.

3. Check fluid. If black, do fluid flush.

4. Test e-brake. Troubleshoot as required.

Or do the Tundra Brake Upgrade and fluid flush from the gitgo. Plus lube and adjust rears.
 
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Digging thru the recipes in the glove box.
Brakes were done last year, though they put off a LOT of dust and squeak just a little, and seem grabby at the very end.
Air filter was done this year.
U-joints have been done in the past few years.

My list so far:
spark plugs and wires
fuel filter
radiator flush
trans oil
transfer case oil
clean MAS and throttle body (do I need special cleaner or can I use brake cleaner like I do everything else?)
 
Don't use brake cleaner on the MAF sensor. Use a cleaner that's safe for cleaning these sensors. There are specific MAF cleaning fluids available.
 
poser said:
Digging thru the recipes in the glove box.
Brakes were done last year, though they put off a LOT of dust and squeak just a little, and seem grabby at the very end.
Air filter was done this year.
U-joints have been done in the past few years.

My list so far:
spark plugs and wires
fuel filter
radiator flush
trans oil
transfer case oil
clean MAS and throttle body (do I need special cleaner or can I use brake cleaner like I do everything else?)
Click to expand...

All the advice listed is great. Your list is good too. Get the MAF cleaner specifically.

Couple things I would add... Clean the IAC, especially if you experience any warm-start hesitation or idling problems/dying. If you are cleaning the TB, might as well do the IAC. Personally, I put new plugs and wires at the bottom of my list. Do everything else first and then assess. If you have no hesitation and plenty of power, leave them alone. Or, clean and gap the plugs. You have enough to spend your money on :) Check the rear axle seals. They may be fine on yours, but you'll know they need work if you can see fluid-spray on the dust shield behind the rear brakes (I think) and on the inside of the rear wheel(s).
Good luck!
 
IAC? Sorry for the dumb question.

I've also seen recommendations to change the PCV. Seafoam looks like it does a good job cleaning too.
 
In addition to what youve already stated; These, I feel, are most important

ball joints
pads/shoes
coolant flush and fill with proper Toyota red af
 
poser said:
IAC? Sorry for the dumb question.

I've also seen recommendations to change the PCV. Seafoam looks like it does a good job cleaning too.
Click to expand...

Not a dumb question at all. As csp said, it's Idle Air Control. It is under the throttle body. If you google it, you'll find some steps on cleaning it.

PCV is a good idea too. I think people recommend changing out the grommet for the PCV when they swap it, because it gets brittle and cracks from age (or it completely crumbles and falls apart).
 
Anyone know where I can get my hands on a service manual?
Also, what brands and how much do I need of:
trans fluid
front and rear diff oil
transfer case oil

EDIT: also, does the transfer case take the same oil as the front and rear diff?
 
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