1985taylor1925
Senior Member
How many miles on the spare driveshaft you have and how much do you want for it?
Driveshaft options and questions
- Thread starter 1985taylor1925
- Start date
How many miles on the spare driveshaft you have and how much do you want for it?
JayRolla
New member
Because you asked to chime in its okay to go highway speeds in 4x4. Just have to stay under 55mph when engaging. Should say this also on your sun visor.
Also someone stated putting it on a dyno. No reason to do that. They way I found where my vibration was coming from was I put her on 4 jack stands. Turned her over, engaged 4x4 and let someone put it in drive. You can watch all 4 tires move and listen to the driveshaft. Of coarse use caution when attempting this.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Were you actually able to pinpoint a problem doing that?
JayRolla
New member
Yes. I pin pointed the sound to the double cardon joint. I also could see some shiny chrome on the ball in the joint which is another sign of failure.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
I pulled the driveshaft and drove it down the highway at 70-75, but still had vibrations. But I think they were coming from the front. So its hard to tell.
But I looked at the three u joints after I pulled the propeller, and turns out there is a tiny bit of play in the rear u joint. I installed it literally less than 2k miles ago, and its already failing! Thats why you always go with toyota oem parts. I didnt have any extra money at the time and thought I could get away with a $15 joint from autozone. Figured it should easily last me a few years, right? And then I could get a toyota u joint down the road. Nope. Failing in less than 2k miles. absolutely pathetic.
I dont know if the tiny amount of play is enough to cause the vibrations, but Im guessing it is being such a close tolerance part. Just ordered an OEM u joint from camelback. So we'll see what happens when I replace it
But I looked at the three u joints after I pulled the propeller, and turns out there is a tiny bit of play in the rear u joint. I installed it literally less than 2k miles ago, and its already failing! Thats why you always go with toyota oem parts. I didnt have any extra money at the time and thought I could get away with a $15 joint from autozone. Figured it should easily last me a few years, right? And then I could get a toyota u joint down the road. Nope. Failing in less than 2k miles. absolutely pathetic.
I dont know if the tiny amount of play is enough to cause the vibrations, but Im guessing it is being such a close tolerance part. Just ordered an OEM u joint from camelback. So we'll see what happens when I replace it
i am dealing with double cardan joint failure as well. Back in August took the 4runner to Colorado for an inpromtu vacation. I had a vibration at around 70-80 mph and just thought that it was from slight cupping on my tires. Got near Goodland Kansas and pulled of to get gas and heard a clunking sound at lower speeds. By the time I got to Colorado the clunk was getting louder and sounded like someone was smacking the undercarriage with a hammer while accelerating from a stop. Took it to a national chain to get it looked at the next morning and they confirmed that the double cardan u joints were failing. They said that they could replace the u joints. Got it back the next day and the vibration was gone. The driveshaft did have a squeak after getting up into the mountains finally. A few weeks ago the clunking came back and took it back to the local location to have it looked at. They told me that the double cardan joint was seriously screwed up and loose again. The good news is that I got my money back and ordered a Tom Woods driveshaft yesterday. Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share my situation.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Did you order the double cardan or the the two piece driveshaft? They claim that you can use the two piece driveshaft to replace the double caardan if you don't need the angles for a lift
I did a stock configuration with the double cardan. The nice thing is that you don't need the special u joints that Toyota doesn't have replacements for. I believe it takes standard 1310 series u joints on the replacement shaft that I ordered.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
How much did that put you back?
shiftmx
Member
Let me help you out a bit as I went through the same drama...
Chances are, even after you replace the U-joints with new ones, there will still be some slight vibration in the driveline. A problem with the 3rd gen 2wd shafts (and possibly 4wd) are the retaining C clips for the joints are on the inside of the yolk and not the outside. This causes an issue because unless the clips are the perfect thickness, the joint caps will always allow a little play between them. I went through a few new sets of U-joints to figure this out. Of all the ones I tried, Neapco was the only one to include 2 sets of clips and I used the thicker ones. I still have a slight vibe at 60 mph but it is livable until I can get a rebuilt driveshaft that has the yolks that use the retaining C clips on the outside. Other options would be to find a used drive shaft and hope the joints have plenty of life left or pony up for a new shaft if you have alot of life left in the 4runner. They can be had for around $480 from places like Toyota of Dallas last I checked. If you have ever been to the dealership for u-joint issues and they quote you to replace the driveshaft, this is why.
frodiesel
New member
Yes, this is correct. I havnt been able to get my hands on a new oem bushing yet. I installed a used part at its definitely better, no binding. Thanks junkyard lol. I will report back, i likely need a new rack, but will try the bushing first. Just follow the writeup on the part, it takes a try or three to get the tension just right. I used a large set of channel locks to remove the lockring and then a large adjustable wrench to remove the cap.
Torque marks
I have new oem lbj, ubj, lca, wb, inte, otre. Also welded the steering shaft twice, new driveshaft, new oem rear ujoint. Energy suspension/prothane sway bars, ES steering rack bushings. I want this damn thing to stop the shakes!
I will not tolerate even the slightest wiggle!
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1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Rear output shaft bearing?
So I replaced the rear u joint. It decreased the vibrations, but certainly didn't eliminate them.
Before I put the driveshaft back on I started messing with the flange coming out of the tranny to see if it had any play, and sure enough it does. That would certainly be a cause for vibrations. So my question is can the rear output shaft bearing be replaced? I've seen the front one changed from the transfer case, but not the rear. I did a quick search and didn't find much. I don't know if this is common, but mine certainly has slop in the bearing
So I replaced the rear u joint. It decreased the vibrations, but certainly didn't eliminate them.
Before I put the driveshaft back on I started messing with the flange coming out of the tranny to see if it had any play, and sure enough it does. That would certainly be a cause for vibrations. So my question is can the rear output shaft bearing be replaced? I've seen the front one changed from the transfer case, but not the rear. I did a quick search and didn't find much. I don't know if this is common, but mine certainly has slop in the bearing
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Yeah I'm planning to replace it as well. The top of the bushing is starting to crack. I can lift the transmission a bit by pushing from underneath the truck. But that might be normal. Either way at 243k I need to replace it. But I know the rear output shaft bearing is bad from the play. So that's my primary concern
Scramble
New member
Tom Woods Custom DS all the way. I paid around $416 for a 3" dia. shaft, OEM is only 2.5" & I upgraded the u-joints & Dbl Crdn to 1310 Spicers so it can be rebuilt at any local DS place now. Their u-joints are guaranteed for life too. Check out his website. Bullet Proof!
Scramble
New member
Here you go...
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