Door unlock/lock problem

JC41

JC41

New member
My doors have been having a problem on my 99 toyota 4runner limited. Most of the time I have to push down my locks manually because when I hit lock button it will either lock none of the doors or some of them. It always makes the noise in all the doors that it is being lock/unlocked. I also have the Excalibur Omega AL-1850-EDPB and the key fob will do the same exact thing that it does if I was to push the lock button on the door. Can somebody please help me troubleshoot this problem?
 
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Does everything work with your rear hatch? (window up down, and cargo light when you open it) Also, how is your MPX-B fuse under the hood?

I had horrendous problems with the locking of mine when I first got it, but ended up being a bunch of wires cut in the loom going to the hatch.

I first thought it was the BCU, but this might be a good place to look before spending the $$$ to make sure... Otherwise... See above :/
 
Good god! Are you serious? That's the only fix besides manually locking the doors? That is the most ridiculous thing I've heard all day! I love toyota but all the technology in these older vehicles were useless, at least in my case, because they all have some kind of ridiculous problem.
 
volkinator said:
Does everything work with your rear hatch? (window up down, and cargo light when you open it) Also, how is your MPX-B fuse under the hood?

I had horrendous problems with the locking of mine when I first got it, but ended up being a bunch of wires cut in the loom going to the hatch.

I first thought it was the BCU, but this might be a good place to look before spending the $$$ to make sure... Otherwise... See above :/
Click to expand...

Rehatch is fine, everything works how it's suppose to. Where is the MPX-B fuse?
 
JC41 said:
My doors have been having a problem on my 99 toyota 4runner limited. Most of the time I have to push down my locks manually because when I hit lock button it will either lock none of the doors or some of them. It always makes the noise in all the doors that it is being lock/unlocked. I also have the Excalibur Omega AL-1850-EDPB and the key fob will do the same exact thing that it does if I was to push the lock button on the door. Can somebody please help me troubleshoot this problem?
Click to expand...

OK, so let's back up a little here. Your post states very clearly that you ALWAYS here the noise in the doors of the actuators trying to lock or unlock. That is generally not a Body ECU issue. That is an actuator issue. You can confirm this by checking the output at the Body ECU, or at the actuators themselves. That being the case if the voltage and grounds are good, and switching, the failure is in the actuators themselves. You can search "door lock actuators" in this forum and find TONS of threads. Here is my own thread on replacing just the motor inside the actuator.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/202720-door-lock-motor-replacement.html I bought two motors for $16 on ebay, lots of them available.

:ballchain:
 
[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] so you'd start with checking the output of the fuse box under the drivers kick panel. Then check the voltages at the actuator? What should be the readings?

This maybe a dumb question but if the output of the fuse box was under the required voltages wouldn't that mean that all of the fuses plugged in it would be low voltage also?
 
JC41 said:
[MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] so you'd start with checking the output of the fuse box under the drivers kick panel. Then check the voltages at the actuator? What should be the readings?

This maybe a dumb question but if the output of the fuse box was under the required voltages wouldn't that mean that all of the fuses plugged in it would be low voltage also?
Click to expand...

Nope, not a dumb question. First of all, if you check at the actuator, then if it's good, you can rule out the fuse box as the problem. As for the reading themselves, it's doubtful you'd get "low" readings, although not impossible. It's more likely you'll not get power and ground when you should. Here is the link to the pages of the EWD related to the door lock operation.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/032dlc.pdf

If you look at page 4, and confirm the service hints section you will be golden.

:cheer2:
 
Thanks guys I will jump on this tomorrow stay tuned. Would this also fix the problem on why I can't lock/unlock my 4R with my key fob that came with my after market push botton start/security system?

P.S. The remote is programmed..
 
IBallEngineer said:
OK, so let's back up a little here. Your post states very clearly that you ALWAYS here the noise in the doors of the actuators trying to lock or unlock. That is generally not a Body ECU issue. That is an actuator issue. You can confirm this by checking the output at the Body ECU, or at the actuators themselves. That being the case if the voltage and grounds are good, and switching, the failure is in the actuators themselves. You can search "door lock actuators" in this forum and find TONS of threads. Here is my own thread on replacing just the motor inside the actuator.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/202720-door-lock-motor-replacement.html I bought two motors for $16 on ebay, lots of them available.

:ballchain:
Click to expand...

Good call, overlooked on my phone that he said some of the doors will and some will not. Agreed, more likely actuator issue. If ALL doors start to do it at the same time and sometimes will or will not lock, then it points to the control module I outlined.
 
Okay since there seems to be some confusion, I'm saying that sometimes it will lock some of the doors and sometimes I won't lock any of them but they all try to go down at the same time
 
JC41 said:
This is what is happening...
Click to expand...

Gotcha, those were my symptoms as well - exactly. Sometimes they will and sometimes they would not lock. Sometimes they would all struggle to unlock. Other times, they all worked perfectly normal. But all were affected at the same time. Mine ended up being the body control module in the fuse panel as I mentioned. Like I said, loads of them in the yards, just match up part numbers and you should be good to go unless it is some other crazy issue.

I went brand new as I will be keeping the car until she dies a mangled death and I wanted to find out if they made revisions to the new PCB. Only rev I could find was just a different door lock relay is all. I could have saved cash by going used... a lot of cash... but at least I do not have to worry about it for 250K miles or so :P
 
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I agree 100%. I don't buy many used parts and I want this thing to go with me until the wheels fall off... then I'm gunna put some more on it.. when the motor goes out I will just drop a bigger one in it and upgrade on a bunch of other parts. As of now it's just a dream though. But with me going to school at Nashville Auto-Diesel College, hopefully when I get out and get a job I will be making the money to get the right build.
 
JC41 said:
Rehatch is fine, everything works how it's suppose to. Where is the MPX-B fuse?
Click to expand...

MPX-B fuse is under the hood in the fuse box. However, with the above it might not be the culprit. Just figured it's a quick 5 second check that you can eliminate. I'm honestly not really sure what it does, but it's what lead me to the culprit of my rear hatch wires.
 
Front door lock issues

I know this is a old thread, but figure maybe somebody has some advice. Done ton of searching here but nothing sounds similar.

So I got a 99 4runner limited 2WD-I know its for work with lots of driving, plus live down south.

Anyway, purchased a keyless remote. Tried to program, but the front door lock motors got lazy after sever cycles. So, thanks to this forum I found the motors online and for $20 got 4 motors to fix my power door lock actuators. Replaced both front motors. They worked for few minutes while I was doing the programing cycle, then just stopped. The 2 rear work, but nothing on the front 2. After more research, thought my dash fuse panel was going bad and replaced. Thanks Rob for the good price. New panel in and the 2 rear locks sound much stronger but still nothing on the 2 front. Meaning nothing when you push the rocker on both passenger and driver side and nothing when you try to open with key from the outside.

I beat today after installing new Kenwood Nav radio, swapping fuse panel and swapping powerstop rotors, as 1st set was causing vibration so they sent me another set free, Anyways, too tired to remove door panel today. But could both new motors be shot already in like 5 minutes? Fuses are good as the rear locks work. I assume if the driver side rocker switch was bad the passenger switch would work, but nothing.

So, I guess the only thing I can do is check power at the connector to the actuator to see if its getting power. If yes swap the 2 spare motors. If not, not sure where to go from here. Any advice would be great. Thanks.
 
Power Door Locks Fixed

Well, it was killing me about the front door locks not working, so I took off the passenger panel first. Once I got the actuator off saw the issue. Made a noob mistake. When I installed the new motor (4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125)

I put some silicone to keep water out, but that was not strong enough with the torque of the new motors so the case came open, letting the motor to come off the leads. So, I made sure they worked when re sealed and the put some crazy glue on the seams. After dry, I made sure they still worked and installed them back in. Got everything put together and was finally able to program my keyless remotes with the door locks working.

Above are the motors that will work. They need to have the collar as that is what hold the screw gear. Otherwise plug right it. They were $20 for 4 on Fleabay.

Hope that helps others. :rockon:
 
IBallEngineer said:
Nope, not a dumb question. First of all, if you check at the actuator, then if it's good, you can rule out the fuse box as the problem. As for the reading themselves, it's doubtful you'd get "low" readings, although not impossible. It's more likely you'll not get power and ground when you should. Here is the link to the pages of the EWD related to the door lock operation.
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/032dlc.pdf

If you look at page 4, and confirm the service hints section you will be golden.

:cheer2:
Click to expand...

IBall, thanks for posting this wiring diagram. However how do I match the connector on the Body ECU to the cowl wiring harness plug? Looks like the connector is labeled B16?
 
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