Door lock SOMETIMES doesn't work?

[leatherlips]

I have a 2014 and in the past few months the driver door sometimes wont unlock. Most times it works fine. the other doors seem to work even when this happens. I can use the physical key to open the door when this happens, or I can also open the locks from the passenger side using the unlock button on that door.
I'm thinking its NOT the actuator because the lock can be opened using the passenger door unlock button. Anyone else have similar experience?

 

[fkheath]

I have a 2014 and in the past few months the driver door sometimes wont unlock. Most times it works fine. the other doors seem to work even when this happens. I can use the physical key to open the door when this happens, or I can also open the locks from the passenger side using the unlock button on that door.
I'm thinking its NOT the actuator because the lock can be opened using the passenger door unlock button. Anyone else have similar experience?

Lubricate the mechanism with WD-40.

 

[ahtoxa11]

I have a 2014 and in the past few months the driver door sometimes wont unlock. Most times it works fine. the other doors seem to work even when this happens. I can use the physical key to open the door when this happens, or I can also open the locks from the passenger side using the unlock button on that door.
I'm thinking its NOT the actuator because the lock can be opened using the passenger door unlock button. Anyone else have similar experience?

When this happens, do you hear the mechanism attempting to work but not able to? There might be a noise you can hear when that happens. if so, perhaps there's friction or binding somewhere and maybe it can be lubed. Does it happen when it's cold out? Perhaps there's some ice forming that jams it. In this case, WD-40 would eliminate water from the unit. Otherwise, if lubing, use something else. WD-40 isn't really a lubricant. Something lithium-based would be good.

If the mechanism doesn't seem to physically be trying, it could be a loose connection. I'd pop the door card off and see what you see - might be obvious if it's intermittent. Go through connections - check for obvious corrosion, perhaps put dielectric grease on them.

That's where I'd start.

 

[jhguth]

this is how mine acted in the early stages of the actuator failing. for the $10 it costs to replace the actuator motor, i'd try that before spending a lot of effort troubleshooting other things

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Do not use WD-40 or spray Lithium Grease, they'll gum up the actuator assembly or muck up the minor amount of electronics in the actuator assembly (I know that seems counter intuitive since there is grease in the assembly, but we have a decades long tech-tip standing from Toyota about using cleaners/lubricants around the actuators and premature failure). If you want to use something, try a fast drying silicone lubricant, it's not ideal but at least it'll limit the amount of gumming up in there.

The next time your door starts acting up, open the door and bang on the latch end of the door (either with your fist or a deadblow) IF the actuator starts working as if nothing is wrong and/or still acts weak, it's failing and needs to be replaced.

There's two routes you can go; the first is getting a factory actuator assembly and replacing it yourself (or having a shop do it), the second is finding the part number of the electric motor inside the actuator assembly (Dealership can't help you here, I believe some old threads might have that information, usually you can order them online or get them from a hobby store) and rebuild the actuator yourself (if you do rebuild it, get a little bit of white lithium grease to relube where the factory lubed the original actuator when you have it apart.)

I would not recommend an aftermarket actuator unless it's made by the Denso or Asin (the two OEMs who make our door lock actuators usually if I remember), I've seen a lot of crib deaths and early deaths with those auto-parts store units and honestly even how much cheaper they are, I'd hate to replace the damn things yearly/monthly.

Hope that helps.

 

[OJ VanHuesan]

Yep just bought 13 SR5, all doors lock and unlock except for driver door. Actuator

 

[ScottyC]

Same experience

I am having the same experience with my 2002. I can pull the "lock button" up manually.... It will not unlock when using the FOB - all other doors and hatch will. I can also hear it trying to unlock.

The "lock button" is very difficult to pull up.

Ideas are welcome.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I am having the same experience with my 2002. I can pull the "lock button" up manually.... It will not unlock when using the FOB - all other doors and hatch will. I can also hear it trying to unlock.

The "lock button" is very difficult to pull up.

Ideas are welcome.

Sounds like your actuator motor is shot

 

[mbumpus11]

Sounds like your actuator motor is shot

Yup - I agree with [MENTION=51033]97BlackAckCL[/MENTION]. This is what mine did before it failed and led to my write up.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2773142-post1.html

Not sure if it will be 1:1 with a 2002 since I wrote this for a 2015, but I imagine it is pretty similar overall.

 

[cullowheebandit]

I had a similar issue with my old car, where the driver door lock would sometimes refuse to unlock, but the rest of the doors worked fine. In my case, the actuator motor was weak and eventually failed completely. Before replacing it, I tried lubricating the mechanism, but it only helped temporarily. If you can still hear the actuator trying to work, it’s likely just wearing out.

If it does fail completely and you need help getting back into your car, it might be worth calling an auto locksmith. They can usually get the door open without damaging anything, which is a lifesaver in an emergency.