DRL question

[johnbyebye]

I currently have the two-pin connector next to my battery disconnected to disable the DRL functionality. I am thinking about putting in some small LED strips in place of that plastic filler right below the headlights. Can I wire them up and connect them to the DRL connector, or is it not that simple? I've got a 2000 limited.

EDIT: To clarify, I would want the two LED strips to be the DRL's.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[DK327]

I don't know if what you suggest would work but another option would be to tap the corner lights so default setting would be no lights on, then next click would be the corner lights and led's then next would be regular headlights...

 

[BrianSD_42]

Having been there done that, my advice if you are going to setup aftermarket LEDs as daytime/nighttime running lights is to avoid the factory lighting circuits entirely.

Run new wiring from you aftermarket BlueSea fuse box to the LEDs and to a new Toyota OEM switch with a completely isolated circuit. Don't tap the factory lighting, DLR or whatever. Use a manual switch. I recently re-wired all of my electronics as clean isolated circuits with a central aftermarket fuse box and it was absolutely worth it.

Years ago I installed aftermarket lighting tapped into the factory cicruits and it gave me nothing but headaches. After years of messing with my truck and installing 5+ aftermarket electrical items, trust me the peace of mind and simplicity that comes with clean isolated wiring is more than worth the hassle of manually flipping on the LED DLR switch.

In my case I already have manual headlights so instead of one knob to turn, now I turn one knob and flip one switch.

 

[johnbyebye]

I don't know if what you suggest would work but another option would be to tap the corner lights so default setting would be no lights on, then next click would be the corner lights and led's then next would be regular headlights...

Having been there done that, my advice if you are going to setup aftermarket LEDs as daytime/nighttime running lights is to avoid the factory lighting circuits entirely.

Run new wiring from you aftermarket BlueSea fuse box to the LEDs and to a new Toyota OEM switch with a completely isolated circuit. Don't tap the factory lighting, DLR or whatever. Use a manual switch. I recently re-wired all of my electronics as clean isolated circuits with a central aftermarket fuse box and it was absolutely worth it.

Years ago I installed aftermarket lighting tapped into the factory cicruits and it gave me nothing but headaches. After years of messing with my truck and installing 5+ aftermarket electrical items, trust me the peace of mind and simplicity that comes with clean isolated wiring is more than worth the hassle of manually flipping on the LED DLR switch.

In my case I already have manual headlights so instead of one knob to turn, now I turn one knob and flip one switch.

Thanks guys. I like both of these options as well, but before those I would really like to try and tap into the automatic functionality. I think I might order a cheap strip of LED's to see what I can get to work. According to the manual, the DRL system has a 7.5A fuse, so the two-pin connector may actually provide power. I'll have to verify this with a multimeter later, unless someone knows this already. If it does, then I *think* my plan will work. I don't know enough about this though, so I won't find out for sure until I dive in.

 

[TheDurk]

I currently have the two-pin connector next to my battery disconnected to disable the DRL functionality. I am thinking about putting in some small LED strips in place of that plastic filler right below the headlights. Can I wire them up and connect them to the DRL connector, or is it not that simple? I've got a 2000 limited.

EDIT: To clarify, I would want the two LED strips to be the DRL's.

Thanks,

Scott

It's far from that simple. You would have to re-enable the function, and then do some major rewiring to switch that function from the heads to the strips.

Listen to [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] above.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks guys. I like both of these options as well, but before those I would really like to try and tap into the automatic functionality. I think I might order a cheap strip of LED's to see what I can get to work. According to the manual, the DRL system has a 7.5A fuse, so the two-pin connector may actually provide power. I'll have to verify this with a multimeter later, unless someone knows this already. If it does, then I *think* my plan will work. I don't know enough about this though, so I won't find out for sure until I dive in.

Actually, that fuse is just for the relay that switches between the DRLs and the full heads. Take out that fuse, and you will be stuck in DRL mode (if they have not been disabled. Then I'm not sure. Might have no lights at all.)

 

[johnbyebye]

Actually, that fuse is just for the relay that switches between the DRLs and the full heads. Take out that fuse, and you will be stuck in DRL mode (if they have not been disabled. Then I'm not sure. Might have no lights at all.)

Ah I gotcha. Yeah, more trouble than it's worth. That's what I get for thinking it would be easy. XD

Thanks.