DRiving with no cv axles.

oilpatch4runner

New member
Can I just remove my cc axles and drive. I have a bad front end noise when the front end flexes going over large numbs at moderate speed. Like pulling out of a Peking lot Ian’s into the street. The front flexes and makes a popping or clanking noise. Also sometimes when I turn quickly at slower speeds and the truck rolls causing the front to flex. New lower ball joints. Ran through some salt marsh a couple years and thinking I got salt water into the boots
Thanks.
 
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Can you jack up the front and take the wheel at 12-6 o’clock position and wiggle it ? Also try it at 9-3 o’clock position. As far as driving without a cv. I don’t think it’s possible. The gear oil will leak out everywhere.
 
Can you jack up the front and take the wheel at 12-6 o’clock position and wiggle it ? Also try it at 9-3 o’clock position. As far as driving without a cv. I don’t think it’s possible. The gear oil will leak out everywhere.
Not only that, but the front wheel bearings are pre-loaded by the the axle/axle nut. They will fail in quick order if the axle isn't in place and torqued.

Creaks/groans/pops in the front end are unlikely to be caused by the CVs... I would expect bushings, end links, shocks, loose bolts, etc.

-Charlie
 
You can if you take an old CV apart and run just the inner and outer without the axle shaft in the middle.

Not sure I have ever driven over a numb or out of Peking lot Ian's.
 
Can I just remove my cc axles and drive. I have a bad front end noise when the front end flexes going over large numbs at moderate speed. Like pulling out of a Peking lot Ian’s into the street. The front flexes and makes a popping or clanking noise. Also sometimes when I turn quickly at slower speeds and the truck rolls causing the front to flex. New lower ball joints. Ran through some salt marsh a couple years and thinking I got salt water into the boots
Thanks.

Did you change the ball joints because to see if that would fix the noises, or did the noises start when you put in the new ball joints?

Also what brand are the ball joint?

I would check your sway bar end link bushings.
 
Make sure that your LCA front and rear fasteners are torqued properly. An alignment shop only torque mine to about 80 ftlb and the front end popped and made all sorts of noises. Also, could be SB link bushings as said above.
 
Yes you can drive without them but like mentioned earlier you will need to take apart your CV. My front end died and I just did exactly that. I removed the front drive shaft and took apart the cvs and plugged the wheel sides.

I drove like this for maybe over a year or two before getting somewhere that I could buy a front diff from a junk yard. Then just purchased napa replacements.


The CV's are a real pain to separate.

I found this video to give you an idea of what you will be doing. I haven't tried this trick but I can see how it could work and make it alot easier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=53&v=P2-nJAi58v4
 
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One of the reasons I want manual hubs. You just unlock them and nothing turns whether it's the diff or cv's with the problem.

Those Peking ducks really make a lot of noise when you run them over.
 
Thanks for the responses. Sorry first post was rushed.
Im getting new tires very soon so I will check for play in the 12-6 or 9-3 directions. Last time I checked it seemed to be fine.
There is no Sway Bar currently. I replaced the steering rack bushing a few months ago and the nuts on the end broke off and I haven’t yet replaced them so I removed the whole thing.
I replaced the LBJs just b/c my dads failed on him. When I had them replaced I also had Bilsteins installed (the smaller ones 4600 maybe?).
I will check all bolts and linkages. I know the bushings in everything are worn. I’d like to replace the entire front end but I recently started having starting problems ( hard start or cranks and dies) and a very weird electrical issue. (Brake peddle causes dash lights to illuminate/transmission to unlock from overdrive, turning the driving lights on also causes the transmission to unlock in overdrive ,and I have no cruise control) has light has also been flickering for a while.
 
a very weird electrical issue. (Brake peddle causes dash lights to illuminate/transmission to unlock from overdrive, turning the driving lights on also causes the transmission to unlock in overdrive ,and I have no cruise control) has light has also been flickering for a while.
This might be caused by the gauge cluster (yes, really). More specifically, the main flex PCB on the back of the cluster.

My '99 would turn on the reverse lights dimly when the left turn signal was on and it threw some random transmission codes.

-Charlie
 

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