Door lock problem

[garrez145]

Hello my name is Steven, and this is my first time posting on here. I'm working on my girlfriends 2000 toyota 4runner SR5. We bought the truck with this issue. Both door lock switches inside the truck, drivers door and passengers door, will not lock or unlock. But if we use the key fob, all doors will lock and unlock.

I thought it was the master door switch that was broken. I looked up the price for a new master switch on the drivers door and it's around $400 bucks! I found a used on eBay that claims that the switch is 100% mechanical for 50 bucks. I installed the new used switch and it still doesn't work. I looked up the pin locations on the master switch to lock and unlock. It sounds like pins 4&6 lock and 4&12 unlock. I used a volt meter on both pins and they both read 11.2 volts. And when I did so, the locks didn't not lock or unlock.

I'm thinking that the new used switch is also bad and might need to buy a new new one. Any thoughts before I shell out 400 bucks? I have checked all fuses under the dash and hood. Any ideas of the real problem?
Edit Report

 

[JMunn55]

I have the same problem, except with one rear door. The power locks move the lock slightly, but even when manually pulled it stays down in the locked position. So the door hasn't opened in a few months. I hope somebody knows what's going on

 

[97 _SR5]

Hello my name is Steven, and this is my first time posting on here. I'm working on my girlfriends 2000 toyota 4runner SR5. We bought the truck with this issue. Both door lock switches inside the truck, drivers door and passengers door, will not lock or unlock. But if we use the key fob, all doors will lock and unlock.

I thought it was the master door switch that was broken. I looked up the price for a new master switch on the drivers door and it's around $400 bucks! I found a used on eBay that claims that the switch is 100% mechanical for 50 bucks. I installed the new used switch and it still doesn't work. I looked up the pin locations on the master switch to lock and unlock. It sounds like pins 4&6 lock and 4&12 unlock. I used a volt meter on both pins and they both read 11.2 volts. And when I did so, the locks didn't not lock or unlock.

I'm thinking that the new used switch is also bad and might need to buy a new new one. Any thoughts before I shell out 400 bucks? I have checked all fuses under the dash and hood. Any ideas of the real problem?
Edit Report

here is a link to a door switch that is much cheaper, but non oem:
Dorman 901-703 Power Window Switch : Amazon.com : Automotive



to test the switch itself, remove it. look at the main connector. take your multimeter, and test for continuity. You will be looking at pin 4, 6, and 12. You need to have continuity when you press the lock button between pins 4 and 6, and when you press the unlock button between pins 4 and 12. Pin out in case you need it:

6 5 4 3 2 1
14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7

do all of your doors lock/unlock with your key?

 

[97 _SR5]

I have the same problem, except with one rear door. The power locks move the lock slightly, but even when manually pulled it stays down in the locked position. So the door hasn't opened in a few months. I hope somebody knows what's going on

You will need to remove the rear panel and inspect the lock from the inside. Are you saying that when you put a key in the lock and try turning it it will not unlock?

 

[garrez145]

Thank 97_sr5. I was able to test the switch and I have continuity for both lock and unlock on those pins you where talking about on the drivers door switch. So is it a relay maybe? And I have no idea where the relay is located to test it.

And yes, all doors lock and unlock with the key in the drivers door.

 

[JMunn55]

You will need to remove the rear panel and inspect the lock from the inside. Are you saying that when you put a key in the lock and try turning it it will not unlock?

Being the back door, there's no key hole. I'll have to do my best to get the door panel off with it closed

 

[habanero]

Being the back door, there's no key hole. I'll have to do my best to get the door panel off with it closed

Start with post 1463:
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 74 - YotaTech Forums
Pics of how to remove the panel with the door open, with pics that'll give you an idea of where you need to pry and shows the two pins on either side of the door panel edges.

IF the problem is at the lock pull or the wire that runs to it you may be able to remove the door handle and reach up and try to move it by hand? Might spare you having to attempt to remove the panel with a closed door. Last pic in post 1465 shows the wire I'm talking about in relation to the handle, an inch or so above it. All sorts of pics through post 1475.

Good luck!

 

[Xetabur]

My 2000 sport does the exact same thing. Its irritating as hell.

 

[JMunn55]

Start with post 1463:
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 74 - YotaTech Forums
Pics of how to remove the panel with the door open, with pics that'll give you an idea of where you need to pry and shows the two pins on either side of the door panel edges.

IF the problem is at the lock pull or the wire that runs to it you may be able to remove the door handle and reach up and try to move it by hand? Might spare you having to attempt to remove the panel with a closed door. Last pic in post 1465 shows the wire I'm talking about in relation to the handle, an inch or so above it. All sorts of pics through post 1475.

Good luck!

Thanks! I'll give that a try when I get the chance.

 

[garrez145]

I was able to test both switches on the drivers and passenger doors. They both have continuity when switch is locked or unlocked. I tested the wiring harness on both doors, and they both have 11.2 volts. Why doesn't the switches in the cab work? Everything else works, key fob lock and unlock, key in drivers door, lock and unlock.

 

[97 _SR5]

I was able to test both switches on the drivers and passenger doors. They both have continuity when switch is locked or unlocked. I tested the wiring harness on both doors, and they both have 11.2 volts. Why doesn't the switches in the cab work? Everything else works, key fob lock and unlock, key in drivers door, lock and unlock.

The problem is not with your switch. Since you can lock/unlock your doors with your key in door or key fob your problem is in the switch circuit or the integration relay (there are actually 6 separate circuits for the door lock/unlock: 2 for lock/unlock with key in door, 2 for lock/unlock with key fob, and 2 for lock/unlock with door switch). You need to test the door harness for continuity first. Remove the switch from the driver's door, remove the left lower kick panel, you will see 2 plugs there. The switch actually has multiple wires for lock/unlock. you might get good supply voltage to the switch, but no ground or no return signal. You need to check for continuity on the red wire, red/white wire, brown wire, light blue, green/yellow wire. These wires run through your door harness so test from plug that goes into your door switch to the plugs under the l/s kick panel. If all wires have continuity, then you need to physically look at the wires going from the plug under the kick panel to the integration relay. If all those wires look good. I would suspect your integration relay at fault here. They are about $100 to purchase. I'm thinking you have a broken wire in the door harness, probably between the door and body inside the rubber boot. If you do not get any continuity on either wire mentioned above, you need to remove the door harness from the door and repair the broken wire. If you do have to make a repair do NOT use a butt connector, the repair needs to be soldered for resistance reasons and also the butt connect will fail again.

Rafal

picture from fsm for reference:

 

[garrez145]

Thanks! Your awesome. I'll get back with you when I test those wires.

 

[JMunn55]

Mine has nothing to do with the power locks. It was converted to power locks by the previous owner. The return spring in the latch itself was preventing the door from unlocking. Got the door open but the problem still occurred. Took the latch right out, and the spring is just too weak. I lubed everything up but no go. I hope I can order a new latch from the dealership

 

[VolcanoT4R]

I haven't experienced this problem myself, but I remember reading about a similar problem in another post. Seem to remember that everyone found the problem to be in the driver side junction box and that replacing it fixed their issues. Here's where it is located:



I think a new JB will run you a few hundred dollars. First thing I would do is unplug all the fuses/relays and then re-plug them back in. If that doesn't solve the issue, the next best thing to confirm that this is the issue is to find a known, working JB to test the theory.

I'll try to find the site where I read about this.

 

[VolcanoT4R]

I believe this is the thread from toyotanation that I read:

4runner door locks don't work anymore - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

 

[BlackWorksInc]

We have run into junction blocks on Land Cruisers causing a few issues including a similar complaint.

I would also recommend you do what [MENTION=105062]97 _SR5[/MENTION] suggested, as the vehicles get older we're all going to see more work hardened harnesses breaking at the joint between the door and the body due to flexing of the harness from opening and closing.

In fact what's funny is I have seen this with window issues and door locks, you could open the door to a certain point and the window or door locks would work, once you opened/closed the door past that point the wiring harness would lose connection and fail to work.