drivers power lock switch works but not unlock?

[thegipper]

97 V6 SR5 auto 204k no remote locks

Ok I'm actually having a few issues with the locks and it goes like this:

1. If I hit the drivers side lock switch button all doors lock but the drivers door. If I hit the unlock switch, nothing happens on any door and no noise is made (click of relay ect)

2. If I use the key on the outside on the drivers door, it will manually lock and unlock the door. If I turn it to the lock position, it also locks all of the other doors. Turning it to the unlock position, does not unlock all of the other doors (not sure its supposed to).

3. Passenger side door switch works for lock and unlock. All doors (minus the drivers door) lock and unlock like normal.

4. All other windows switches work fine.

So this is what I think:

I tried taking apart the drivers door switch assembly to make sure the little metal rocker connectors were making good contact. I cleaned them all up (even bent them down a little) to make sure they made good contact to no avail. I'm not sure what is going on with that.

The fact that the door lock / unlock "post" does not go up or down unless it is manually turned using the key makes me think something with the "linkage" is messed up. I read on here about some yellow plastic thing that breaks so it may be that.

So in summary I really have two problems, the first being the drivers door linkage appears to be messed up when trying to use the power lock/unlock (works fine manually) and the drivers door unlock switch isn't working (but lock is).

Oh and one last thing I should mention, I have separate keys for the doors versus the ignition. My brother said he had to put a new ignition in it because it got messed up. Is it possible that these symptons are related to the ignition (drivers door lock switch not working because it thinks keys are in?). If I leave the keys in the ignition, it does make the chime noise so I think everything is hooked up. It may have nothing to do with it but I thought I'd mention it.

So where do I start? Anyone know whats going on? Thanks!

 

[Newbie-But-Learnin]

I'm not really sure, but if I were to guess, it would be something with the motor in the door lock actuator. If I'm thinking correctly, the motor is works in forward for lock and reverse polarity for unlock (could be the other way around but I assume you get the point) so potentially the one of the connections for reversing the polarity is bad?

Like I said, just an idea. I'm sure someone on here will have better or more specific information.

 

[thegipper]

Yeah I'm assuming something is wrong with the actuator or linkage, that's why the drivers door isn't responding to to lock or unlock.

As for why the drivers door unlock button doesn't work (make no noise, nothing) it really seems like it has to be the switch itself. I'm sure there is more than just the contacts and that portion of the "board" may be bad for that switch?

Anyone else?

 

[Newbie-But-Learnin]

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/pdlcsy/insp.pdf

Did you test the switch for continuity? Lock between 4 and 6, unlock between 4 and 12

 

[thegipper]

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/pdlcsy/insp.pdf

Did you test the switch for continuity? Lock between 4 and 6, unlock between 4 and 12

I have not but now that I have the diagram, I definitely will!

Again, I'm leaning toward the switch itself being faulty, that seems to be the only logical explanation. What sucks is you cannot replace just that one individual switch you have to replace the entire thing. They are like $90 for a replacement Dorman one on Rock auto.

I may see if I can find one in a junk yard by me if it is indeed the switch. I might see if I can pull an actuator/linkage too for the drivers door while I'm there.

 

[Newbie-But-Learnin]

I think you're right. Good luck with hunting the parts down!

 

[thegipper]

Ok so I tested the continuity of the drivers door lock/unlock switch. The lock has continuity when pressed (I figured that because it works). When I test for continuity for unlock, nothing. So this confirms I have a faulty switch. Unfortunately it means I have to either buy a whole new assembly, or find a good donor from a yard. Unless there is some known fix for a faulty switch?

I tore the door panel apart to check on the door lock actuator. For starters I'm not sure where it is. I'm assuming it's the thing that all these bars connect to behind the rail for the window.

Right below this

I'm also assuming this is the power wires for the actuator. I tried giving it power (red to red, black to black and switching it) but nothing happened. Now the diagram you gave me showed only two pins and this plug has three (red/black/green)

My questions at this point are, do I have a bad actuator or did I not test it properly?
If it is bad, how on earth do I get it out and where can I get one?

I'm assuming these nuts need to be undone but how do you disconnect all the linkage?

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[tbryanh]

I'm new to 4runners, and I have a 3rd gen 1997. the driver's door lock can only be locked and unlocked by hand or with a key, The switches on the doors lock and unlock all the other door locks. Is this the way is should work?

 

[thegipper]

I'm new to 4runners, and I have a 3rd gen 1997. the driver's door lock can only be locked and unlocked by hand or with a key, The switches on the doors lock and unlock all the other door locks. Is this the way is should work?

If I'm reading your post correct than no, yours has a similar problem as mine. It sounds like your door lock actuator has also failed in the driver doors. If you hit lock or unlock (either drivers side switch or passenger) it should lock or unlock the drivers door.

I have this exact same problem but I also have a faulty unlock switch on the drivers side.

I'm going to a junk yard after work to get a new master switch. I'm going to see if the door actuator is in there too and grab that too.

 

[Newbie-But-Learnin]

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/be/pdlcsy/loca.pdf

https://youtu.be/RpesvWO_-98

That will help you with location. Once you undo the bolts, you should be able to pull the actuator out. It's kinda hidden in the lowerish left side of the door. You should be able to remove the linkage after loosening it from the door.

As for testing it... I think you might have the key lock terminals connector from the actual key switch. From what I remember and I helped my friend with this a long time ago on a Rav4, but I think they're pretty similar actuators, it should have 4 terminals. Positive to 3, negative to 2 for unlock, reverse polarity for lock.

 

[thegipper]

Ok I got an update.

I went to a junkyard and grabbed a replacement master switch from another 97 SR5. Guess what, the unlock button doesn't work!

So unless I magically found another master switch with the exact same problem, something else is going on. Unfortunately I didn't have my volt meter to test the switch from the yard.

I think I need to jump the terminals on the harness as if I hit the unlock button. If nothing happens, then something else is wrong. If it does work, then I someone managed to find another switch with the same problem.

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[thegipper]

Got both problems fixed! After doing some more testing, I realized I had a broken wire (continuity test) for one of the power wires on the door lock actuator and one of the wires for the door lock switch.

My guess is the break occurred somewhere near the rubber boot. It is too hard to find where the actually break is so I just ran new wire for both. Hooked it all back up and everything works perfect. And I didn't even have to take the lock actuator out.

Oh, the diagram you shared does not reflect a 97. The polarity check on the door lock and unlock is pins 2 and 3, and 2 and 4. I found that out when I tracked the terminals back on the switch board and realized it did not match the pdf you shared. I believe that is for a 2002 (based on the date on the bottom corner) which has a slightly different switch then a 97.

Hope this helps someone else!

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[tbryanh]

If I'm reading your post correct than no, yours has a similar problem as mine. It sounds like your door lock actuator has also failed in the driver doors. If you hit lock or unlock (either drivers side switch or passenger) it should lock or unlock the drivers door.

I have this exact same problem but I also have a faulty unlock switch on the drivers side.

I'm going to a junk yard after work to get a new master switch. I'm going to see if the door actuator is in there too and grab that too.

I also noticed that if the driver door is unlocked and the door is opened and closed, all the other door locks unlock when the door is closed. Weird.

 

[Monterojim]

Help

Hey gipper, do you still have a copy of the pdf and instructions for which wire you changed?
The link is no longer valid? I have the circuit board out but my multimeter and tools are at work.

Got both problems fixed! After doing some more testing, I realized I had a broken wire (continuity test) for one of the power wires on the door lock actuator and one of the wires for the door lock switch.

My guess is the break occurred somewhere near the rubber boot. It is too hard to find where the actually break is so I just ran new wire for both. Hooked it all back up and everything works perfect. And I didn't even have to take the lock actuator out.

Oh, the diagram you shared does not reflect a 97. The polarity check on the door lock and unlock is pins 2 and 3, and 2 and 4. I found that out when I tracked the terminals back on the switch board and realized it did not match the pdf you shared. I believe that is for a 2002 (based on the date on the bottom corner) which has a slightly different switch then a 97.

Hope this helps someone else!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

Hey gipper, do you still have a copy of the pdf and instructions for which wire you changed?
The link is no longer valid? I have the circuit board out but my multimeter and tools are at work.

Sorry I don't. I just did some basic testing with my volt meter. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out otherwise I'm sure someone else will chime in.

 

[tystaco]

Got both problems fixed! After doing some more testing, I realized I had a broken wire (continuity test) for one of the power wires on the door lock actuator and one of the wires for the door lock switch.

My guess is the break occurred somewhere near the rubber boot. It is too hard to find where the actually break is so I just ran new wire for both. Hooked it all back up and everything works perfect. And I didn't even have to take the lock actuator out.

Oh, the diagram you shared does not reflect a 97. The polarity check on the door lock and unlock is pins 2 and 3, and 2 and 4. I found that out when I tracked the terminals back on the switch board and realized it did not match the pdf you shared. I believe that is for a 2002 (based on the date on the bottom corner) which has a slightly different switch then a 97.

Hope this helps someone else!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Well, looks like I'll be chasing a wire. I can not lock my 2000 with the remote, or any door switch, driver or passenger. Unlock works just fine on all 3, lock is intermittent but most not working. Glad you solved this problem and posted about it.

 

[brillo_76]

Check the wire boot in your doors. The wires will break off or sometimes short. The drivers door and the tailgate hatch boots are mostly were you find wire issues.

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[mramend]

1998 - Where to find that D20 rotary switch?

Hi- new member so I can’t post yet. I got a 1998 that has a similar problem as the original post. Pulling stuff apart on the door I noticed the ( attached photo) rotary switch floating free around the LH door lock. It looks like some plastic is broken on it and the slot looks like it would sit on the slot at the end of the lock cylinder. Following the wires of the D20 connector- this appears to be the Door Key Lock and Unlock SW according to the total shop manual. I manually rotated the inner tab and voila the motor activated and locked the door. Otherwise only the key outside can mechanically lock the door. Does anyone know where (another part name maybe?) to find this switch other than a junkyard for a 1998? I can’t find any photos or videos that show this switch.. kind of at a loss for googling..