Dropping the gas tank

Ill4Runner

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I need some welding done on the inside of my frame and the gas tank is going to have to be removed. Is it an easy job? I’m buying new bolts just in case.
 
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I need some welding done on the inside of my frame and the gas tank is going to have to be removed. Is it an easy job? I’m buying new bolts just in case.
Not if it's rusty. Super soak a your bolts for a few days before removing.
A few may snap off. It happens I taken down 3 tanks. The skid bolts too. 1 bolt in front middle and the strap holds the tank itself.

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Like brillo said if your rusty you're probably going to have issues. There's 3 bolts in the back that hold the gas tank skid and then 2 bolts up front on the skid. Then one bolt up front on the actual tank and one on the back strap for the tank. You may want to check the condition of the strap if your truck is rusty.

Also on the 01-02 there is more EVAP stuff on top of the tank. The hoses are a pain to get off and the check valve is known to fail. Depending on your mileage and future plans for the truck now may be a good time to replace the fuel pump, check valve, sending unit, etc while the tank is down.

Make sure you get it as low as you can also to make it easier to handle on the way out and back in.
 
It's doable but not easy. I actually just did this yesterday on my 2002 SR5. Those hoses on top of the tank are a pain to disconnect, particularly the fuel tank vent hose (77404-35010) which has a really weird connector on either end. That may be specific to the 2002. I took a bunch of pictures I could share, and there are a couple of really good videos you could check out. The bolts were the least of the problem, except for the fact that I lost one of the 14mm ones holding the tank on. Arg. Where do you get your bolts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrzX_K-jcuo Timmy the Toolman

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-HPp2-_PFM Fix It Angel
 
And if you're in the salt belt (and Illinois certainly is) you might plan on replacing the tank strap while you're at it. Often times it's already broken and you don't notice it because the tank just settles down onto the tank skid.
 
Where do you get your bolts?l
Every time we go to a PnP junkyard I'm tossing random bolts, nuts, screws, washers into my tool bag, and then put them in an old metal cake pan out in the garage. Whenever I need to replace something (broken,/lost/messed up/whatever), I drag that out and poke through it for a minute or two.
 
Excellent information from the forum members.. Yes as I snapped that breather off on my 2001 sport not realizing it was that much different then the early years. The bolts that snapped on me were the bolt in the fame for the skid plate. The tank strap in the wheel well and the skid bolt rear in the opposite of the wheel well.

If you don't have any gas leaking or fumes. I would try to heat those bolts up or use and induction heater on them a few times and soak them down with the penatrating oil between heat and cooling cycles. As thst will make your job easier if all the bolts will come out. If any of them are iffy with the heads and threads from rust. Throw them away ad buy new ones as they are available from Toyota.

After you do it once and antiseize all the bolts the tanks come right out.. :)

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At the very least remove the sending unit and vent and regasket them and clean any rust under the rubber gasket.
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Quite a few with EVAP codes had this as their problem.

That one big hose on top ls a bugger to remove like mentioned.


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Every time we go to a PnP junkyard I'm tossing random bolts, nuts, screws, washers into my tool bag, and then put them in an old metal cake pan out in the garage. Whenever I need to replace something (broken,/lost/messed up/whatever), I drag that out and poke through it for a minute or two.

lol this is exactly what my technicians do at our shop. They have solo cups, coffee cans, etc just filled with nuts/bolts/screws for when they need to find a spare one to finish up a job :P

I do the same with a bowl that I glued a magnet too...keeps all the metal secure in case it falls off the bench ha ha
 
at 320k miles, I've been wanting to drop my tank so I can clean it out and swap the fuel pump and other components just as preventive maintenance.....but now I'm not so sure ha ha

sounds like a pain in the rear
 
I'm at 350k miles, and the inside of my tank was super clean. If you're not having problems, I'd suggest not unless you can plan it out and have a helper who doesn't mind you swearing a lot. But it's an interesting exercise.
 
I'm at 350k miles, and the inside of my tank was super clean. If you're not having problems, I'd suggest not unless you can plan it out and have a helper who doesn't mind you swearing a lot. But it's an interesting exercise.

lol yea I might take your first bit of advice and just not screw with it :P

I do have other things to spend money on, like ctrl arms, rear suspensions and oh so much more :P
 
Going through a similar situation myself. I have a lot of pin hole leaks towards to top of the tank. Middle/Top. I'm not terribly comfortable working with exposed fumes and tools around to be honest, but It has to get done. Labor seems pricy. If I put more than a 1/3 of a tank in, the whole truck and garage wreaks of gasoline.
 
Going through a similar situation myself. I have a lot of pin hole leaks towards to top of the tank. Middle/Top. I'm not terribly comfortable working with exposed fumes and tools around to be honest, but It has to get done. Labor seems pricy. If I put more than a 1/3 of a tank in, the whole truck and garage wreaks of gasoline.

If you get it out. You can take it to places that can redo them and lifetime warranty your tank. I did that on the tank I busted the breather off the tank.
With the $ of the new tanks.. That might be the best option for a lot people now.
 
Ok. Here is the scoop.. If your in the rust belt...You are going to have issues with the bolts as it is just how it is. Non rust belt wont be an issue. By 300K. I would say your original fuel pump is going to quit at any time.

So with that being said if your taking a tank out for rust repair or maintenance. Replace the pump if it has over 200K miles on it with an denso or oem. (Also if an 01 or 02 replace your fuel sending unit as they are known to have issues )and your in there. Replace all the gaskets on the tank and screws etc with new ones if you are in there. Now if the tank looks like it going to rust in half any day. Its best to replace it or have it redone.

I did my 5 speed that has 120k on it because I live in the rust belt and wanted new screws in it just in case i have to take it apart down the road. nothing was wrong with it I did it as maintenance and even descaled and painted it while i had it out to keep the rust down. :-)


If you tank is rusty and pinholes.. So is your filler tube. So replace it while you are there. If its not leaking yet it will be in a year or so.

The 01 and 02 are a hot mess with the filling tube and charcoal canister being by the tank.

[01-02] Verify charcoal canister setup. Mark or label your hoses so you don't cross any if you mess with the rear canisters. If its bad try to find a replacement. As if it throws the CEL kiss your VSC etc good bye until it is fixed.
 
If you get it out. You can take it to places that can redo them and lifetime warranty your tank. I did that on the tank I busted the breather off the tank.
With the $ of the new tanks.. That might be the best option for a lot people now.

I have a new non-OEM tank. I just have not gotten around to installing it yet, or having someone do it for me.
 
All I need is the frame welded on next to the gas tank. I’m at 170k in the rust belt. My dealership is going to drop the tank and do the welding for me. They don’t normally weld for customers but they are making an exception. And this is fine by me as it’s my best option.
 
I have never heard of a dealership welding any frame before.. if that works for you good deal...:)

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