Drum Brake Inside parts Missing...

[TXRick]

Hey guys,

The runner has been set up awhile because I haven't been able to get it to stop.

Pedal goes all the way to the floor, sometimes seems like it grabs but suddenly let's go.

TBU, New brake booster, master cylinder, bled over and over old school and with various pumps.

I finally decided to just replace the rear drum brakes with new parts. The driver side came off easy, the passenger side took waaay more effort and when I got everything off, I found this.

As you can see (if you tile your head) the left spring is missing...actually it fell out the bottom when I took the drum off.

Would this cause my issues?

I'm gonna put it all back together in a week or so.

 

[RAD4Runner]

...The driver side came off easy, the passenger side ...

The driver side what?
The passenger side what?

As you can see (if you tile your head) the left spring is missing...actually it fell out the bottom when I took the drum off.
Would this cause my issues?

Without the return spring, the shoes would stay pushed out and keep on rubbing the drum even after your release the brake pedal. There would be nothing to retract the cylinder.

 

[TheDurk]

The driver side what?
The passenger side what?


Without the return spring, the shoes would stay pushed out and keep on rubbing the drum even after your release the brake pedal. There would be nothing to retract the cylinder.

It's not the return spring that is missing; it's the hold-down spring. This will certainly interfere with correct operation of the shoes.

 

[RAD4Runner]

It's not the return spring that is missing; it's the hold-down spring. This will certainly interfere with correct operation of the shoes.

OH that's right ( The return spring is hidden that's why I did not see it.
O.P. said part on the "left"
It helps when people post pictures clearly and properly.


YUP, hold-down spring and all parts that are suppose to be there are definitely needed for proper operation.

 

[TXRick]

The driver side what?
The passenger side what?


Without the return spring, the shoes would stay pushed out and keep on rubbing the drum even after your release the brake pedal. There would be nothing to retract the cylinder.

If you look at the picture, the only thing removed is the drum. The drivers side came off easy....the passenger side did not.

OH that's right ( The return spring is hidden that's why I did not see it.
O.P. said part on the "left"
It helps when people post pictures clearly and properly.


YUP, hold-down spring and all parts that are suppose to be there are definitely needed for proper operation.

I clearly gave readers instructions to "Tilt their heads"

My questions was...Would the missing part make the pedal go all the way to the floor? I'm pretty sure I understand that missing pieces are required for proper operation.

 

[LittleCaesar]

First replace the hold down spring. Give yourself a baseline to work with where all brake hardware is good to go.

Are you seeing any bubbles at the bleeders during bleeding? Are the cylinders in the rear wet at all?

 

[RAD4Runner]

Yes^^^, a baseline with things assembled properly would help.

...My questions was...Would the missing part make the pedal go all the way to the floor? ...

I do not think so. My brakes shoes were down to one millimeter but I was still braking without pedal all the way to the floor.

However, the missing hold-down spring, because there is nothing to keep the brake shoe in proper position could cause the "grab and suddenly let's go" issue.

You checked the front brakes?

When replacing rear brake shoes, I suggest you make sure you have replacement cylinders or rebuild supplies and tools readily-available, or you know where to get one in case old one leaks. I learned my lesson.

 

[nevada]

did the pedal go to the floor before the TBU?

those are larger calipers, yes? you will also need a larger bore MC to push them. otherwise, you will have no pedal. such as you described.

but, as said above, get the rear brakes sorted, then check again.

 

[TXRick]

Thanks for the response guys

did the pedal go to the floor before the TBU?

those are larger calipers, yes? you will also need a larger bore MC to push them. otherwise, you will have no pedal. such as you described.

but, as said above, get the rear brakes sorted, then check again.

Yeah, brakes were good before the TBU, after they have never quite been working properly. I've heard we need a bigger MC before and have heard thats not necessary. The whole reason for the TBU on my end was a plug-n-play upgrade. After the 4runner sitting more than driving for the past couple of years..PnP is not what the TBU is.

First replace the hold down spring. Give yourself a baseline to work with where all brake hardware is good to go.

Are you seeing any bubbles at the bleeders during bleeding? Are the cylinders in the rear wet at all?

Everything looks dry and the cylinders look good. Hard to tell and dont know if I should just replace them anyway...pushing 300,000 miles. Seeing bubbles and it acts like its bleeing properly but it also fels loose....dunno how else to describe it.

Front brakes work great.

I have all the other replacement parts on hand (sans cylinders)

Ill get the brakes finished up this weekend and let yall know whats up. Just really looking for encouragement that I finally found the freaking problem.