Dumbest question on the forum…….

djmedik91

New member
But I gotta ask anyways to be sure. Aren't the alternators on a 97 Runner the same as a 2001 Tacoma? Both are 3.4L
 
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Haha I can guarantee you dumber questions have been asked here. If I recall correctly they are one in the same I haven't messed with any in a while though
 
I mean it would only make sense right? Both 3.4L, same engine number, but when I looked up a general search on the web, I noticed that the alternators have different part numbers.

Just wanting to make sure since I have the opportunity to pick up a high output alternator for a 3.4L Tacoma and want to make sure it fits. I think there should be a poll on the dumbest questions asked on this forum…….LOL
 
I mean it would only make sense right? Both 3.4L, same engine number, but when I looked up a general search on the web, I noticed that the alternators have different part numbers.

Just wanting to make sure since I have the opportunity to pick up a high output alternator for a 3.4L Tacoma and want to make sure it fits. I think there should be a poll on the dumbest questions asked on this forum…….LOL

DC Metro area eh? Nice. Where did you happen to find a high output alternator? I am sick of my headlights dimming at night when I roll up the windows
 
DC Metro area eh? Nice. Where did you happen to find a high output alternator? I am sick of my headlights dimming at night when I roll up the windows

Well it was DC Metro. After my ex decided to hoe herself out, I moved to Charles Town. Helluva lot cheaper to live here.

Yeah, I need a new alternator since my amp draws so much power. Runner would read 14 volts at the amp while running, but would drop to the 9's when the bass would hit and the amp would cut off. So, I'm stuck with lowering the gains for the time being. Still hits hard as hell, but this amp is not getting the juice she needs.

I'm looking at an Iraggi 220A alternator.....
 
Well it was DC Metro. After my ex decided to hoe herself out, I moved to Charles Town. Helluva lot cheaper to live here.

Yeah, I need a new alternator since my amp draws so much power. Runner would read 14 volts at the amp while running, but would drop to the 9's when the bass would hit and the amp would cut off. So, I'm stuck with lowering the gains for the time being. Still hits hard as hell, but this amp is not getting the juice she needs.

I'm looking at an Iraggi 220A alternator.....

This may be a "Dumb" response to your "dumb question" but do you have a capacitor setup on your amp? This won't solve the problem but sure helps that sudden draw on the alternator.
 
This may be a "Dumb" response to your "dumb question" but do you have a capacitor setup on your amp? This won't solve the problem but sure helps that sudden draw on the alternator.

Not yet. I just got the amp last week. I'm going to wait and see how well the high output alternator is going to do, and then explore either caps or batts if need be.
 
Not yet. I just got the amp last week. I'm going to wait and see how well the high output alternator is going to do, and then explore either caps or batts if need be.

How well is your ground setup? You can eliminate dimming problems from voltage drops if your ground matches your power cable. Well, not always, but for most non-competition setups. Just throwing it out there because it's commonly overlooked. How much does your amp draw?

Kelly: You almost definitely fall into this category if your lights dim from rolling up a window. You can replace your factory ground cable too assuming the amp ground is setup properly.
 
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Not yet. I just got the amp last week. I'm going to wait and see how well the high output alternator is going to do, and then explore either caps or batts if need be.


You need a capacitor before you need the high output alternator. You actually need both because you are running a 3000w amp. You should be running at least a 3 farad capacitor. (Rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1k watts) But I would get the capacitor first before the alternator.

The capacitor stores energy for immediate discharge such as what your amp is doing due to the sub. If it doesn't get it... it tries and therefore starves for power, causing dimming and poor sound quality.

Here are a few quick articles you should read up on.

Car Audio Capacitors - Why You Can't Do Without Them

Car Audio Capacitor

Car Audio Advice Terminology And Education | Capacitors


p.s. If you decide to install yourself BE CAREFUL a capacitor stores energy even when it's not connected to a power source and if you aren't careful you WILL get hurt!

Good luck.
 
Not a dumb question, this is Toyota we are talking about, they are like the Fords of foreign cars when it comes to parts interchangeability. They have a good share of oddball parts that only fit one car. If I'm not mistaken isn't the bolt pattern for the door speakers unique to Toyotas? Why the heck would they design them like that?
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I went ahead and scooped up an Iraggi 220A. I'm pretty sure it’s a GM CS-144 alternator but rewound with higher amps. It's new, never been used and supposedly does 150A at idle and 220A at full tilt (wherever that may be). I've heard mixed reviews about Iraggi but I figured you can't please everybody and I'll give it a shot. Plus, I think I got a good deal on it. It was supposed to go into a Taco, but the Taco was totaled and the guy just wanted to get rid of it.

The amp requires a 300A fuse, so a cap or additional battery would probably be in my future. I'll probably size up on the cap just to be sure. Apparently, on the right electrical, this amp will do over 3000 watts. But I figured I would start from the front and work my way back (probably saving my new battery in the long run).
 
Unfortunately your new alternator at full power will still not cover your amp draw at full power (not even close). I would seriously consider a dual battery setup, a step down on the amp, or wire it so it can't perform at top end. Personally I don't think caps live up to the hype and there are better alternatives to spend your money on. I would definitely like to know your opinion when you drop in the new alternator though. What did you pay?
 
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put in a odyssey batter 1700mjt on the stock location, then upgrade the wires to the alt and ground and the battery with 1 guage wires. and no need for caps, i had no dimming at all with this set up on my 96 base, and since my base got wreck i did the same to my 07 and it still works fine.
 
Congrats on the new alt. Your gonna like it.

Your definitely going to need to run multiple "good" batteries if you plan on getting the most out of that amp.
 
Thanks! I ended up dishing out $200(shipping included) for the alternator, and it's never been installed. I did do some research into going to a larger capacity alternator, but from what I have heard, you can actually lose amps at idle. They will still put out what they are rated for, but at a higher RPM range. I might have that info wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's what I read.

I also looked at running multiple alternators, but there don't seem to be any kits, and I'm not exactly a "fabricator" (one of the reasons I have yet to perform the projector retrofit).

And if this alternator doesn't perform, I can always sell it and take the next step up. Maybe by then, the Runners might have multiple alternator kits. Hell, who am I kidding, but at least I've got something to dream about other than Megan Fox......
 
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I agree on running multiple Batteries, also, when giving "demos" bring up the RPM of the motor to around 1500, it will give you al little more juice out of that Alt.

Oh and please tell me you are running at least 0 guage wire to the amp?
 
I agree on running multiple Batteries, also, when giving "demos" bring up the RPM of the motor to around 1500, it will give you al little more juice out of that Alt.

Oh and please tell me you are running at least 0 guage wire to the amp?

He might even want to run multiple runs of 0 gauge.
 

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