Done a lot of work, rear end still clunks! GRRR

Hardway

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For the last few months my '02 4Runner SR5 2WD has developed a very annoying and irritating clunk in the rear when I go over bumps. This past weekend I replaced the following items in hopes of solving the issue. New Moog 81043 springs, sway bar bushings, end links, and a Sonaran Steel adjustable trac-bar. I drove it with the spare tire not mounted to see if that might be the problem but it still makes the noise. When I am driving over and hit a bump in the road or just go crappy streets the rear feels like it is falling out from under the vehicle. The KYB gas-a-just shocks are fairly new and still have plenty of pressure although the top shock bushings are installed with the retainers washer between the lower rubber bushing and the upper shock mount. (this still makes no sense as it creates metal on metal contact) My U-joints seem to be in good shape as well as all of the other control arms in the rear. What am I missing? Other owners with clunks and clanks coming from the rear all point to different items. Any guidance is appreciated.

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is your exhaust lose? it could be a clunk from your pipe hitting something, or your sway bar bushings, not the end link bushings, but the bushings on the sway bar itself... it could also be your control arm bushings...
 
x2 on the loose exhaust. One of the rubber hangers broke on mine, so the pipe was sitting on the frame crossmember. Every bump I hit, the pipe would clank realy lound. Just follow your exhaust from the cat back and check it out.
 
The exhaust and all of its mounts are in excellent shape. I moved it around a lot when I was under it and it never came close to coming in contact with anything. I replaced the sway bar bushings that hold the sway bar to the rear axle as well as the end links, all MOOG parts. I have seen a few threads on replacing control arm bushings, what a PITA. My 4Runner has 99K on it and I must say it is very disappointing to have so much wear out on a vehicle so quickly. My 4Runner is street driven only and is my DD.
 
In a hurry this morning, but your adjustable trac bar doesnt look centered properly.

The left side of it threaded out all of the way, the right side still has some meat left on it. I set it up to match the length of the stock unit. Should I be able to thread the left side out some more?
 
For me it's not an issue of length, but of the bushing. My bushing is practically non existent and they dont sell new ones on their own. Its ancored to the frame at a fixed length, so if the truck sways or the rear suspension depresses, the end of the bar knocks against its own mounting bolt.

I found mine by having someone put both palms against the rear side window and rock the truck back and forth as much as possible. Also have someone stand on your tow hitch or rear bumper and see if you can get the back end going up and down while you're undearneath it.

PC
 
Not to thread jack, but im having the same issue on my rig.

I removed the sway bar thinking it was the bushings however I hear the same thing.
Also replaced the springs back to stock (since I previously had the PP lift), And the stock ones seem to be making noise.
I will be removing the top rear control arms and add some Syn grease for good measure and see if that fixes it.

I'll keep you posted.
 
"The KYB gas-a-just shocks are fairly new and still have plenty of pressure although the top shock bushings are installed with the retainers washer between the lower rubber bushing and the upper shock mount. (this still makes no sense as it creates metal on metal contact)"

Did you have this issue before you replaced the shocks? You should have a rubber bushing on each side of the upper shock mount.
 
"The KYB gas-a-just shocks are fairly new and still have plenty of pressure although the top shock bushings are installed with the retainers washer between the lower rubber bushing and the upper shock mount. (this still makes no sense as it creates metal on metal contact)"

Did you have this issue before you replaced the shocks? You should have a rubber bushing on each side of the upper shock mount.

I did not replace the shocks, the KYB's were already on it when I bought it. I noticed the way they were installed and asked about it in the thread below, people said they is the way they are supposed to be installed.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/115874-end-link-shock-bushings-right.html

Seeing that the shocks are such a PITA to replace I did not want to try and remove them unless I knew for sure they were the cause of the clunking feeling and sound. Based on how severe it feels and what I have done so far I am betting one of my control arm bushings is worn out. I am going to crawl back under it after work and look closer at everything.
 
You got that adjustable trac bar all out of whack. I bet there are about 5 threads on the passenger rod end... Start there.
 
You got that adjustable trac bar all out of whack. I bet there are about 5 threads on the passenger rod end... Start there.

The noise/clunk is the same as it was with the stock trac-bar. In the picture, the driver side of the bar is threaded out as far as I could get it. I had to thread the pass. side out more to make the bar the same length as the stock one. I have left a msg. for Steve at SS so I will ask him about it. I thought it was odd as well but I know the trac-bar is not the source of the clunking sound.
 
I just don't understand why you can't un thread the drivers side about 1/2 inch and thread the passenger side in 1/2 inch. It would stay the same length. I have this feeling your trying to adjust it without undoing one of the bolts and threading the hems individually.

Even if its not the clunk you will rip that passenger heim right out of the bung with just a couple threads hanging on to. it would only take 5 minutes to fix this......

Take it or leave it
 
Update: I heard back from Steve at SS and he said the threaded sides sometimes take some real strength as the ends are tapered. I took the bar out and put it in my vise, sure enough the driver side came out but it took some real strong turns to get it out. The bar is now centered up and looks much better. I did not see any zerk grease fittings on the rear end or on any of the bushings. I took a small pry bar to see if any of the control arm bushings were in bad shape. They were all very strong and resilient. I checked the exhaust again, shaking it as hard as I could and could not create or replicate any noises. I am at a loss of what else it could be.
 
Update: I heard back from Steve at SS and he said the threaded sides sometimes take some real strength as the ends are tapered. I took the bar out and put it in my vise, sure enough the driver side came out but it took some real strong turns to get it out. The bar is now centered up and looks much better. I did not see any zerk grease fittings on the rear end or on any of the bushings. I took a small pry bar to see if any of the control arm bushings were in bad shape. They were all very strong and resilient. I checked the exhaust again, shaking it as hard as I could and could not create or replicate any noises. I am at a loss of what else it could be.

So you didn't see the zirk on the rear driveshaft or were you talking about something else?
 
I did not see a zerk fitting on the rear of the drive shaft but I can see that according to the site below there should be 5 back there.

4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft

Also, I noticed my upper shock bushings are pretty much flattened so I am sure they are not providing the isolation they are intended to. If I can get the shocks off without destroying them then I will replace the bushings this weekend. Otherwise I will install some new Sensa-Trac's and go from there.
 
I did not see a zerk fitting on the rear of the drive shaft but I can see that according to the site below there should be 5 back there.

4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft

Also, I noticed my upper shock bushings are pretty much flattened so I am sure they are not providing the isolation they are intended to. If I can get the shocks off without destroying them then I will replace the bushings this weekend. Otherwise I will install some new Sensa-Trac's and go from there.

Before you go any further with replacing more parts...
GREASE THOSE ZERKS! That is 4Runner Maintenance 101.
 
In light of learning about the zerks on the drive shaft I jacked up the 4Runner this evening and crawled under it with grease gun hand. After a thorough inspection I have concluded my driveshaft does not have zerks at either end, see pics below. Anyone know why this would be?

Rear
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Front
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While under I did notice this body mount/bushing. Its obviously shot but I am not sold this would be causing all the noise I am hearing. On the bright side it does not look like it would be too hard to replace.
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Below is the passenger side upper shock bushing. This may or may not be the cause of my issue but the bushing looks like it is compressed beyond function. Thoughts?
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