Dual Case Questions

eimkeith said:
So I'm correct in assuming that 105001-1-KIT provides everything needed to rebuild the reduction box and convert it to 23-spline 4.7, yes?

Leaving just the A) transmission adapter plate; and B) the rear case adapter plate left to purchase to put a Tacobox together?

(not counting crossmembers, shifters, driveshafts, yada yada)
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It doesn't have everything a full rebuild kit does, but it does have the gaskets and two of the bearings I was going to replace anyway (especially input bearing). It reuses quite a few of the bearings that I have never had an issue with reusing unless the t-case had been left out in the weather. If you go through the install instructions you can walk through and see all the bearings you reuse. If it has been left out exposed many times the bearings on the front of the case are pitted and then you have to look for water intrusion in to the case.
 
Sean K. said:
I have an Atlas...frankly, I'm not impressed. Also, you're not going to get dual cases with 3 speeds with an Atlas...just a lower geared single tcase....which is usable but not as versatile as having 2 cases and 3 speeds.

It would run about $3200 or so from Lowrange....

Toyota Tacoma / FJ / 4Runner Lefty Atlas Transfer Case
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How about the Atlas 4? It's got a reduction box and as far as my research goes I can't find anyone that has one installed in a 3rd gen. Expensive as hell but I'm seriously considering going with one. I like the idea of bullet proof and there cases have been in use for a very long time. I also think it'll be a really simple install given the fact it's already put together and just needs to be bolted up to the adapter plate. Thoughts?
 
theesotericone said:
How about the Atlas 4? It's got a reduction box and as far as my research goes I can't find anyone that has one installed in a 3rd gen. Expensive as hell but I'm seriously considering going with one. I like the idea of bullet proof and there cases have been in use for a very long time. I also think it'll be a really simple install given the fact it's already put together and just needs to be bolted up to the adapter plate. Thoughts?
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They are really cool. And for what you get the price isn't really all that bad ($3600ish). I thought about one before I did my dual cases but got too smokin of a deal on my setup.

I say do it!
 
rkntoy said:
They are really cool. And for what you get the price isn't really all that bad ($3600ish). I thought about one before I did my dual cases but got too smokin of a deal on my setup.

I say do it!
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Considering it has a lifetime warranty and it's comes assembled with the shift kit the extra money may indeed be worth it.

If I go with there 10.43 total reduction unit is end up with a final crawl ratio of 153:1. A dual case with 4.7/2.28 would put me just under 160:1. That's pretty close to where I wanted to be.

Looks like the case is 18.5 inches w/speedo housing and 16.5 inches without. I need to look into where the speedo gets it's info from. I'm hoping it's the abs ring. Then I can just go with the shorter unit. How long was your TG case when it was assembled?

I need to get on the phone with Atlas next week and talk to them. Someone had to have a 4 speed in a third gen. It not I just might be the guinea pig.
 
phattyduck said:
ABS equipped 3rd gen 4Runners all use the ABS system to drive the speedo. If you are keeping the ABS system, no worries on missing out on speedo drive on the transfer case.

-Charlie
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Thanks for verifying that. So the only downside of keeping it shorter would be if I SAS it in the future. Or just get the longer speedo housing and plug the VSS port for now. That leaves the option of solid axle in the future. I need to get some real numbers and see if 2 inches of added length would be a big deal. I'm probably not SASing but I also probably wasn't gonna crawl box it. Lol
 
I would do your best to decide what length you want now. If you change it later there's a chance you'll have to modify your driveshaft length. Maybe not, but it's a pain if you do.
 
What is overall length of our stock cases? I’m sure there are different lengths for the different cases available and possibly different for manual and auto trans.
 
AssBurns said:
What is overall length of our stock cases? I’m sure there are different lengths for the different cases available and possibly different for manual and auto trans.
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I'm about 10000 miles away from my rig currently or I'd go measure mine. Lol

I'm more interested in the overall length of a crawl box/adapters/stock case but the stock case length would be a good starting point.

I can't believe I'm actually seriously considering this. It's still my wife's DD but I just got permission to have it down for 2 weeks in July. She'll be out of town. So if this happens it's gotta happen fast.
 
I was only a few steps away so I went ahead and measured. Transmission/t-case mounting surface to driveshaft flange is about 20.75” on my multimode t-case. I wonder what the total length would be for an adapter and Altas 4 would be. [emoji848]

EDIT: Got bored and started searching some more. Here i what I found.

Toyota Tacoma Tranmission to Atlas transfer case Adapter Kit (23 spline) (#50-5710)

The adapter plate is only .375"

Atlas 4 Speed Transfer Case Builder (#Atlas4)

LENGTH COMPARISON: *Atlas Short tailhousing is 16.75" *Atlas Long tailhousing is 18.75"


So even with the long tailhousing, the overall length is still shorter than the multimode t-case. Great if you keep your IFS but could pose a problem for SAS rigs due to a shorter front driveshaft?
 
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The case is 16.5" w/no speedo tail housing and 18.5" with a speedo housing. The adapter plate is 3/8". Now I need to figure out the front and rear flange depths. That will be a call to Atlas. I also have the standard j shift transfer case which may be shorter. I'll measure when I'm back home Sunday.

It looks like it'll work but I need to make damn sure. I might end up going cheap(er) and building a dual case but I might not. Lol
 
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Looks like I'm passing on the Atlas 4. After much research, to be able to clock it high enough to be above the crossmember, you need to do a ton of floor board cutting. Enough that it takes out the stock seat mount. Add that to the front driveshaft angle getting way steep(good call [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION]) it's just not something I want to invest the cash in.

So that leaves the me looking for more input from guys running dual cases. It also leaves me looking for something used and built. If anyone has a line on one let me know. In the meantime I'll keep on with the research and scouring the classifieds. lol
 
theesotericone said:
Looks like I'm passing on the Atlas 4. After much research, to be able to clock it high enough to be above the crossmember, you need to do a ton of floor board cutting. Enough that it takes out the stock seat mount. Add that to the front driveshaft angle getting way steep(good call [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION]) it's just not something I want to invest the cash in.

So that leaves the me looking for more input from guys running dual cases. It also leaves me looking for something used and built. If anyone has a line on one let me know. In the meantime I'll keep on with the research and scouring the classifieds. lol
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Just get a trailgear dual case kit, way cheaper then an atlas. It would be easiest to do the sas at the same time,
Also raddesigns triple shift kit will allow you to not cut up the floorboard/ center counsel as much.


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snow junky said:
Just get a trailgear dual case kit, way cheaper then an atlas. It would be easiest to do the sas at the same time,
Also raddesigns triple shift kit will allow you to not cut up the floorboard/ center counsel as much.
Click to expand...


I'm not SASing this rig. I'm still looking into Marlin, Inchworm, and TG as options. I'll make the calls to everyone before I actually pull the trigger on any of it. I'm also planning to Tom Woods shafts for both front and rear. It's not going to be cheap and I realize that. Saving a couple hundred isn't what I'm going for but I'm also not opposed to it. lol

I'm set on running a 4.7/2.28 set-up. There's a few ways to achieve at and the cheapest by far is to put the 4.7 in the front reduction case. The other is to get a built case with 4.7's in the rear. Everyone likes to say that it's better to have the 4.7's in the rear to reduce stresses on the input shaft. So who has heard of anyone running 4.7 in front that has blown the input shaft? I've see a lot of guys that wheel hard and run 4.7 in front without issues.

I also need to call ECGS. They have the the Trail Creeper kit, 4.7's gear sets, and used reduction boxes. Since they'll be building my locked thirds I want to get a number for them to also build and ship the reduction box. Kit and gears is just shy of 1000. Add the "core" and there time to build it with the 4.7's. That will be as close to bolt on as I can get. I think they might eat some of the cost since I'm already buying the lockers/gears from them but who knows.
 
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] Why not just go with the atlas and ditch the stock seat mount and make new ones? What’s another few hours when you are already that far into a project? If you are keeping it IFS, then the driveshaft angle won’t be that bad.
 
AssBurns said:
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] Why not just go with the atlas and ditch the stock seat mount and make new ones? What’s another few hours when you are already that far into a project? If you are keeping it IFS, then the driveshaft angle won’t be that bad.
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That's a good question.

The answer is time and fear.

Time: I will only have two weekend to get this done. That includes dropping in and wiring the lockers. It's way to close as it is without adding any other fab work.

Fear. Dropping 4 grand on an unknown is a huge thing to accept. If I had more time and a full fab shop at my disposal I'd be happy to do it. I have neither of those.

A 4.7/2.28 set-up has very close to the same crawl ratio as the Atlas.
Lots of guys have them so the research is easier to do.
The only real advantages of the Atlas are strength and the ability to do front digs when needed. Those aren't worth the trade-off in both time and money to make the Atlas a reality.
 
theesotericone said:
That's a good question.



The answer is time and fear.



Time: I will only have two weekend to get this done. That includes dropping in and wiring the lockers. It's way to close as it is without adding any other fab work.



Fear. Dropping 4 grand on an unknown is a huge thing to accept. If I had more time and a full fab shop at my disposal I'd be happy to do it. I have neither of those.



A 4.7/2.28 set-up has very close to the same crawl ratio as the Atlas.

Lots of guys have them so the research is easier to do.

The only real advantages of the Atlas are strength and the ability to do front digs when needed. Those aren't worth the trade-off in both time and money to make the Atlas a reality.
Click to expand...



Can’t put 4.7s in the rear chain case. Just the front gear reduction box.
I have a 4banger with 37s and the dual 2.28 are perfect gearing for me. Not too low or too high. don’t forget about the dual case crossmember too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I got a few calls made today.

Marlin is out of adapters and has an no firm date when they'll be back in. They're gonna call me when there back in stock. Total price for the built Tacobox is $2100.

I also called Low Range Off Road. They are no longer supplying Inchworm so that's out. They have switched over to trail gear. Total price for a built trail gear crawler box $1900.

Both those boxes come with 4.7 in the crawler. Martin assured me it's not an issue with the rear chain drive case. They've got a lot of years behind them so I trust that to be true. Plus it's the final crawl ratio I want.

I also placed a call to Davez Off Road and left a message.

I still need to call ECGS and get a quote for them to build a Trail Gear crawl box.

As it looks currently TG is gonna win by default. Unless someone has a Tacobox laying around they want to unload.

The other option is to get TG adapters and a junkyard case and just go 2.28 in front. I could also get the gears to go 4.7 for another $600 but by that time the price is already close to what a built box would be.

If anyone sees a used crawl box please link if for me here.
Thanks
 
Tried to find info and I think I know the answer - but what happens if you do a dual-case on a 2001/2002? I am assuming that you have to grab a chain-driven J-shift tcase. Just want to confirm
 
A dual case multi-mode has been done. Other than the extra length of the multi-mode, there isn't any reason why it wouldn't work.

-Charlie
 
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