Door Trim Clip Part Number?

[0xfded]

Anyone know if the plastic clips used to hold on the door trim can be obtained separately from the entire trim assembly?

It's these little ones (not the externally visible ones), and each door uses 4-5 of them:



I haven't been able to tease them out of the usual part lists, and I need to order a bunch of them. Or, failing that, design and print a substitute. Any help much appreciated!

 

[0xfded]

Hah, completely by accident, I think I found them:

http://www.amazon.com/Panel-Retainers-Toyota-Tacoma-67771-30070

Figure an 02 Tacoma is close enough to risk $9 on.

 

[Southernbike]

This might be what you are looking for
TRIM PANEL ASSY RETAINER | Genuine Toyota | 67771-12050

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...l=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=67771-12050

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't remember the part number. I broke about 4 of them when doing the speakers on mine so I just went to the dealership and bought a few. They do NOT cost $9 each. Save some time, they always have some in stock.

 

[pauldub]

Try this 2000 TOYOTA 4Runner LUXURY(-0008),LIMITED(000 3400CC EFI, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED FRONT DOOR PANEL & GLASS

 

[0xfded]

Thank you for the recommendations everyone! I have some on the way, I'll report back if they're a correct match.

I don't remember the part number. I broke about 4 of them when doing the speakers on mine so I just went to the dealership and bought a few. They do NOT cost $9 each. Save some time, they always have some in stock.

Ah, definitely not--it was $9 for a pack of 25. I would have gone straight to 3D printing if they'd been that much.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thank you for the recommendations everyone! I have some on the way, I'll report back if they're a correct match.



Ah, definitely not--it was $9 for a pack of 25. I would have gone straight to 3D printing if they'd been that much.

Gotcha! I think I paid $1 each or somewhere around there. So unless you need a ton of them the dealer is your best bet.

Also, when removing panel and trim pieces you want to jerk things off. The slow prying is what makes them bend and break.

 

[0xfded]

Gotcha! I think I paid $1 each or somewhere around there. So unless you need a ton of them the dealer is your best bet.

Also, when removing panel and trim pieces you want to jerk things off. The slow prying is what makes them bend and break.

Yeah, I need to replace a bunch of them, on all four doors and the B pillars. When I did my big soundproofing install, some of them wound up bent or broken, so things aren't holding together well. Finally getting around to fixing that now that I have the panels off for other reasons.

Good tip on the quick pull, I'll remember that in the future.

 

[runnyrunnerton]

I did a thread for this a while back. Should have the part numbers and the count. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143023-limited-fender-flare-cladding-removal-re-install.html

 

[gamefreakgc]

On mine when I upgraded the stereo and added soundproofing, almost all of the insulation had fallen off anyway lol. So they were all the same.

 

[0xfded]

P.S. Dude who mentioned B-pillar clips a couple posts ago. Similar style but larger and different TPN.

Oh yeah? Buggery. I broke at least two of those and need to replace them. I figured they'd be the same clip, but I guess I should have checked.

Interesting that there's a padded and unpadded version. I wonder what difference they make, given how tightly they clip into the panel and the door itself.

 

[0xfded]

FWIW2, you could probably assemble the door panel with a fresh new set of all padded, all non-padded, or mix and match and struggle to determine an objective difference. I believe it has to do with grounding/terminating mechanical vibration, somewhat analogous to putting two rubber bumper pads and one metal cone under your turntable, or in electrical terms something like a single-point ground.

In my case, the whole reason a bunch of them are busted in the first place is because I've installed a sound barrier layer of mass-loaded vinyl and closed cell foam, and the whole thing is sandwiched in there. It's almost certainly not capable of vibrating--huge contact surfaces between the panel and door itself.

Too much contact, as it turns out, so it tends to pop the clips back out, which is made worse by a few being missing. I have to thin that barrier out a bit.

But barring a total success of the clips I ordered (should arrive tomorrow), I may look into getting a set of these padded ones. Especially since I'll have to order difference ones for the B pillar. Boo.

 

[Rock_Rat]

In my case, the whole reason a bunch of them are busted in the first place is because I've installed a sound barrier layer of mass-loaded vinyl and closed cell foam, and the whole thing is sandwiched in there. It's almost certainly not capable of vibrating--huge contact surfaces between the panel and door itself.

Too much contact, as it turns out, so it tends to pop the clips back out, which is made worse by a few being missing. I have to thin that barrier out a bit.

But barring a total success of the clips I ordered (should arrive tomorrow), I may look into getting a set of these padded ones. Especially since I'll have to order difference ones for the B pillar. Boo.

I just finally finished up the front doors after installing the new Alpine speakers. You know I used closed cell foam throughout my entire rig but I'm amazed you were able to fit it in your door with the MLV. Did you use 3m 90? I tried but decided to just run two strips of the Fat Mat on the inside door panel and then replaced the sheet of plastic with the Dynamat Extreme on the outside.

 

[0xfded]

I just finally finished up the front doors after installing the new Alpine speakers. You know I used closed cell foam throughout my entire rig but I'm amazed you were able to fit it in your door with the MLV. Did you use 3m 90? I tried but decided to just run two strips of the Fat Mat on the inside door panel and then replaced the sheet of plastic with the Dynamat Extreme on the outside.

"Fit" is really a generous description for how those MLV barriers (with CCF on both sides) went in. It's not a 3M product, just generic 1lb barrier, and I figure it was somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4" thick.

In any event, the clearance in a couple of places appears to be -1/16", so I trimmed it back from those areas and need do to that some more. The top end is fine on account of the window sill clip and brute force of the screws by the handrest, but the bottom never wanted to stay closed.

The B pillars are a different story, all their problems are due to the floor being thicker. That one is going to be easy to fix with the dremel. The hardest part is going to be fixing what I screw up with the dremel.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I also have sound proofing in almost all of my vehicle. Really does help but MAN is it a lot of work. I used Raam Mat, same stuff as Dynomat but for half the price.

If I were to do it again though, I should have done the passenger floor. I did half the fire wall which did help but now most of my sound bleed is through the floor (rest is behind the dash but I'm not about to rip out the entire dash to do that). Carpet alone isn't enough apparently.

I did two layers in the rear cargo area too which helped immensely. Now it acts more like a custom enclosure for my sub, sounds way better than before. Better mid-bass all around too like others mentioned.

 

[0xfded]

I also have sound proofing in almost all of my vehicle. Really does help but MAN is it a lot of work.

Amen to that. Last summer, I did the whole shebang: damping tiles, MLV barrier and CCF isolation, doors, roof, and the entire floor pan.

Took over a week. Bunch of posts about it in my build thread.

And I don't think I would do nearly as much next time around. It is subjectively quieter, but holy balls was it ever a lot of work. And I figure it still isn't completely done, on account of the door panels not fitting quite right.

On the subject of clips, the no-names I ordered arrived and are flimsier--which is what you'd expect for 25 of them for $9. But they are fresh plastic, and none will be missing, so I'm refitting panels today. If they end up not working out, I now have all the real part numbers I could ask for--thanks so much to everyone who chimed in.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

Nice write up. :couch2: