driver door buzzer

[flambow-five]

Hi Guys, I am new to the Gen 1 deal but have been an avid 4wheeler for 25 years. Just picked up a clean 85 with 4.88 gears, lift kit, 160K, etc. I am ripping out all floor material and rolling DURABAK on it and repalcing all side panels with aluminum diamond plate. I have aguy making me a bimini top for when cap is removed.
I have a few questions.
1. How can I get rid of that buzzer when drivers door is open?
2. Any other performance mods to squeeze more power?
3. WHat options for better braking?

ANy help would be awesome

Jim-from the great cheese state, hoem of the GREEN BAY PACKERS!

 

[fourwd1]

Hi Guys, I am new to the Gen 1 deal but have been an avid 4wheeler for 25 years. Just picked up a clean 85 with 4.88 gears, lift kit, 160K, etc. I am ripping out all floor material and rolling DURABAK on it and repalcing all side panels with aluminum diamond plate. I have aguy making me a bimini top for when cap is removed.
I have a few questions.
1. How can I get rid of that buzzer when drivers door is open?

Under the dash to the right of the steering column there is a 2-wire harness from the key sensor in the ign switch. Just disconnect it. (IIRC it's grey wires)

2. Any other performance mods to squeeze more power?

Header, cam, hi-perf head

3. WHat options for better braking?

Land Cruiser vented rotors + calipers from a V6 IFS truck.
It's all bolt on, but some dis-assembly of the front axle hubs/knuckles is required.

 

[flambow-five]

What about trying to get ebrake to work? I have another carcass with a manual in it that I might swap but will need ebrake. I know they are marginal from the start. I have springs and blocks in the back and the current cable will not go over or under springs to connect to ebrake lever on back of drum.

Any thoughts on auto vs manual?

thanks
Jim

 

[fourwd1]

I made some extensions for the levers on the backing plate and slightly relocated the cable mount so they'd clear over the springs.

 

[the_dingman]

The door buzzer should only beep if the door is open while the ignition is on, if it's always going off, you want to make sure you're actually turning off the ignition all the way before removing the key. On my original 1st gen, the key was so worn down it could be removed any time, and as I'd never seen a truck with the 'key release' button, I was only turning it to 'Acc' thinking it was off. If you're not hitting the key release button on the top of the steering column, that may be your problem.

I had rewired that one by cutting the wire from the door sensor, then splicing a wire into the passanger door sensor to keep the dome light working.

 

[locknload]

This is the harness I unplugged on my 86 to kill the buzzer. This mod also retains your dome/door panel lights. Don't just unplug the buzzer box or you will lose your dome light.
I also epoxied the key release (little black button on top of the colum) in the down position so I never have to press it again when removing my key.

Good advice on the perf. mods. Header and exhaust make a big difference just don't go too big on the exhaust. 2 1/4" is a good size to use. Don't remove your cat, you'll lose ALOT of torque. Do, replace it with a new high-flow cat. Yours is probably old and clogged up.

fourwd1, any pics of your e-brake brackets? I had a similar idea.