Drivers Door Key Problem

[blk-betty]

Couple weeks ago posted about a problem with the auto lock on drivers door. During the time it wouldn't work I just used my physical key to lock and unlock the drivers door.

After a few days the darn key itself wouldn't work and I had no way to lock the car.

In the mean time I ordered a new auto lock mechanism and just intstalled it this morning. I thought the key issue was related to the auto lock and assumed it would work after the install.

No problems installing the new auto lock and it works perfectly using both the switch on the door panel and the key fob......but the physical key still won't lock or unlock the drivers door.

The key inserts into the keyhole but its hard to turn. It will turn counterclock wise almost 90 degrees but clockwise only about 45degrees. I sprayed lube on the key and removed the plug in the door and sprayed the spring mechanism but still won't work.

The strange thing is the physical key worked fine for about 5 days but then it wouldn't work at all so I assumed the key and the auto lock are independent of each other but somehow linked since either one should lock or unlock the door.

So what now, is my keyed lock mechanism shot or did I install the auto lock unit incorrectly?

 

[blk-betty]

No suggestions?

 

[cabowally]

No suggestions?

Four things:

1. Your description of the problem you are having isn't real clear. i.e: What's an "auto lock?" Do you mean the keyless entry?

2. When you say you replaced the "auto lock" what did you replace? Not trying to be an ass but the keyless system is comprised of:

Door Module
Keyless Entry
Keyless Entry Module
Keyless Entry Receiver
Keyless Entry Transmitter
Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery
Power Door Lock Actuator
Power Door Lock Control Module
Power Door Lock Switch

3. The fact that your actual key won't turn completely in the cylinder is a completely different issue.

4. I would suggest that you search the forum for a link (there are a bunch) to a Factory Service Manual for a 4Gen. When you get it, drill into the sub-directory that covers door locks and keyless entry components. I'm guessing that will answer your questions.

 

[blk-betty]

Four things:

1. Your description of the problem you are having isn't real clear. i.e: What's an "auto lock?" Do you mean the keyless entry?

2. When you say you replaced the "auto lock" what did you replace? Not trying to be an ass but the keyless system is comprised of:

Door Module
Keyless Entry
Keyless Entry Module
Keyless Entry Receiver
Keyless Entry Transmitter
Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery
Power Door Lock Actuator
Power Door Lock Control Module
Power Door Lock Switch

3. The fact that your actual key won't turn completely in the cylinder is a completely different issue.

4. I would suggest that you search the forum for a link (there are a bunch) to a Factory Service Manual for a 4Gen. When you get it, drill into the sub-directory that covers door locks and keyless entry components. I'm guessing that will answer your questions.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Guess I wasn't clear. The keyless entry would lock and unlock all doors except the drivers front. I posted a question here and it was suggested that the power door lock actuator was bad.

When the actuator failed, I began using the actual key to lock and unlock the drivers door but after a few days while waiting for the door lock acutator to arrive after ordering it, the actual key would no longer lock or unlock the drivers door.

I received the actuator and installed in and now the key fob and the door panel switch will lock and unlcok the drivers door exactly as it's done over the last 8 years since new.

However, I still can't lock or unlock using the key, not the fob, the actual key.

So the question was/is, is the lock cylinder that accepts the key faulty and was it just a coincidence that the 2 parts failed within days of each other, or did I not install the actuator correctly. I ask becasue the top of the actuator had a piece sticking out that looked like it lined up with the key cylinder inside the door panel but I couldn't see in there to know if it meshed up flush with the cylinder or not. I was able to get the 3 screws lined up and tightned down on the side panel of the door at the lock catch without any trouble but I couldn't get it to sit comfortably inplace without using the screws to pull it tight.

So now I'm wondering if I didn't seat the actuator correctly so that everything that needed to line up actually did.......or, again is it just coincidence that the actuator and cylinder failed at nearly the same time.

Guess I need to search the factory service manual.

 

[Equinn13818]

same issue

Thanks for the suggestions.

Guess I wasn't clear. The keyless entry would lock and unlock all doors except the drivers front. I posted a question here and it was suggested that the power door lock actuator was bad.

When the actuator failed, I began using the actual key to lock and unlock the drivers door but after a few days while waiting for the door lock acutator to arrive after ordering it, the actual key would no longer lock or unlock the drivers door.

I received the actuator and installed in and now the key fob and the door panel switch will lock and unlcok the drivers door exactly as it's done over the last 8 years since new.

However, I still can't lock or unlock using the key, not the fob, the actual key.

So the question was/is, is the lock cylinder that accepts the key faulty and was it just a coincidence that the 2 parts failed within days of each other, or did I not install the actuator correctly. I ask becasue the top of the actuator had a piece sticking out that looked like it lined up with the key cylinder inside the door panel but I couldn't see in there to know if it meshed up flush with the cylinder or not. I was able to get the 3 screws lined up and tightned down on the side panel of the door at the lock catch without any trouble but I couldn't get it to sit comfortably inplace without using the screws to pull it tight.

So now I'm wondering if I didn't seat the actuator correctly so that everything that needed to line up actually did.......or, again is it just coincidence that the actuator and cylinder failed at nearly the same time.

Guess I need to search the factory service manual.

did you ever slove this problem because I am having the same problem now and can use some help.

 

[fdbyrne]

I had the same issue with an older Tacoma. I thought that the lock mechanism was just broken. I ordered a new key from the dealer which was cut from the VIN so I knew it was correct. It still didn't work.

I stuck the red straw from the WD40 bottle into the key hole, gave it a few blasts and then it worked. Spray some lube, work the lock back and forth with the key, spray some more, and you may just fix the problem. It worked for me and stayed fixed until I sold the truck 3 years later.

 

[Asmara]

I'd get a key cut to the VIN and try that (while the lubrication suggestion might work). When my battery died completely once, I only had one key that would open the driver's door and rear hatch. The other keys had worn down over the years (at the same rate as the ignition switch) and no longer worked.

The new keys cut to the VIN worked everywhere.