Door Lock Actuator failure

RickC

RickC

New member
I have had a RR lock actuator bad for a couple months, just been putting off fixing it due to the cost. But now, my driver door is bad too, so I had to order two of the darn things. Anyway, just in case anyone else needs this, here are the part numbers. They should be the same for 2003-2009 at least. I noticed even other models used the same part as well.


4runner door lock actuator part numbers

LF: 69040-02120
LR: 69060-60091
RF: 69030-33261
RR: 69050-60091
Liftgate: 69110-35062
 
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Thanks for the part numbers. This issue seems to be popping up more frequently lately. I have a 2004, no issues yet but at least I'll know the fix-it when it happens.
 
I hard RF fail. At least it's very simple to replace the buggers, 10mm wrench & screwdriver 20mins and you'll have them switched.
 
Yeah, I have replaced them before in my mom's Avalon and my daughters Camry. The worst part is the cost.
 
Conicelli Toyota out of Pennsylvania. Also known as partznet.com

I got lucky because they had sent me email, (I have bought from them before), and that email included a 10% discount during the month of May for any parts totaling over 150.00. The price on the RR is 173.00. They also have a 15% off for parts over 350.00. The LF price was 195.00 so the two totaled over 350.00 and I got 15% off plus free shipping. A good deal, but still expensive.
 
What are the symtoms of an actuator failure? Does it just fail all the sudden or does it slowly get weak. I'm curious because my driver door lock has been acting up but still works. For now.
 
My driver door hard failed, it simply didn't work one time I went to lock it and it never worked again. My RR though, was intermittent for about a week, then went solid. The way it started is I used the key fob to lock the door and the car didn't beep. I would unlock, and it would double beep, but lock and nothing, but I could hear the doors clicking. But I checked them and found the RR was't actually locked. I locked it manually, closed the door, hit the key fob and now it beeped because the door was locked, it opened fine next time and locked fine a couple times, then started failing again. It did that for about a week, then quit completely.
 
RickC said:
My driver door hard failed, it simply didn't work one time I went to lock it and it never worked again. My RR though, was intermittent for about a week, then went solid. The way it started is I used the key fob to lock the door and the car didn't beep. I would unlock, and it would double beep, but lock and nothing, but I could hear the doors clicking. But I checked them and found the RR was't actually locked. I locked it manually, closed the door, hit the key fob and now it beeped because the door was locked, it opened fine next time and locked fine a couple times, then started failing again. It did that for about a week, then quit completely.
Click to expand...

Ok, I think my driver door lock might be failing because every now and then when I shift into park (there all suppose to unlock) my driver door doesn't unlock, I have to play with button to get it to unlock
 
TRDCal said:
Ok, I think my driver door lock might be failing because every now and then when I shift into park (there all suppose to unlock) my driver door doesn't unlock, I have to play with button to get it to unlock
Click to expand...

That is how my driver door did. I put the car in park and it did a funny chattering noise and that was it. From then on, it would not work. I could manually move the button and it felt like it was in a bind. I took the door panel off and put it back together and although that fixed the bind, the lock never worked again. I think the bind must have been in the actuator instead and pulling it apart just freed it up because you have to remove the cable to get the panel off.
 
Wonder what the failure mode is on these things ?
Stuck from lack of lube ?
Stuck then burned out (internal thermal fuse)? - probably not since they still click but weak-ly.

And the big question, fixable on the bench ?
 
I have wondered if they are repairable too. They don't look like you could get them apart without breaking the plastic. My guess is most of the time, it's electrical causing the failure.
 
I hate the door lock actuators on the 4Runner. I have an 04 that I have replaced the drivers door 3 times and the front passenger twice. As it sits right now the drivers door, front passenger door and the rear passenger locks don't work.

It been annoying having to deal with these so many times.
 
Thanks Rick for putting the parts out there. I'm on the 3rd one to replace now. Did both the front and back on the Driver's side, now the RR is out. Just looking online to find the cheapest for the part. Total crap part...I know this won't be the last one to fix...
 
You can fix it

The sad part about the locks is the part that fails is a little plastic gear with two little “titties” that wear off. The actual gears are the same part on both doors, but the actual lock mechanism is reversed or mirrored for each door. The gear turns one way it locks, the other it unlocks. The little bumps wear off, very, very poor design. The little gear may be available but I don’t know. I fixed mine by taking one off the wrecked passenger door as it didn’t have as much wear.
 
I'm having an issue with a 2003 Toyota 4 Runner rear liftgate latch. I can hear the actuator trying to move, but it doesn't seem to be moving enough to actually open the liftgate. I removed the inner panel and I'm able to manually open the liftgate. Would that mean the actuator is bad and needs to be replaced? Or is there another issue I'm missing here?

Any tips, advice, things to check out, etc. before I order a new actuator? They want $200 for the part only. If there's something else I can try before dropping $200, that would be great.

Any/all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Door lock actuators

I was having trouble with my passenger door lock. Someone on ebay sells the actuator for a little over $100 and they are guaranteed for life. You pay a "core Charge" and he credits your account when you send the "old broken one" back. He does this right away.

Good guy to deal with. They are refurb'ed, but they work fine.
 
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