Driving Cycle Hell :ybrick:

[Sup41]

Hi folks,

I am stuck in driving cycle hell, and I'm hoping you can help. First off, I made the stupid decision of buying a 99 3rd gen 4runner w/ 180k miles without getting it checked out by a mechanic. 4runners are bulletproof, I thought. What could go wrong? A lot, apparently, if the owner didn't take care of it. Aside from the fact that there was about $2000 worth of repairs, the pos also had someone clear the engine codes before he sold it.

One of the codes he wanted to clear was some kind of env code, which means it wouldn't pass smog. I paid to have the charcoal canister (?) replaced, but now that the codes have been reset, and therefore I couldn't pass smog without completing a drive cycle. I found the instructions to complete a "driving cycle" with a 4runner, and holy shit, if you don't live in rural America, I don't know how you could possibly complete it. I have attached the instructions to give you all a sense for what's required, but here's my question: Is there anyway to get the codes to reset without a proper drive cycle? Can a Toyota dealership perform some kind of a "manual" drive cycle override?

To make matters worse, I am moving in 5 days and would rather not drive the car for 5 hours illegally because I couldn't have it registered because it wouldn't pass smog.

Thanks in advanced for any help.

Toyota 4Runner Drive Cycle to Set Emission Monitors

 

[4Reak Show]

First, DMV offers one day moving permits and also registration extensions to my knowledge. For this reason specifically I think. Research that and buy some time for after your move.

Secondly, depending on year, yeah a scanner can command an EVAP “in bay service test”. Some criteria needs to be present but I’ve seen it done. Again, depending on year.

Thirdly, to pass smog I’m fairly certain you need all but 2 monitors to run and pass for a 2000 and older. So, EVAP and cat monitor are almost always the ones to not be completed and still pass smog. Unless new vehicle ownership rules are different.

Lastly, I’ve had good luck on almost every make and model doing the following.

1) have a half tank of gas
2) overnight cold soak, 8 hours of sitting/not running
3) start and let idle for 10 minutes with A/C off
4) continue to idle 5 more minutes with A/C on
5) drive to the highway, no harsh accelerations or decelerations.
6) bring it up highway speed, keep it between 50-60, preferably 55 for a couple minutes. 3 miles usually does it.
7) take an exit and do not touch the brakes. Let it coast down to slower speeds.
8) repeat 5-7 as needed until monitors clear or a code sets.

EVAP almost always requires a cold start. Meaning coolant temp and intake air temp need to be within 10 degrees of each other during start up or the test/monitor won’t run and a code won’t set more than likely.

Hope that helps.

 

[T4topher]

I think it’s the responsibility of the owner of the vehicle to get it to pass smog before it’s sold in CA, could be wrong though. I don’t think there is a way to reset the codes without doing the drive cycle. It was really hard for me to complete my drive cycle when I needed to get mine smogged (I unplug the battery a lot to work on it). My recommendation is to drive it somewhere that requires about 40-50mph for a long distance, like 30 minutes or so of driving like that. Preferably has stop lights too so you accelerate/decelerate a few times. Not sure where in CA you are but what did it for me was driving down 92 to half moon bay then down hwy 1 to SF. I literally had driven 4+ hours on the freeway (280) before that and it wasn’t ready until I did the loop through half moon bay.

 

[spartacus]

Hi folks,

I am stuck in driving cycle hell, and I'm hoping you can help. First off, I made the stupid decision of buying a 99 3rd gen 4runner w/ 180k miles without getting it checked out by a mechanic. 4runners are bulletproof, I thought. What could go wrong? A lot, apparently, if the owner didn't take care of it. Aside from the fact that there was about $2000 worth of repairs, the pos also had someone clear the engine codes before he sold it.

One of the codes he wanted to clear was some kind of env code, which means it wouldn't pass smog. I paid to have the charcoal canister (?) replaced, but now that the codes have been reset, and therefore I couldn't pass smog without completing a drive cycle. I found the instructions to complete a "driving cycle" with a 4runner, and holy shit, if you don't live in rural America, I don't know how you could possibly complete it. I have attached the instructions to give you all a sense for what's required, but here's my question: Is there anyway to get the codes to reset without a proper drive cycle? Can a Toyota dealership perform some kind of a "manual" drive cycle override?

To make matters worse, I am moving in 5 days and would rather not drive the car for 5 hours illegally because I couldn't have it registered because it wouldn't pass smog.

Thanks in advanced for any help.

Toyota 4Runner Drive Cycle to Set Emission Monitors

It is really frustrating and a dealer legally can't help you but if you have an obd scan tool you can monitor readiness. Here are a few threads to get you started.
Ok that's it I give up! Impossible Toyota readiness drive pattern for evap system.

"Official" T4R Drive Cycle

Good luck.

 

[Skulking]

I think it’s the responsibility of the owner of the vehicle to get it to pass smog before it’s sold in CA, could be wrong though. I don’t think there is a way to reset the codes without doing the drive cycle. It was really hard for me to complete my drive cycle when I needed to get mine smogged (I unplug the battery a lot to work on it). My recommendation is to drive it somewhere that requires about 40-50mph for a long distance, like 30 minutes or so of driving like that. Preferably has stop lights too so you accelerate/decelerate a few times. Not sure where in CA you are but what did it for me was driving down 92 to half moon bay then down hwy 1 to SF. I literally had driven 4+ hours on the freeway (280) before that and it wasn’t ready until I did the loop through half moon bay.

In California it is the sellers responsibility to provide the smog certificate, but at this point there isn't anything that can be done about it short of involving lawyers. The DMV won't get involved.

 

[4Reak Show]

Temporary Operating Permits - California DMV

30 or 60 day one-time Temp permit for exactly your issue. Passing smog for a transfer.

 

[phattyduck]

I just passed Smog (at a very thorough shop) last week with the cat monitor test incomplete. For a '99, they still put it on the rollers and test some things manually.

Go to a smog shop and just ask them if it is ready. They'll plug in via OBD-II and let you know if the monitors are set correctly before you have to pay for a test. Generally, it should pass tailpipe, etc. with no problems.

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

You are allowed some monitors to be incomplete like mentioned above. Call a smog shop and provide your year and they will tell you how many is allowed. You don't need all of them to pass to have it smogged.

Also pays to know a "lazy" smog shop, even if it does cost a few more bucks...

 

[Soren96]

My Evap was being a stubborn bastard on my 98 VW of course just in time for smog. Passed with no problem, though.

One tip for Evap readiness which is probably the same for our runners as my vw: the Evap readiness won’t even run if you aren’t between 1/4 and 3/4 tank.


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[cchantzis]

Passed NJ Inspection with this Drive-Cycle

Passed NJ Inspection of my 4Runner 2005 V6 4.0 with 350K miles - meaning I got Catalytic Converter and O2 sensor monitor systems to turn from Inc (incomplete) to OK in just 10-12 minutes, total time. EVAP monitor refused to turned from Inc to OK within this cycle but in NJ one can pass inspection when a 2001 or newer vehicle has only one non-continuous monitoring sensor Incomplete. The EVAP is a non-continuous monitoring sensor system.

Toyota Drive Cycle

1.Gas level ¼ to ¾ full. Park on a level surface overnight. Vehicle locked and keys far from vehicle. No Cruise Control or Air Conditioning. With the outside temperature below 86F
2. Start engine, idle for at least 9 minutes.
3. Rev engine to 3,000 RPM for 30 seconds.
4.Accelerate to 40-55 mph at 25% throttle, hold speed for 5 minutes.
5. Decelerate to under 20 mph without touching the brake or shifting gear. When under 20mph use the brake pedal to come to a complete stop.
6. Allow vehicle to idle in Gear (D) for A/T and Neutral for M/T for 1 minute. Then allow vehicle to idle for 1 more minute in Park for A/T or neutral for M/T.
7. Turn off engine, wait 1 minute, then Restart vehicle.

Note:
I attempted to complete the Drive Cycle raising the car up and dry-running on stationary mode. I found out that the car REFUSES to run more than 10/15 mph. So, folks, do NOT waste your time, such an activity does NOT work!!!

Now, suggestions so you could possibly avoid going through the very difficult time I went through:
1. ALWAYS check and re-check your gas tank cap is not failing. Unfortunately, even smart Scanners can NOT differentiate among leaks in the emissions system other than the gas tank cap.
2. Make sure you connect CORRECTLY the Vent valve that goes btwn the top of the gas tank and the bottom of the Charcoal canister. I got a used Charcoal Canister that had very rusted brackets and chose to remove them prior to installing that used Charcoal Canister. BUT, I erred and installed it in REVERSE!!! That is stupid for Toyota to have designed its system in such a fashion.
3. Removal of the Vent seal connection at the Charcoal Canister is extremely difficult. It will be much easier IF you were to unmount the Charcoal Canister from its brackets and car, then disconnect the other two hoses first plus the electric plug from the Charcoal Canister, and next disconnect the very difficult Vent valve. If you damage the Vent valve port of the Charcoal Canister - something I did when I used 2 small flat head screw drivers to unhook the clips of the Vent valve, then use teflon tape to correct the created scrapes/scratches and finally used some vaseline to coat the outer surface of the taped-up damaged port prior to reconnecting it to the Vent hose and Charcoal Canister.
4. Make sure to remove any rust in the area around the Charcoal Canister or under the spare tire and then apply proper rust proofing/prevention or you will be inviting lots of horrific problems in 1/2 years. I chose to remove the totally rusted bracket mounts from the car frame and then secure the Charcoal Canister with a multi-string SS wire that I tied onto the holes of the car frame in 4 locations around the Charcoal Canister.
Good luck!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My Evap was being a stubborn bastard on my 98 VW of course just in time for smog. Passed with no problem, though.

One tip for Evap readiness which is probably the same for our runners as my vw: the Evap readiness won’t even run if you aren’t between 1/4 and 3/4 tank.


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I’ll add that there is also a outdoor temp requirement. Too cold or too hot. At least in my Saturns case.


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[19963.4lsr5]

So today is the first day I drove my toy since the rust repair requiring (rear upper shock mount) me to disconnect the battery.

This was what my drive cycle was to get the ready monsters set.

Outside temp between 50f and 90f
Fuel level at 1/2 tank
Accelerated to 65 at 3/4 throttle
Did a decell from 60mph to stop.
Drove 50mph+ for 4 miles
Idled for 5min (dropping my dogs off at the EX.
Driving from my house to my dead mother in laws to prep it for sale with the above parameters had my readiness monitors set driving home from dropping of my pups with the EX for my next work stretch.

Edit: I did all this within 4 miles of my house.


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[poisedforflight]

Just checking in from a flyover state to say how thankful I am that I don't have to deal with that nonsense.