e locker axle housing vs non e locker axle housing

HiluxSurfGuy

New member
I am in the process of swapping out my non e-locker axle assembly/ housing and putting in an axle that had an e locker from factory. So essentially a full axle swap ending with a locked diff.

Question is, is there any differences (other than the notched pumpkin for the actuator and the different stud arrangement) between an elocker and non elocker assembly? I am about to go buy a whole bunch of OEM bearings and axle seals and I would hate to get the wrong ones.

My assumption is that the axle itself will be the same other than the diff housing but please please please correct me if I'm wrong.


Thanks!


Here's the truck
13703205_149701455461119_1590032457_n.jpg
 
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If you're buying OEM seals and other parts you'll notice that there aren't different part numbers for locker vs non-locker. If there are differences you'll find different part numbers and you will be prompted to select whether it's a locked axle or not.
 
There's no difference on the end of the axles.. All the outer components are exactly the same. The only difference I believe are the internals of the diff housing. The carrier bearing is larger on the elocker (I think). Which doesn't really matter for your situation.
 
Just make sure it's an ABS housing with an ABS axel, otherwise you need a custom axel seal to pair a non-ABS axel
 
Bringing back the old

Just make sure it's an ABS housing with an ABS axel, otherwise you need a custom axel seal to pair a non-ABS axel

Thanks [MENTION=58830]JWaldz[/MENTION] for the information already provided.

So I have been trying to find something on this and your comment is the only discussion I have been able to find. I have not found anything in the service manuals.

I am planning on retrofitting an elocker into my 2001 w/ abs and trac w/ 4:10s. I have only found non-abs, 4:30 axles (for a really good deal) in my area. And before you answer questions not asked, I am swapping in a 4:30 front diff. and not paying an extra $300 for abs locked axle. Trying to use parts on hand from both axles to accomplish this project.

Questions:

1)Is it possible to do the swap and if so what modifications / parts swapped will need to be done to add abs to new axle to retain abs and trac?

2)If 1 is not, is it possible to just swap the 3rd member and ring & pinion from non-abs axle into mine and just modify the housing for the locker?
 
A couple of things. First for the rear its going to be easier to keep your original housing and axles and only change out the pumpkin. Trying to go from abs to no abs is going to be harder. Plus the sensors for the trac are different than plain abs For the front diff, If my memory serves me correctly(and a lot of times it doesn't ) the year is important in how it actuates. I really hope someone else can verify this
 
[MENTION=92413]YouInTheShirt[/MENTION]

Not to say that modification isn't possible to add ABS stuff to a non ABS housing but it's not worth the work.

The better option in this case is to retrofit the elocker 3rd member (diff/pumpkin) in your non elocker housing that already has ABS. Documentation has been done on this.

The BEST option is to wait and find a rear elocker housing with ABS so that it's literally a 'plug-n-play' scenario.

An elocker 3rd member will be the same no matter if it's from an ABS housing or not.
 
[MENTION=92413]YouInTheShirt[/MENTION]

Not to say that modification isn't possible to add ABS stuff to a non ABS housing but it's not worth the work.

The better option in this case is to retrofit the elocker 3rd member (diff/pumpkin) in your non elocker housing that already has ABS. Documentation has been done on this.

The BEST option is to wait and find a rear elocker housing with ABS so that it's literally a 'plug-n-play' scenario.

An elocker 3rd member will be the same no matter if it's from an ABS housing or not.

Ya so after we talked a couple weeks back I went and picked up that 4:30 locked axle and harness for $250 and now trying to find the best route. Lol. Out riding around the Ouchita Forest but will start tackling the locker project when I get back. Thanks again for the info.
 
Bringing up an old thread here but had a question. I have an e locker rear end that needs to be changed. Toyota has discontinued the elocker rear end. But has the rear end without locking diff. Can the third member be swapped from my locking diff to the new non locking rear end? Changing it out due to accident.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 
Bringing up an old thread here but had a question. I have an e locker rear end that needs to be changed. Toyota has discontinued the elocker rear end. But has the rear end without locking diff. Can the third member be swapped from my locking diff to the new non locking rear end? Changing it out due to accident.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Your e-locked third member will not fit into the non-locking rear end without some work. There is a notch on the e-locker rear end (see pic below). It is possible to cut out a notch on a non-locking rear end, but I would not advise to do that. More complications going that route, and there is possibility of creating a leak if not cut correctly.

It is far easier to find a locked rear end housing. Call around local salvage yard and also make a WTB in the classifieds for one. And, I actually do have one as well. Located in Kansas City. Would let it go cheap.


These rear ends actually pertain to the Land Cruiser locker setup, but it gives you a general idea of the difference including the notch I was referring to:
d808a54d-ecba-4a85-a6eb-9b6784edb7d8-jpeg.2004516
 
Last edited:
Your e-locked third member will not fit into the non-locking rear end without some work. There is a notch on the e-locker rear end (see pic below). It is possible to cut out a notch on a non-locking rear end, but I would not advise to do that. More complications going that route, and there is possibility of creating a leak if not cut correctly.

It is far easier to find a locked rear end housing. Call around local salvage yard and also make a WTB in the classifieds for one. And, I actually do have one as well. Located in Kansas City. Would let it go cheap.


These rear ends actually pertain to the Land Cruiser locker setup, but it gives you a general idea of the difference including the notch I was referring to:
d808a54d-ecba-4a85-a6eb-9b6784edb7d8-jpeg.2004516


this is 100% correct, different housing...the stock non e locker can be cut and modifeid...but cuts grinds and studs etc have to be right on the money.
 
Your e-locked third member will not fit into the non-locking rear end without some work. There is a notch on the e-locker rear end (see pic below). It is possible to cut out a notch on a non-locking rear end, but I would not advise to do that. More complications going that route, and there is possibility of creating a leak if not cut correctly.

It is far easier to find a locked rear end housing. Call around local salvage yard and also make a WTB in the classifieds for one. And, I actually do have one as well. Located in Kansas City. Would let it go cheap.


These rear ends actually pertain to the Land Cruiser locker setup, but it gives you a general idea of the difference including the notch I was referring to:
d808a54d-ecba-4a85-a6eb-9b6784edb7d8-jpeg.2004516
Very awesome explanation thank you!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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