Drop-in headlight upgrade?

How is the quality on that harness in your opinion? I found a way pricier version so I am just curious how its held up for you.

H-4 Headlight Relay Conversion Harness | Painless Performance

Key issue you want to look at is the gauge of the wire used. The one you link to on Amazon uses 14 and 16 gauge wire. You aren't really doing any better than with the stock using that light a gauge.

What Painless Performance is using I can't tell--They don't say what gauge it is they're using.

The power drop using the light gauge stuff is big enough that if you're going to rewire the truck's lights, then you want to use the heaviest stuff you can get.

Hell, I tried to get Susquehanna to do me a harness in 10 gauge, but they talked me out of it because the 12 gauge stuff carries more juice than you need for the bulbs.
 
Perfectly.

The only issue I have with the setup I have going, which is on a '99 limited, is that there is a behavioral glitch in the foglight circuit that allows the driving lights to stay on if I leave that switch on and stop the truck. I think it's because that relay gets powered up, and stays on. If the switch is off, and the fogs are off, no issues.

The way I had Susquehanna set it up was with a relay-driven circuit for the headlights, low and high beam, a relay-driven circuit for the stock fog lights, and a separate relay-driven circuit for the driving lights that are set up to go "off" when the low beams are on, which allows me to leave the driving lights set "on" and have them supplement the high beams. Everything plugs into the stock connectors for control, and the only thing I had to fuss with was the wiring for the fog lights (I wanted 12ga wire all the way around). Everything else was pretty much plug-and-play.

If you've got zero electrical and mechanical skills, this might not be a good path for you. If you're reasonably 'ept with tools, it's a piece of cake.


I built one for my old CJ7 and it was night and day difference. Thinking on doing the same for the Toy. However, I really can’t complain about its headlights and driving lights.


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I built one for my old CJ7 and it was night and day difference. Thinking on doing the same for the Toy. However, I really can’t complain about its headlights and driving lights.


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I don't know what it is about the older Toyotas, but I can't think of one that I've seen with a stock headlight setup that was what I'd describe as "safe" for driving around here in the mountains. I've heard suggestions that it has a lot to do with corrosion in the wiring/connectors, coupled with the whole "Let's do 14 and 16 gauge wiring and run it through the dash switches...".

Whatever the root cause is, it's solved by getting the stock bulbs as much power as they actually need. I think people would be shocked if they actually went out to their trucks and checked the stock harness for how much voltage and ampherage it was delivering to the connectors. Another issue is the connector itself--The ones that Susquehanna sets you up with on the 4Runner are ceramic, so heat at the bulb isn't going to cause issues with the connector deforming on you.

The whole issue with piss-poor headlight performance in these trucks boils down to three things: Wiring, wiring, and wiring. At least, in my opinion.

I think I'm getting better performance out of my stock headlights and bulbs now than the HID projector setup the P.O. put in--And, I don't need to worry about the damn things falling apart every six months or so, necessitating another headlight bakeoff to fix. For off-road use, those damn projectors are a freaking nightmare--The ones I had were constantly vibrating apart.
 
I don't know what it is about the older Toyotas, but I can't think of one that I've seen with a stock headlight setup that was what I'd describe as "safe" for driving around here in the mountains. I've heard suggestions that it has a lot to do with corrosion in the wiring/connectors, coupled with the whole "Let's do 14 and 16 gauge wiring and run it through the dash switches...".

Whatever the root cause is, it's solved by getting the stock bulbs as much power as they actually need. I think people would be shocked if they actually went out to their trucks and checked the stock harness for how much voltage and ampherage it was delivering to the connectors. Another issue is the connector itself--The ones that Susquehanna sets you up with on the 4Runner are ceramic, so heat at the bulb isn't going to cause issues with the connector deforming on you.

The whole issue with piss-poor headlight performance in these trucks boils down to three things: Wiring, wiring, and wiring. At least, in my opinion.

I think I'm getting better performance out of my stock headlights and bulbs now than the HID projector setup the P.O. put in--And, I don't need to worry about the damn things falling apart every six months or so, necessitating another headlight bakeoff to fix. For off-road use, those damn projectors are a freaking nightmare--The ones I had were constantly vibrating apart.

I reached out to Susquehanna this morning to see if they sell a product similar to that harness adapter from Amazon. I have a feeling it's the HL28200 but waiting on them to confirm. I'll likely buy it instead of the Amazon one as it seems more robust.

https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-s...ness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html

My other car is a '91 Corolla with equally terrible headlights so I'm thinking about a similar upgrade for that car too.
 
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This one right? 4runner3

Looks similar to the Susquehanna one but they don't indicate what brand of relays they're using.


When I built my own for the CJ7 it cost me 120 in wire and relays from napa. I wasn’t going to use 3 dollar relays. Plus I bought prewired relay bases. The relays and prewired bases were not cheep.


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I jumped to the end here but ill be snagging a pair off BXBuilt for my 4th gen.

5% discount code for us - t4rorg

they say it will work with black friday deals as well
 
How is the quality on that harness in your opinion? I found a way pricier version so I am just curious how its held up for you.

H-4 Headlight Relay Conversion Harness | Painless Performance

Works great, on my second winter with it now. Doesn't get hot at all. Before I was running 60W/55W bulbs on stock wiring that's 18AWG which technically speaking, is exceeding the capacity of the wire since it's around 12 ft long. This harness is 14AWG and the longest power wire is about 6 ft long. That means I can run roughly 15 amps safely which is perfect, since the 100/80W bulbs will pull around 14.8ish amps on high beams and 11.8 amps on low beams at 13.8V. There's some safety room built in there as well as it's not going to start melting at 16 amps. The harness plugs are ceramic as well, you CANNOT use plastic connectors for the 100/80W bulbs so stay away from any of them that do have it, I noticed the one you linked is plastic. They will start to deform after repeated use. Here's the diagram of the harness:

71za1HBBiWL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Think of it this way: I can buy 6 of these harnesses before spending $150 on an over-engineered wire harness. There's some people that are ok spending $500+ on brighter headlights and supporting parts. I'm not one of those, this is a 22 year old SUV we are talking about.
 
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Works great, on my second winter with it now. Doesn't get hot at all. Before I was running 60W/55W bulbs on stock wiring that's 18AWG which technically speaking, is exceeding the capacity of the wire since it's around 12 ft long. This harness is 14AWG and the longest power wire is about 6 ft long. That means I can run roughly 15 amps safely which is perfect, since the 100/80W bulbs will pull around 14.8ish amps on high beams and 11.8 amps on low beams at 13.8V. There's some safety room built in there as well as it's not going to start melting at 16 amps. The harness plugs are ceramic as well, you CANNOT use plastic connectors for the 100/80W bulbs so stay away from any of them that do have it, I noticed the one you linked is plastic. They will start to deform after repeated use. Here's the diagram of the harness:

71za1HBBiWL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Think of it this way: I can buy 6 of these harnesses before spending $150 on an over-engineered wire harness. There's some people that are ok spending $500+ on brighter headlights and supporting parts. I'm not one of those, this is a 22 year old SUV we are talking about.


I just pulled the trigger to your Amazon link.


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:snacker: This is good info as I'm trying to find a solution to dim headlights myself. I don't want to go down the hid road because somehow I don't really like the set up. And of course getting flagged because of running hid's at my yearly state inspection where I am.
I tried led's and yanked them as the high beam was a joke, low beam was good and the color 4300K was great but, it didn't throw the light far ahead for me.
I like the upgraded wiring harness and running higher wattage bulbs as mention above.
 
Think of it this way: I can buy 6 of these harnesses before spending $150 on an over-engineered wire harness. There's some people that are ok spending $500+ on brighter headlights and supporting parts. I'm not one of those, this is a 22 year old SUV we are talking about.

I have to disagree with you. If the most you're doing with your truck is driving it down to the local mall, you are probably right. If, on the other hand, you're going to be actually driving the truck at night, in inclement weather, outside the built-up areas of Metroville, USA...? You may want to re-think that line of thought. Lights are life-safety items on dark secondary highways up in the mountains, and if you cheap out on them and then still persist in driving highway speeds, eventually you're going to run into something. Like a deer, elk, moose, rock, or dumbass pedestrian who is inexplicably walking in the middle of the road dressed in mostly stone-colored clothing.

I've had to spend quite a bit of time on winter-dark roads around here, and I'm going to keep putting money into upgrading my vehicle lighting on everything I have to drive under these conditions. Anything else is just asking for fate to catch up with you, either because you get rear-ended by some other idiot who actually thinks that the posted speed limit is the mandatory minimum, even though they're way over-driving their headlights to do so, or because you yourself are in a hurry and going faster than you really should.

Frankly, I want a minimum of about 3/4 mile visibility ahead of me, and if I don't have that, I've learned I need better lights.

Never ceases to amaze me how people project the conditions they've experienced on to others. California has a lot more light-hours per day in the winter than we do up here. We haven't even hit winter solstice yet, and daylight hours are down to about 8 hours of light. You go to work in the dark, you come home in the dark, and if you're driving anywhere after work to run errands or whatever, it's dark. Under those conditions, if you don't treat your lights with the same mentality that you do your seat belts and tires, you're nuts.
 
I have to disagree with you. If the most you're doing with your truck is driving it down to the local mall, you are probably right. If, on the other hand, you're going to be actually driving the truck at night, in inclement weather, outside the built-up areas of Metroville, USA...? You may want to re-think that line of thought. Lights are life-safety items on dark secondary highways up in the mountains, and if you cheap out on them and then still persist in driving highway speeds, eventually you're going to run into something. Like a deer, elk, moose, rock, or dumbass pedestrian who is inexplicably walking in the middle of the road dressed in mostly stone-colored clothing.



I've had to spend quite a bit of time on winter-dark roads around here, and I'm going to keep putting money into upgrading my vehicle lighting on everything I have to drive under these conditions. Anything else is just asking for fate to catch up with you, either because you get rear-ended by some other idiot who actually thinks that the posted speed limit is the mandatory minimum, even though they're way over-driving their headlights to do so, or because you yourself are in a hurry and going faster than you really should.



Frankly, I want a minimum of about 3/4 mile visibility ahead of me, and if I don't have that, I've learned I need better lights.



Never ceases to amaze me how people project the conditions they've experienced on to others. California has a lot more light-hours per day in the winter than we do up here. We haven't even hit winter solstice yet, and daylight hours are down to about 8 hours of light. You go to work in the dark, you come home in the dark, and if you're driving anywhere after work to run errands or whatever, it's dark. Under those conditions, if you don't treat your lights with the same mentality that you do your seat belts and tires, you're nuts.
I think both arguments are valid and it comes down to personal preference. For me, based on 19963.4lsr5's experience with building a harness from scratch and it costing $120 in parts, I question the quality of the components used in the amazon harness. Although I suppose you have to factor in China prices vs US prices for parts. It's just so hard to judge quality on those sorts of things. On my Corolla I replaced my turn signal relay with a cheaper version and the sound and click rate isn't the same as it was which drives me up a a wall. And I'm the type of person that if a $20 part or tool fails on me, I'm not going to buy another $20, I'm going to buy the $120 next time.

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I think both arguments are valid and it comes down to personal preference. For me, based on 19963.4lsr5's experience with building a harness from scratch and it costing $120 in parts, I question the quality of the components used in the amazon harness. Although I suppose you have to factor in China prices vs US prices for parts. It's just so hard to judge quality on those sorts of things. On my Corolla I replaced my turn signal relay with a cheaper version and the sound and click rate isn't the same as it was which drives me up a a wall. And I'm the type of person that if a $20 part or tool fails on me, I'm not going to buy another $20, I'm going to buy the $120 next time.

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I'm right there with you, on that. Life is too short for mechanical annoyances, and if it doesn't work right in the first place...? Fix it until it does.

Which is why I drive Toyotas--They (generally...) did it right in the first damn place. Other makes? Not so much... Ask me why I swore off Fords, sometime when you've got several hours to spare listening to my reasons.
 
Me too, going to see if it makes a difference with the Oedro H4 led bulbs I'm currently using, give the 100/80 bulbs a shot if needed.


Fit the price and ceramic bulb connectors if I want to upgrade the relays to a better one or switch to 12awg I can do it later. As long as the high beam indicator and it doesn’t mess up my factory fogs I’ll be happy.

I want to check voltage at the bulb yet with the lights on.


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Well the TYCs showed up today....annnnd they're going right back. The driver's side bulb shield is definitely not right. Looks like TYC assumed they were symmetrical but they're not. Passenger side is basically straight and the driver's is dipped down and to the side. I could probably bend it into the right orientation but I don't really want to have to modify something brand new to get it to work.

x2ac1SX.jpg

BpQThR9.jpg
 
Now the question is do I try Depos or just get OEMs. I'm guessing the Depos are coming out of the same Chinese factory as the TYCs.

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