Door locks acting up!
- Thread starter duckman06
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I'm having a similar issue. Also a '13. From some research and asking around, I've been told it's likely a door actuator failure. A friend of mine had the same problem with his tundra.
I really wish there was a recall for these because it seems to be a very common problem with these 5th gens and can be very costly to fix.
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I really wish there was a recall for these because it seems to be a very common problem with these 5th gens and can be very costly to fix.
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rigtec
New member
Hi duckman,
I don't know for sure but my guess would be to MASTER RESET the ECUs' by disconnecting the truck's battery for a minimum of four hrs. This gives the memory circuits a chance to fully drain. When you reconnect the battery and attempt to start the vehicle, it will start, then shut-off... this is normal! Start it again and you should be back to normal.
The problem is that, just like a windows computer, the ECU stores temporary files (History logs); which end up using up a lot of memory and causing files to become corrupt. A master reset is just like shutting down your computer from time to time to restore it's proper performance. Give it a try and let us know if the result is favorable; if so, others may follow your actions and experience the same success! If not, perhaps others here may offer a better solution!
Rgds
ECUDrummer
New member
Probably a dumb question, but are you sure all of the doors are actually locking?
When my front actuators failed the beep you're referring to was nonexistent.
When my front actuators failed the beep you're referring to was nonexistent.
wfo9
New member
Apparently 2013 has some flaw with the door actuators or some related electronics. Seems to be a very common problem on 2013, but does impact all years.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/194788-lock-actuator-fails-6th-time.html#post1988821
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/194788-lock-actuator-fails-6th-time.html#post1988821
Sleeter
New member
Does it impacts ALL years? I could only find examples from years 2010-2014. Looks like the vast majority are coming from 2013s. I agree with your post in the linked thread, it seems there is a underlying issue that is causing this. Possibly the switch as [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] suggested.
Duckman.. I'm having the same issue with my wifes 2010 SR5. I just ordered a new Dorman 931-401 actuator for the drivers side off of Amazon. I'll be putting it in this weekend and see if that does the trick. From what I have read on other posts its most likely the little $5 DC motor inside the actuator assembly that is failing. The replacement motor is a Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 but there are like 5 different shafts available and I didn't know which one was correct. After I get the old actuator out I'll tear it apart and see which motor I need to order to fix the passenger side lock. I'll let you know what I find, its most likely the same motor you will need.
UPDATE:
I finally got around to replacing the actuator on the front drivers door and the actuator motor on the front passengers door. Both are back in working order, lock, unlock and beeps like it is supposed to.
Its not a real difficult task and can be done in about an hour each. Here are the references I used:
http://www.dormanproducts.com - to find the actuator part number if you don't want to rebuild your existing one to replace the motor. paid $160 for one on Amazon.
CAS234 has a YouTube video that explains how to replace the motor. thanks to anther post for this find.
You will need the Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 10mm Flat Shaft if you are just replacing the motor. paid $30 for a pack of 4 on Amazon
If you are out of warranty like I am, it was well worth the money saved to do it myself instead of taking it to the dealer.
UPDATE:
I finally got around to replacing the actuator on the front drivers door and the actuator motor on the front passengers door. Both are back in working order, lock, unlock and beeps like it is supposed to.
Its not a real difficult task and can be done in about an hour each. Here are the references I used:
http://www.dormanproducts.com - to find the actuator part number if you don't want to rebuild your existing one to replace the motor. paid $160 for one on Amazon.
CAS234 has a YouTube video that explains how to replace the motor. thanks to anther post for this find.
You will need the Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 10mm Flat Shaft if you are just replacing the motor. paid $30 for a pack of 4 on Amazon
If you are out of warranty like I am, it was well worth the money saved to do it myself instead of taking it to the dealer.
Last edited:
I have 14 TE and already had both rear door actuators replaced under warranty. Unfortunately, the front passenger door is not locking now. With my failures, clicking the key fob would lock the doors with functioning actuators, but not beep. If you manually lock the affected doors, they will stay locked and the key fob lock will beep.
duckman06
New member
Thanks to all of you for all the info. All the doors to lock but no beep. They also lock twice when button is pushed and do the same thing when driving at 15mph or higher twice.
bloodninja
New member
What are you guys using to replace the weather stripping around the lock area after you open it to replace the motor? I just ordered 4 motors from ebay (Flat Shaft, Standard Length), and that's the only loose end I haven't tied up. I take my truck off road, through mud, deep water, etc, and would rather not muck up the actuator itself.
I'm referring to the weather tape/strip thing that goes around the actual lock area itself, between the actuator and the frame of the door. It looks like it's some sort of foam tape, but I don't know how I'd go about describing it for purchase.... Every search result I'm seeing is for the rubber strip that goes around the length of the door. That's not what I'm interested in.
I'm referring to the weather tape/strip thing that goes around the actual lock area itself, between the actuator and the frame of the door. It looks like it's some sort of foam tape, but I don't know how I'd go about describing it for purchase.... Every search result I'm seeing is for the rubber strip that goes around the length of the door. That's not what I'm interested in.
duckman06
New member
I unhooked the battery and let it set for a full day. That didn't change anything. I called and talked to my dealership and asked them/told them what was going on. They said if it was the motor or actuator that the locks would not be working right at all? So I trying to see if that is true or not?
bloodninja
New member
From my limited knowledge of electric magnetic motors, i.e. my ceiling fan, that's not the case. My ceiling fan motor started slowing down over months, and now it barely spins at all. It didn't just die instantly.
In the case of the ceiling fan, that’s probably because the motor start capacitor is defective. Dry bearings is another possibility.
ellis
duckman06
New member
Found the problem today finally it failed and or acted up! The pass. side door will not lock or unlock with remote. If I manual lock the door it beeps etc... but want lock or unlock so that is the door where the problem is. What is the next step to determine what part it is that failed?
bloodninja
New member
I think I understood some of what you said. I'd recommend just replacing the motor. That's likely what the problem is. Super cheap and easy to do yourself.
duckman06
New member
Thanks for the response. Where is the best place to get the motor from and what all is involved changing it? That door will unlock or lock unless manual done...
