E-Locker Bench Testing Dilemna

[xcmtb83]

I have a complete drum to drum e-locker axle that I picked up about a year ago. Last winter I took it apart to inspect gears and to inspect the corrosion prone aluminum piece on the back of the actuator. Before I took it apart I tested the unit with a 9V battery just by reversing the polarity of the green and green/red wires multiple times and everything checked out. I seen no reason to open a can of worms by taking the actuator apart once I had it off of the axle.

Fast forward to tonight. Over the last few weeks cleaned, removed rust, removed the small amount of corrosion on the aluminum and have painted all parts. I got everything assembled EXCEPT the axles and began testing. It wasn't until it quite working that I installed the axles.

My extra 12V battery I decided to use only had about 6V so the actuator would not function. I then threw a battery charger on the battery while testing the actuator and wallah it worked a few times. I could get it to rotate and then it would auto shutoff (like it should). So I reversed the polarity and did this several times. Then it quite working for no apparent reason. I must have tried it another half a dozen times before throwing in the towel. I never left the leads connected for more than a couple of seconds when it quite working. The alligator clips were arcing so there was definitely current flowing. I could also hear a very quiet (barely detectable) click while making contact with the 12V once it quite working.

FYI - To the best of my knowledge neither the rack or the gear have changed positions since I dissembled. I mention this because I thought people have had problems with these getting moved and not working correctly afterwards.

FYI - It is currently unlocked.

Do I need the axles installed to test?

Do I need to tear it all apart and clean it?

Did I damage/cook any electrical components?

Please share your thoughts and or recommendations.

Sorry for the windy post but I don't want to leave any info out that may be useful.

 

[GhostRing]

I cannot help you, but thank you for being one of the few people left who spell dilemna with an "n".

 

[Jon]

I hope it's just your battery. I did the same test with everything installed in my truck with my kids power wheels battery and I was able to actuate the locker at least 5 times in both directions with no issues. Turns out the reason my locker was not engaging was a bad connection right there at the axle where I disconnected to do this test. Plugged it back up and my problem was fixed.

Now like any electrical motor, if the magnets are dirty or corroded it's capability to work is compromised. You may need to disassemble the actuator motor and thoroughly clean it. I had to do this with all of my seat motors after a slight sink in salt water. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/79996-wanna-fix-buster-power-seat-rear-heat-fan-motor.html But of course either charge the test battery or just hook it to a vehicle installed batt and test it again.

Good luck man.

 

[xcmtb83]

Once I threw the battery on the charger it then had enough voltage to make the actuator function. Initially the lack of voltage was my problem but now I am afraid it is something else.

 

[shootmymime]

could you have rotated the pinion and caused it to mis align? i know it takes a few turnes of the wheels for mine to fully engage.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

could you have rotated the pinion and caused it to mis align? i know it takes a few turnes of the wheels for mine to fully engage.

This is what I initailly thought also, however I am no expert (at all) on trying to bypass the factory harness to test. I've only worked on my Dad's PreRunner, when it was acting up and not engaging. I couldn't figure out the problem till I took it to a mechanic buddy who said the actuator had gotten damaged.

 

[Dous]

Try tapping it lightly with a hammer while you are trying to engage it

 

[Singtoe]

You really need axles in the housing to test it. You can spin the axle see if the locker is engaging.

There is a cog that has straight splines that need to be in alignment before engages.

 

[xcmtb83]

Have I possibly "over travelled" something due to lack of axles when first testing lastnight? If that is even a possibility I would now have to reset the gear or rack I am guessing? The first noises that it made sounded just like a normally funtioning locker. Could friction be the issue due to minimal gear oil? I did drain it last winter before dissassembly.

 

[xcmtb83]

Update after tearing into the actuator tonight...

In my haste to keep this project moving I completely ignored the fact that the motor needs more circuitry than just the 12V I was providing on the green and green/red wires, duh. The "autoshutoff" feature will not work without additional circuitry so it gets bound up. I believe the motor quit functioning because it loaded the torsion spring/buffer spring so much that it couldn't generate the force required to reverse it (this is just my theory please poke holes if needed). I think the motor continued to apply torque to the spring and loaded it up...kinetic vs static energy blah blah. Apparently the few times that I did have it working I must have applied power just long enough to lock and unlock and not over travel i.e. load the spring up.

Yesterday and last night I was worried that I might have done permanent damage so this is good to find out even if it was a brain fart.

So the next step is wiring up a DPDL relay in conjunction with the factory switch so the very last step is axle install.

Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[superman3043]

Any update on the condition of your motor? I'm working through troubleshooting mine and I feel like I've may have done the same thing that you were theorizing here.

 

[xcmtb83]

It is installed and working perfectly. Are you doing a complete retrofit or is your locker factory?

 

[superman3043]

It is installed and working perfectly. Are you doing a complete retrofit or is your locker factory?

Yeah I retrofitted an FJC locker. Bought a harness from offroad solutions instead of wiring it myself and it locked once and never worked again. His harness is a 3 relay setup. First I thought it was the fuse, which indeed had blown, but putting a new one in didn't fix it. I'm going to bench test the motor in the morning to see if its still ok. I fear the harness burned it up. If it's the motor, I'll attempt a rebuild before buying a new one. If it's not the motor, I'll have to troubleshoot the harness.

 

[superman3043]

Got it figured out over the weekend. Thanks